VQ Oil Analysis and Info
03-22-2008, 10:57 PM
#441
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Originally Posted by Resolute
I would say most engines break-in faster than 15k miles. In fact, I would not usually expect my own engine to be in the break-in process beyond 2k miles. However, not all engines are the same and some will take longer than others. A UOA is good to show if the engine is still breaking-in or is having difficulty with break-in.
If I was on my other computer, I would find and post that article. I'll put it up later this week.
Will
If I was on my other computer, I would find and post that article. I'll put it up later this week.
Will
Post up the article when you can, thanks again!
Cheers
-Curtis
03-22-2008, 11:33 PM
#442
*****UPDATE 3.22.08********
Changed some of the Q&A responses to help clarity. I removed the recommended oils, because I don't have the time to keep updating the list as oil chemistries change. I have not updated the UOA comparison charts on the first page. Yet. I'm working on it and will have it done soon, with the new UOA's added along with a running count of the number of samples for each oil tested.
Will
Changed some of the Q&A responses to help clarity. I removed the recommended oils, because I don't have the time to keep updating the list as oil chemistries change. I have not updated the UOA comparison charts on the first page. Yet. I'm working on it and will have it done soon, with the new UOA's added along with a running count of the number of samples for each oil tested.
Will
03-23-2008, 05:33 PM
#443
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Originally Posted by Resolute
The lead is most likely from your bearings and the high Fe and Chromium indicate upper cylinder wear. The oil itself is still in grade and there is no indication of fuel dilution for this sample. The biggest factor contributing to wear is the lack of oil in your crankcase. Having only half the volume of oil is a big issue, as the low volume inhibits the oil's capacity for suspension and consistent flow. Upper cylinder wear is only going to make oil consumption worse with blow-by.
Keep a better eye on your oil level in the future, and try another oil. M1 5W-30 has never impressed me, and the high price doesn't give high results. If you like M1, then the 0W-40 seems the best way to go. Otherwise, I would give Valvoline 5W-30 high milage a shot, Rotella T-Syn, or German Castrol 0W-30. Get another UOA with any of these while maintaining decent oil level, and a new UOA done to see how the wear stacks against this sample.
And try a better air filter. Is yours old, or a K&N type? They seem to flow more air, but not filter as well.
Will
Keep a better eye on your oil level in the future, and try another oil. M1 5W-30 has never impressed me, and the high price doesn't give high results. If you like M1, then the 0W-40 seems the best way to go. Otherwise, I would give Valvoline 5W-30 high milage a shot, Rotella T-Syn, or German Castrol 0W-30. Get another UOA with any of these while maintaining decent oil level, and a new UOA done to see how the wear stacks against this sample.
And try a better air filter. Is yours old, or a K&N type? They seem to flow more air, but not filter as well.
Will
Last edited by Puppetmaster; 03-23-2008 at 05:37 PM.
03-23-2008, 05:58 PM
#444
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
Thanks for the feedback, Will. That was my guess too, that it was partly my carelessness and partly the M1 - I'll def be monitoring the oil level better this time (honestly, this was the first time I've burnt this much oil). I've switched to Castrol GTX 5W30 for now, and will shorten the oil change interval to about 3000-3500 miles. I'll post the UOA results when I get them. I do have a K&N filter, haha, unsurprisingly I guess. Thanks again.
Will
03-26-2008, 02:50 PM
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Shell Rotella T 5w40 Synthetic (new bottle) VOA
For those interested in newest Rotella T Syn.
Last edited by Nederlander75; 03-27-2008 at 10:11 AM.
when did they change the formula? Is it still in the Blue bottles?
03-26-2008, 07:04 PM
#447
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Still in the blue bottles, but now triple protection versus heavy duty. Bottle is now that funky Sopus top and side handle and smells like gear oil, sulphur.
03-29-2008, 08:04 AM
#448
Wow, healthy amount of ZDDP in it, and not much else. No Moly, Mg, same levels of Ca. The base stock is good, I'm curious to see the UOA on mine with all the abuse it's taken. I didn't mean to keep running it for a whole year, but it will be interesting to see how it held up.
Will
Will
04-03-2008, 05:20 AM
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resolute, do you have any information about the amsoil 5w40 european car formula? It is recommended for my 300zx as it's turbocharged so I was considering switching to it for my 300zx and 350z since both are twin turbo.
04-03-2008, 07:22 AM
#450
Originally Posted by merlin3
resolute, do you have any information about the amsoil 5w40 european car formula? It is recommended for my 300zx as it's turbocharged so I was considering switching to it for my 300zx and 350z since both are twin turbo.
Will
04-03-2008, 07:51 AM
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hmm, decisions decisions. The castrol european oil is now made in the usa so it's not the same correct? I currently have amsoil tso 2000 in my 350 as it's still stock block but twin turbo. I am not sure if there's anything out there that's better but it's time for an oil change. Also my 300zx(vg30dett) is ready for an oil change and currently has mobil 1 5w30 synthetic I think.
