shushikiary

here is the shaeffers 7000 5w30 with 5000 miles on it in the Z:



TBN was a little low after 5000 miles, but the wear materiels where as good if not better than the AMSOIL at 4000 miles. I think I'm just going to make a large order of shaeffers (say 5 12 quart boxes or something) and just run off it for a long time.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

I don't have any recommendations on oil filters. I don't like the PureOne because the filter media seems to restrict flow in some tests done by users, whereby the bypass opens and the oil doesn't get filtered. I can't say that these tests are credible enough to not recommend the PureOne, and I wouldn't tell someone it's an issue if they like to buy that filter. I just have my suspicions, and so I don't use it.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

The UOA results with GTX 5W-30 show excellent results for 3500 mile oil change intervals. There has not been a TBN test done on the GTX, so if you want to see if it can be extended, then have a TBN test done and see.

Will

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

Looks really good, like the other Schaeffers UOA samples. In fact, you are right in line with the others, within 1 to 3 ppm for the same wear metals with an extra 500 miles on the average result. This is a good oil, and if it's cheaper than the Amsoil TSO, then I'd say you've found a great oil to stick with. Your samples have always been interesting to see, so thanks for sharing them. Your Motul and Amsoil samples lined up with the averages from other engines, and it's been a good deal for everyone to see that expensive does not always equal the best.

Will

ZeeForce

Thanks, I will change it out at 3500mi, and will have a TBN test done along with a Dyson Analysis.

Mike Wazowski

iTrader: (113)

Got my UOA from the Nippon Eneos. Looks to be worst than the Valvoline High mileage Dino oil I used (lower TBN). As stated before, just because it cost more, doesnt mean it is better.

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

The TBN is very low for what Eneos bills as a fully synthetic oil. They use PAO basestocks, but I'm not sure what they blend them with for a carrier oil. If the TBN is this low, I would guess it's a G3 oil. If they used a G5 Ester or AN base oil with their PAO, the TBN would certainly be higher for such a short oil change interval. The low TBN is really surprising to me.

Of course, the low TBN is explained when you consider the oil viscosity when new is 14 cSt, and it is now only 11.6 centistokes. This oil sheared down to a thin 40wt oil. (it could actually be considered a thick 30wt now) This suggests that the grade is achieved through the use of a lot of viscosity index improvers rather than high viscosity base stocks. I would guess their VII's aren't very good, either, since the oil sheared under so little mileage. The shearing and depletion of the VII's is what tends to form the bulk of the acids that accumulate in an oil and form sludge, which lowers the TBN value.

Your wear metals aren't bad, but you're right, your Valvoline looks better. Even if the lead wear is a particle streak (although I don't think so because it really isn't out of line with the copper wear) the rest of the wear metals fared no better than, or worse, than your previous fill for similar mileage.

Maybe some of their other blends will fair better if people test them, or maybe we'll have some other people run this weight so we can see an average result, but so far, this oil doesn't look to be worth the money by a long shot. As it's been said, expensive and boutique oils do not always mean a better product.

Will

06CPV35

I know VQ's with OC issues not valid for consideration, but thought it would be interesting to show the results of a VQ with moderate OC issues.

Used Amsoil TSO with 4,846 service miles with adding 1qt around 2600mi, then when at 4800mi was another qt low and did not add.
This UOA represents only 4qts left in engine with 25K total on rev-up VQ35DE. OC has been the same since new.
I'm going back to a paper air filter and no more oiled cotton too.

2TH PWR

iTrader: (21)

Subscribing. Great read.

Nederlander75

This oil was very surprising considering its rep. Air filter was OEM and oil filter was a K&N. Silicon has remained level indicating that the intake system is sealed appropriately with no leaks and has ben certified as such by 2 dealers now. This oil was taken out at 30,530 on the car and 4,996 on the oil. Oil was installed in August and taken out in early January so it saw temps up to 90F and as low as 0F. Avg mpg dropped in this run to about 24.7 due to the last 1K miles of this run avg'g only 23, however, this may be due to low tire pressures. Shell 91 used the entire OCI. Average operational run is 25.5 miles that take about 20 to 30 minutes. The car sees redline about 4 times a week. Only blip I can see is Tin, all other wear is down considerably.

Iron 9
Chro 1
Lead 2
Copp 7
Tin 3
Alum 5
Nick 0
Silv 0
Sili 21
Boro 16
Sodi 0
Magn 861
Calc 2361
Bari 0
Phos 932
Zinc 990
Moly 139
Tita 0
Vana 0
Pota 0

Fuel <1%
Visc 9.88 cst@100C
Insol N/A
Water 0%
Coolant No
TBN 6.18

Resolute

iTrader: (2)

This is a different blend than every other RP 5W-30 we've seen.

