Hello,

I really enjoy reading about your oil analysis. Very informative.

Quick question. From the last sample you posted about PP oil. It looks like PP 5w-30 oil can be used for 8000+ oil change interval and the VQ engine still get good protection from it. To me PP 5w-30 seems to be better in term of economic (cheaper) and easier to find in local stores than GC 0w-30 ( can't find locally), or Castrol Syntec 5w-30 (not recommend to go over 6000 miles oil change interval) and M1 0w-40 ( around 4000 mile interval and more expensive).

My car is stock (2006 G35 coupe) and will run in the brutal MN winter, too. Should I use PP 5w-30 ( cheap, long interval, good protection, and can be bought at a local store), Castrol Syntec 5w-30 ( very similar to PP in price but seems to be shorter in life span), or M1 0w-40 ( I don't think I get the benefit out of it like other)?

Did I get it correctly or I'm totally off base there?

Thanks,

 

Great chart. Thank you much for that time and effort. But no Valvoline 5w-30 SynPower on there that I submitted. Was really curious how that compared to the others. It's price competes with PP and both a Base 3 Synth. My VQ was well beyond factory break-in period, some OC but nothing like my original. Oh well thanks anyway......

 

Your post comes across as though you actually feel slighted. If you posted a Valvoline SynPower 5W-30 UOA, then understand I simply didn't record it. There is nothing personal about your UOA result not being included in the comparison chart I made. If you post it up again, or link to wherever it is in this long-*** thread, I'll add it to the comparison chart.

Will

 

I would use any one of those three oils without worry. I wouldn't use the Castrol or PP for 8k miles, though, The TBN was fine, but that's not the entire story. Oxidation was obviously a problem with the PP, so a 7500 mile oil change interval would be more suitable. I think Castrol Syntec would be close to the same.

Will

 

UOA: 7-24-09:
https://my350z.com/forum/7581935-post856.html
Your .02: 7-25-09:
https://my350z.com/forum/7586775-post857.html

Understand nothing personal. Slipped through cracks. Add if you wish or not due to my elevated metals.

 

Mthreat used Torco TBO for his first start up and break in if I'm not mistaken as it is intended exactly for that purpose.

My question is, is it functionally better to use a specific 'startup' oil for that precious moment, or would PP 5w30/Castrol GTX 5w30 serve the same purpose and provide adequate protection on the initial start of an re-built engine?

Also, what is the best way to prime the VQ with oil prior to cranking it over to limit the startup wear and tear?

 

Certainly I am no expert but would like to put this on the table. Many times I see people using superslick oils for break in.. My experience has been to use a standard oil of a break in oil. Brad Penn makes a good break in oil. The purpose of break in is to have the parts wear in. All the engines I have rebuilt (old chevy and ford) the common practice is to not let it sit and idle.. also do not keep reving it up.. Breaking in the cam is critical. We bring the motor up to 3000 rpm and hold it for 20-30 minutes. This creates a proper wear pattern on the cam. Standard Rings seat in about 500 miles and Molly Rings in 1200 miles.

As for start up in the old engines you could take out the distributor and prime the pump with a rod through to the bottom and into the pump. I would assume there is no access to these new motors. If it were my I would keep the plugs out to decrease the load on the bottom end so that it would just free spin. Since the cam lifters etc. have assembly lube they are fine. You will build oil pressure quickly. Prime the oil filter and remember the sender unit is at the filter and is not an indication of full flow in the engine. After the gauge shows full pressure I would crank for 10-15 seconds. Install the plugs then run to break in the cam..

I only run the break in oil for the start-up and heat cycles and a quick light load ride.. Then I change it out for a standard oil. GTX works for me.. Change at 500 miles then at 4000 miles.

This is just my experience.

 

^ Good stuff and thanks for that input.

