Thanks Will for your input. May use the same two labs next time to see if the same variance in those areas, then decide which one to stay with. Agree with only using one lab to stay consistent on that end (apples to apples). I noticed fuel dilute and oxidation as well. Even nitrate and calcium large differences, but wanted to keep my previous post to a minimum.

Lab #2 flagged boron and molybdenum being lower than normal for Amsoil's ASL formulation. I do my own OCI's so know it was ASL used. Interesting. Makes me wonder last time their equip was calibrated and certified. Might send in a virgin sample along with my next used sample of ASL. Possibly a recent formulation change they're not aware of yet.

Appreciate your charts and input. Your efforts here are above stellar.

All the best to you in 2010.

-edit-
Oh boy, spent the better part of this AM searching and researching on lab result differences and why on BITOG, even on VOA's. Interesting...

 

Did you pay any attention to what I posted? These are the exact same UOA's that I just graphed out for you.

Not in Non-RevUp VQ engines they don't. Be my guest to prove your assumption. The collected and compared UOA's from VQ engines in this thread certainly don't support you.

None of Shushikiary's UOAs indicate a problematic air filter or break-in wear. His engine wear actually increased from his first UOA at 27k miles with Motul 300V to his next UOA at 33k miles with Motul 8100. Then, he switched to two oils with very good average results and had very good UOA results himself. The trend he saw is what is worth noting.

These are the only two UOAs with Motul I have from a stock engine. As I stated in the beginning of this thread, I do not collect or compare UOA results from built or FI engines. This is why the next UOA of 300V you found, from QuadCam's turbocharged 350Z, is not considered:

You claimed to have read this thread, or at least the posts where these UOAs are found, but you apparently overlooked that QuadCam is boosting his engine and my evaluation of his UOA, where I stated, "The 300V 5W40 has around 13ppm of silicon in it from the factory, so your filters are fine. The reading isn't high with this in mind." Here it is:
https://my350z.com/forum/4426057-post218.html

Interestingly enough, when he switched to T-Syn his wear metals also went down. Another improving trend as he switched from Motul 300V to an oil with better average results in the VQ. Because he is boosted, though, I didn't record his values for comparison.

Then why don't you just get one yourself?

Great. If you want to get a similar UOA then buy an Audi and use the same oil and see if your UOA is everything you want it to be. Don't compare UOAs from a completely different make and model of engine to the VQ and expect to see some correlation. This thread is for VQ used oil analysis, and not a collection of random engine UOAs, for a reason.

And? It has already been stated in this thread that the 8100 series use combinations of G3, PAO, and/or esters in various proportions for each viscosity and type of engine oil. It has also been beaten to death that focusing on the type and percentage of base oil isn't very productive.

I would love to see how you can prove it is "the best".

If you want to use Motul 300V, then do so. Have fun with it and enjoy the fact that you can buy it a whole lot cheaper than us Americans. Then, you can get your own UOA done and share the results. It will either confirm your good decision or support the idea that there is better oil for the money if you have a 350Z.

Will

 

Thanks for the kind words and support. I really appreciate it. As to lab results differences with UOAs, yeah.... interesting doesn't cover it. There is a reason plant lube experts take samples from multiple points in the lubrication stream. What we collect mid-stream from the pan is still going to have variance from one sample to another. Combine that with errors and natural deviations in lab tests from the same sample, and it gets even fuzzier. Hence, I stick with the same lab and don't focus on specific numbers. Trending is where it's at.

Will

 

Didn't want to be detailed and off topic here

That Sir wraps it up in a nutshell by using same lab all the time.

I learned a lot today, so today was a good one in my book. Until next time....

Cheers

 

This is my first UOA. I appreciate all the information Resolute.

I got this engine out of an 02 Maxima. It had 49K miles on it when I got it. I kept the rings alone, but installed new HR headgaskets, HR valve springs, cams, revup oil pump, and ARP rod bolts. As the cams broke in, I used cheap Pennzoil dino oil with a Lucas Break-In additive high in zinc for 1K miles. Then, I changed to M1 Synthetic Extended Performance 10w30.



After this analysis, I switched to GC 0w30. But since I get a top end rattle for a half second during every startup after sitting for more than 6 hours. I will be changing pretty soon. I currently have 3K miles on the GC. The top end rattle may be caused by the oil being too thin when it's cold. The 10w30 M1 never rattled since I assume the thicker oil stayed near the top of the engine for longer. My other theory is the oil filter I'm using. I bought a very old M1 oil filter that had the old M1 label. I'm not sure if the anti-drain back is working.

I plan on giving Amsoil SS 0w30 a shot for my next change. If the rattling on startup continues, I will be switching back to a 10w30 most likely. If anybody has any recommendations for me, please feel free to post.

I will be submitting another UOA for the GC when I drain it. I hope to see much lower Silicon numbers since the RTV should be done contaminating my oil. And my wear numbers should be much lower due to the shorter interval.

 

Here is my first UOA on Nissan Ester oil, still at work and haven't had a chance to reall compare to the other UOA's. What do you think, it appears Nissan is really using a lot of moly in this oil.

