Crank pulley fugged up!
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Crank pulley fugged up!
I had a aftermarket pulley on my motor. I took the car in for a lifter adjustment and they took the whole front of the motor off to get to the cams. Now after 10k miles I have a oil leak. I started to search and found that the oil was coming from the crank pulley area. I busted out the breaker bar to pull the crank pulley off. Went to give it a shove and it just turned with ease!!! The crank pulley bolt was loose. So I unscrewed it and the key way on the crank has ground down the pulley! This is where the oil problem is coming from. Question is should the shop have put lock tight on the bolt? Should I contact them or just get a new crank pulley and say fug it?
BTW if anyone has a stock crank pulley please PM me
BTW if anyone has a stock crank pulley please PM me
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Subscribes for brand. I've read the all aluminum ones are prone to wear in the key way area causing a leak. UR is the only brand that uses a steel insert to prevent this.
Does the pulley itself create the seal or do you now need to replace an oil seal as well as the pulley?
Does the pulley itself create the seal or do you now need to replace an oil seal as well as the pulley?
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#10
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Originally Posted by sentry65
so 14k with the KJR - any problems yet? I had my installer look mine over (3k miles on it) and so far everything looks fine. I'll probably keep it on until I need to change it
G352NV, what pulley are you using? KJR? How many miles are on it?
G352NV, what pulley are you using? KJR? How many miles are on it?
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Originally Posted by 97supratt
I remember when I installed my KJR (I hope i spelled it correctly), it said torque it to 80ft/lbs. My long time mechanic said its not tight enough, so I took a look at it and it wasn't. We torqued it to 100ft/lbs and it was fine.
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
The instructions weren't clear and/or people didn't read them completely. You tighten it to 30-35 ft-lbs then tighten it by turning the bolt an additional 60º. That extra 60º probably pushes it to around 150 to 200 ft-lbs
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
For future reference - there's no need to post a message with "subscribing" in it. If you want to subscribe to a thread, go to the top of the thread and pick "Thread Tools" then "Subscribe to this thread".
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
The instructions weren't clear and/or people didn't read them completely. You tighten it to 30-35 ft-lbs then tighten it by turning the bolt an additional 60º. That extra 60º probably pushes it to around 150 to 200 ft-lbs
Upon looking under the car this past weekend, haven't noticed any leaks or anything like that.
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
For future reference - there's no need to post a message with "subscribing" in it. If you want to subscribe to a thread, go to the top of the thread and pick "Thread Tools" then "Subscribe to this thread".
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Originally Posted by miamimax96
I'm surprised no one else said anything about the "lifter adjustment" in the first post. VQ's don't have any lifters to adjust.
The pulley was a UR. Im guessing its something that should be checked after a few thousand miles. Thats what Ill be doing when I install it myself this time. I just hope theres enough of that key way left on the crank for it to go on right!
Big thanks goes out to VicPham for helping me out with a stock pulley!
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Originally Posted by G352NV
Lifter caps. The caps that sit under the cams.
The pulley was a UR. Im guessing its something that should be checked after a few thousand miles. Thats what Ill be doing when I install it myself this time. I just hope theres enough of that key way left on the crank for it to go on right!
Big thanks goes out to VicPham for helping me out with a stock pulley!
The pulley was a UR. Im guessing its something that should be checked after a few thousand miles. Thats what Ill be doing when I install it myself this time. I just hope theres enough of that key way left on the crank for it to go on right!
Big thanks goes out to VicPham for helping me out with a stock pulley!
No problem. Always happy to help out another Forum member.
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Originally Posted by 350Zenophile
Subscribes for brand. I've read the all aluminum ones are prone to wear in the key way area causing a leak. UR is the only brand that uses a steel insert to prevent this.
Does the pulley itself create the seal or do you now need to replace an oil seal as well as the pulley?
Does the pulley itself create the seal or do you now need to replace an oil seal as well as the pulley?
Ill also need to replace the oil seal as well.