I changed oil a couple more times than mentioned to flush those metals and assembly lubes out quicker. Used a Group III blend during my replacement break-in. My wifes brand new car came with Synth from the factory for break-in, uses no oil and seated fine. GTR's come with Synth I believe from factory with their VQ38VHR with no issues

Unfortunately, we're at the dealers trust how it's first fired up, ran and test driven for QC purposes. Mine had 15 miles on my fresh VQ when I picked up from dealer. How those 15 miles were driven, I'll never know...

I thought I was on the OC thread. My post is off topic. Sorry folks.

 

With the tolerances they built engines to these days, extensive engine break-in procedures are a thing of the past. Hundreds of thousands of engines have run from day one on synthetic oil, with very few issues. Hell, many car manufacturers don't even recommend the first oil change until around 10K miles.

That said, I broke in my built motor on Castrol GTX dino oil for the first 500 miles and now run full synthetic.

 

100% agree.. Like I said my experience is old school.. New engines are already run at the factory and broken in.. I may have not read the post correctly but I thought that the question was if an engine was just rebuilt say at a local shop and not had any factory treatment.. I would in that case consider some sort of break-in procedure. Not much but at least a heat cycle to seat everything in..

 

I agree, I just don't think it needs 20-30 minutes at a constant RPM.

 

Hell no.. Aren't new engines fantastic..

 

Thanks for the responces on break in procedures, however I was more curious on if the type of oil used for the first startup matters or as most people agree any non synthetic will do the job? (I will be experiencing this next week as my rebuild is fired up for the first time ever) I want to make sure I do everything possible to ensure a safe damage free environment.

Sorry if this is slightly off topic, I figured the oil experts on the board would have an opinion.

 

Yes they are.

 

And I missed the context as well. My post referred to the warranty TSB replacement long blocks many are getting from dealers as I did, being one of the main topics on oil consumption thread. Those aren't pre-broken-in to my knowledge, just built (as re-manufactured), crated, stored and then shipped to dealers when ordered.

-my .02-
I heard long time ago and believed dino is best with fresh engines, but my Tribologist said to use Synth asap on my replacement. I met halfway with a blend, being slightly unsure from what I believed prior. What I learned since is many Synths are group III these days. Group III is petroleum based. Long story how that became and allowed to be called a Synth.

No matter which type oil you choose, changing oil a few times to flush things out in our VQ's early life is the key imo, along with correct break-in methods of course. Should have seen what came out of my oil at 75mi, then again at 500. Third flush looked normal ~1500mi.

 

From what I can gather on this thread, the best oil seems to be Castrol 0W30 or 5W-30.

Has anyone had the chance to test the Castrol EDGE 5W-30 motor oil? Are there any numbers for it?

 

No one has submitted a UOA using Edge from the VQ35DE engine in this thread, unless I missed it. So, there are no numbers for it. I doubt it would perform any better than Syntec 0W-30, but maybe someone will run a few changes with it and we'll have some idea whether it's worth the premium or not.

Will

 

Good deal on Castrol Syntec and K&N Filter. https://my350z.com/forum/vq35hr/46192...-autozone.html

 

Resolute,

Thanks for a great thread. However, it is unbearable for me to read all 45 pages to find my answer.

So I hope you can help out and answer this.

I have 08 350z HR motor. I usually change oil and replace oil filter every 6 months or so (in spring and in fall) since I only drive the car on the weekends and put about 4K miles per year. The car currently has 8K miles. I'm planning to store my car during the winter time (about 2-3 months).

For the last two oil changes, I've used Mobil 1 filter and 5 quarts of Mobil 1 5W-30.
Now that I've stumped on this thread and found out more people are referring to use Castro Synth 5w-30 (made in Germany).

Should I continue using Mobil 1 oil and filter? Or should I switch to Castro Synth?

Do you have tests that show which oil has the best performance on HR motors?

Thanks.

 

I think the answer is going to be, "Submit your used oil for analysis - and your answer will be in the results of that test.."