 

Aaron - One thing that jumps out to me is viscosity really got beat down during this OCI, probably due to the timing chain and racing. The noise might be due to the filter, but the 0W-30 GC is also likely thicker than the 10W-30 EP was. The TBN was good, but the viscosity was more like a 0W-20 oil at sample time.

Your flashpoint is on the edge, probably due to the trace of fuel, but I probably wouldn't push the mileage interval beyond 7500. Everything else looks fine given its history, and I wouldn't worry about the Si yet, which should be trending down.

Another oil to try if you want to stay with Mobil is their 0W-40 or high mileage 10W-30, both seem a bit more robust than the EP. The new Rotella T6 5W-40 also looks interesting if your engine likes a thicker oil.

 

Thanks for the info!

 

Got my sample back from Blackstone today. The aluminium and copper contents are a little worrying.
It has 3 track days on it.
I'm also running an oil cooler.

 

Stealership told me the oil was Castrol GTX synthetic. Went with Mobil 1 synthetic and will be doing another analysis to compare.

 

Will, I tried searching through the thread, but it's pretty long and the results didn't seem to get the answer I needed.

Anyway, I plan on just running Castrol GTX now in my 03 Z and my 08 G37. If I did an oil change at every 3500 miles and used a mobile 1 oil filter... would you recommend changing the oil filter every oil change... or could I get away with every other oil change?

Thanks, and I'm sorry b/c I'm sure a similar question has been asked...

 

Yeah, your Cu and Al are a bit off, and it suggests bearing wear. I have yet to see a UOA of Motul in the VQ that suggests it's worth what it costs, but that's not to say this UOA gives reason for concern. It's on the high side of wear, but nothing to really worry about. What this UOA really shows is that while nothing indicates that a change in oil brand is required, a change might get you even better results with less cost. Since you have access to a number of nice oils which we don't have here in the US, I would give Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 a try, or Castrol Edge 0W-30. Fuchs also has some excellent oils, especially in their Silkolene line-up.

Will

 

I have run the M1 oil filter up to 8k miles and the UOA indicated the filter had done just fine. I think M1 actually advertises them for up to 15k miles. So, if you wanted to skip every other 3500 mile oil change to change the filter, there would be no reason to worry.

Will

edit: also, this was assuming the larger M1-110 filter

 

I'm curious to if there's any recommendations for which oil to use in New York? The weather isn't really extremely warm in the summer. I've had problems with Mobil 1(in an HR) as for some reason after 1.2k miles it's burned about 1/4 of a quart. I was thinking the Amsoil 5w-30 or maybe the Castrol German 0w-30 since it's warming up now.

 

Ah, thanks Will. I'll probably use the K&N filter (HP 1010 is the same size as the M1-110 I think) because it's easier to take off. I even have a smaller filter wrench, and they're still hard to take off. I'm thinking the K&N one will be easier with that nut thing on the end.

 

Here is my latest UOA report with the German Castrol 0w30 compared to the previous report, which had 8700 miles on 10w30 Mobile 1 EP. The most recent oil (German Castol) had 4200 miles on it and the engine did over 50 dyno runs and several WOT runs every time the engine was running.

I am currently running the Amsoil 0w30 SS. I will probably change that out around 4000 miles and do another UOA. Then, I will be changing back to a 10w30. Not sure what kind though.

 

My first UOA on my '04 350z. With Mobil One 10W-40 High Mileage. Looking pretty good. Did 4k on it with a couple track days.

 

Here is my latest UOA on Nissan Ester Oil (2nd UOA) TBN is now a 3.0, what do you all think? I did do a OC after I pulled this sample and put in Penn Ultra, really excited to see how that works out. Thanks!

 

Any particular reason you're running the Nissan "ester" oil in your VQ35? Did the dealer tell you it was required for your VQ35 as well as the VQ37VE engine? Just curious.

It sheared down to a 20wt oil and dropped TBN rather quickly. TAN is high for the mileage. If it was a Group5 oil I would think the esters could be responsible for the TAN, but this isn't the case. It's a conventional base with a healthy dose of moly (wish we knew who made it and what Mo compound they used) and some ester additive, around 5% by volume of TMP esters according to Nissan's internal documents. And contrary to all the internet rumor, there is no special nano-particles formed from a-C in this oil.

As is obvious by now, your engine's not wearing in so hot, even compared to Nissan's V2 build of the ubiquitous Rev-Ups. Still, mileage is low and we'll know more after your next UOA with the switch to PU, but the relative increase in Fe and Al wear, the normal Si content, and lack of any fuel dilution make me believe a good part of this wear is lack of adequate protection from a crappy oil run for what should be a suitable OCI. If this were the new VQ37, it would be different, but this is from a regular VQ35. I hope Nissan isn't pushing this oil on Maxima and Altima guys now, too.

Will

edit: what kind of filter? (wishes Blackstone would just put a place for people to record it so it would be included on their UOA)

 

That looks very good. What kind of track days, drag or road course?

Will