04-03-2008, 08:01 AM
#452
Originally Posted by merlin3
hmm, decisions decisions. The castrol european oil is now made in the usa so it's not the same correct? I currently have amsoil tso 2000 in my 350 as it's still stock block but twin turbo. I am not sure if there's anything out there that's better but it's time for an oil change. Also my 300zx(vg30dett) is ready for an oil change and currently has mobil 1 5w30 synthetic I think.
As far as what to use in your TT 350Z, just get a UOA done on whatever oil you like and see how it holds up. It would be easier to work from there, rather than just guessing or going with other people's popular choice.
Will
04-03-2008, 08:05 AM
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ok, well the european formula that i've looked at locally says made in like new jersey or something. I'll see what I can find. I guess I'm not too concerned about my 350 as the engine will be getting built sometime soon.
04-03-2008, 02:38 PM
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Amsoil 5w40 Euro Formula
There is one UOA on this on BITOG from an 05 Alti SE. Did well considering the fuel dilution from the owner's mod causing the ECU to run rich and may have out performed the TSO/SSO had the fuel issue not been there. If you like I will paste in a link.
04-04-2008, 11:56 PM
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I was researching on the Amsoil TSO oil, but they are discontinued, and has been replaced with SSO 0w-30. Has anyone used that before? Is it the same as TSO?
If i plan to change oil every 3000 miles, would PP 10w-30 be as good as TSO on my 05 non revup w/ 30000 miles? I just got it, and don't even know what kind of oil it's running now, wait to change it this weekend!!
If i plan to change oil every 3000 miles, would PP 10w-30 be as good as TSO on my 05 non revup w/ 30000 miles? I just got it, and don't even know what kind of oil it's running now, wait to change it this weekend!!
04-05-2008, 07:16 AM
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Originally Posted by djl601
I was researching on the Amsoil TSO oil, but they are discontinued, and has been replaced with SSO 0w-30. Has anyone used that before? Is it the same as TSO?
If i plan to change oil every 3000 miles, would PP 10w-30 be as good as TSO on my 05 non revup w/ 30000 miles? I just got it, and don't even know what kind of oil it's running now, wait to change it this weekend!!
If i plan to change oil every 3000 miles, would PP 10w-30 be as good as TSO on my 05 non revup w/ 30000 miles? I just got it, and don't even know what kind of oil it's running now, wait to change it this weekend!!
04-07-2008, 05:13 PM
#458
I just got another UOA back from Blackstone. It is another anaylsis using the Rotella T-Synthetic 5W40. For those that don't know, I am running a stock motor revup engine with a greddy TT kit on it. This engine has had a 100 nitrous shot on it for about a year, then a Turbonetics Single turbo for about 6 months, and currently the greddy twins now for over a year (about 20,000 miles of TT use and abuse.)
I find it interesting to see how long the lead from a single tank of race gas is still showing up in the UOA. Also, the Rotella that I am running has no molybdenum in it, so the moly must be residuals from when I ran Motul 300V in the motor.
Anyways, here's the results:
I find it interesting to see how long the lead from a single tank of race gas is still showing up in the UOA. Also, the Rotella that I am running has no molybdenum in it, so the moly must be residuals from when I ran Motul 300V in the motor.
Anyways, here's the results:
04-07-2008, 05:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Resolute
Look on the back of the bottle, since all the Castrol Syntec 0W-30 around here still says "Made in Germany" on the back label. It was gone for a few years, but Auto Zone seems to be bringing it back.
As far as what to use in your TT 350Z, just get a UOA done on whatever oil you like and see how it holds up. It would be easier to work from there, rather than just guessing or going with other people's popular choice.
Will
As far as what to use in your TT 350Z, just get a UOA done on whatever oil you like and see how it holds up. It would be easier to work from there, rather than just guessing or going with other people's popular choice.
Will
04-08-2008, 08:37 AM
#460
Originally Posted by QuadCam
I just got another UOA back from Blackstone. It is another anaylsis using the Rotella T-Synthetic 5W40. For those that don't know, I am running a stock motor revup engine with a greddy TT kit on it. This engine has had a 100 nitrous shot on it for about a year, then a Turbonetics Single turbo for about 6 months, and currently the greddy twins now for over a year (about 20,000 miles of TT use and abuse.)
I find it interesting to see how long the lead from a single tank of race gas is still showing up in the UOA. Also, the Rotella that I am running has no molybdenum in it, so the moly must be residuals from when I ran Motul 300V in the motor.
Anyways, here's the results:
I find it interesting to see how long the lead from a single tank of race gas is still showing up in the UOA. Also, the Rotella that I am running has no molybdenum in it, so the moly must be residuals from when I ran Motul 300V in the motor.
Anyways, here's the results:
Your engine wear looks really good, especially for a TT engine. Was the T-Syn used last time as well? I am guessing the first sample you have in the UOA is the 300V. The T-Syn really holds up well for TT engines, considering this sample didn't shear out of grade, kept wear metals low, and handles fuel dilution (a problem in FI engines) like a champ. It might be the best "bang for your buck" oil for the FI crowd.
Thanks for posting your results!
Will