Do you still have a bottle of this oil to check for a batch code? I am guessing RP changed their formula.

No other RP 5W-30 tested so far has any Mg, and this sample has 861 ppm. The Ca content is up by 300 ppm, and P and Zn are also increased. The TBN is about the same, and your RP 5W-30 didn't shear to a 20 weight oil like the other four samples.

Was this their XPR 5W-30 oil? This oil sure does have a whole lot more detergents and anti-wear/extreme pressure additives in it than the other RP 5W-30 samples we've seen.

It did well for you, not the best we've seen from the VQ, but it looks really good. It is also the first 30wt RP oil to stay in-grade. Silicon is really high, though. What is up with the gaskets in the Altima SE-R's batch of VQ's? You said it's common for this model?

Will

Nederlander75

Thanks for the reply Will.

I have 5 quarts yet, batch ICPR20K31603. Its the street 5w30. Like you said its a different formula. My Evo samples run about 25 Magn and about the same as you noted.

No idea on the intake sealing. Id be curious in comparing the desing of the Alti (Latitudinally installed VQs) to the Z's (Longitudinally installed VQs) to see if anything sticks out. Ive seen other Alti VQs reduce silicon with the Amsoil filters, but not to the levels you guys see in the Z's.

350zzzgunnar

Got a lot of Mobil1 5w-50 and wonder if anyone has a well-founded opinion if that's a good choise for my engine
Sorry if i missed the point in this thread but I found it today and hadn't tme to read it all.
Have Greddy TT's and building forged engine, not sleeved. It's not reddy to go, but I've purchased parts to go for 600rwhp.

SIR_pierre

how about QUAKER STATE SYNQUEST 10W-50 for a N/A engine that drives hard often

Nederlander75

Im not sure most people here see these oils. Being that you are Euro. I dont believe they can be sold as synthetic if they are less than group IV, therefore both should be good choices IMO.

If I were the one with the turbo config however, I would stay away from such a broad visc spread. If its your daily driver as well as your tuning toy, ok then. But Id change it more often and certainly have fresh oil in there before tracking it.

On an NA engine Id say the 10w50 might be overkill. A 40wt should do just fine and as you see on this site there are a few good 30wt choices. Fuchs is available in Svorge yes? They have a good 0w30 choice Im being told.

SIR_pierre

thanks for your answer == yes it might be overkill but just as long it aint bad for my motor so.

350zzzgunnar

Thanks a ton! Oils isn't part of my knowledge. So I'm depending on you guys or I'll stay in the dark What wiscose do you suggest for my FI setup? Is 50 too thick? As I got it the lower wisc is good when engine is cool and here we often have below 15 degrees celcius in summer mornings but can be lot higher during the day

Nederlander75

At that WHP output my personal opinion would be a 50wt oil just to be safe so you are in right direction.

At that temp during summer mornings thats about what we have here in Colorado, USA, where Im at most of the time. Sometimes colder, sometimes hotter. You are safe with a 10w, or 15w synthetic for certain Id say. Of course in winter you will need the 5w or even 0w, but could possibly get away with a 40wt such as 5w40 or 0w40. Hopefully some others here who know better correct me when where/if Im wrong.

My Evo thats kept in NL runs 10w30 year round, but isnt tuned to qutie where you are at. Last time it was dino'd it was sitting at 352whp. Not really a comparison, but for what its worth. It will shear 40wts down to 30's, but the 30wts stay in grade fine for the most part.

350zzzgunnar

Great answer
But what I don't get is why low wt oil might be a probem if it's not "that coold" if you know what I mean. Does the thinner oil not protect engine enough during the period of heating it up?

Nederlander75

It’s the Viscosity Index Improvers that pose the risk from what I understand and the broader the spread the more there are. A 5w50 is a spread of 45 versus a 15w50 that’s a spread of 35. The 5w50 requires more VI improvers to keep its viscosity at higher temps since its starting from a thinner base stock. Therefore, in my opinion if you are running the 5w50 these VI improvers will be sheared (torn) apart such that you will be sacrificing protection with prolonged use as your 5w50 may end up shearing to below a 40wt. In your application that loss of projection may be detrimental if not destructive on the track or if you are beating on the car. Conversely, I’ve heard that M1 15w50 and others may not contain any VI improvers making them much, much less prone to shear. So, you can get more life out of that oil and be safer on the track. You just need to ask yourself or figure out if you really need 50wt projection in winter. If not you may be able to live with a little shear or a 5w40.