Stillen Engine damper... WTF!!!
Originally Posted by DROPPEDIT2WCE
Stillen is crap, I bought a real Stillen and and Egay knock off and geuss what... They are %100 down to the tee identical!
Buy NRG, alot of my Honda buddies have these and they have had zero problems whatsoever. Excellent quality dampers with better color choices too.
Stillen always FTL
Buy NRG, alot of my Honda buddies have these and they have had zero problems whatsoever. Excellent quality dampers with better color choices too.
Stillen always FTL
Originally Posted by punish_her
That would mean it didnt quite dampen all the way. From the looks of it, the piston acted like a pivot and it bend like a V enough to destroy it. AKA "catrostophic failure". I've only seen this one other time when the damper was not aligned properly.
The engine moves on the center line of the crank wich creats an arc. The radius of this arc is the key part. The damper has to be perfectly perpindicular to this in order to work properly. If its off by even a fraction of an inch it will try to bend, using the piston as a pivot point.
From the looks of the threads it was wearing for a while before it gave. Im guessing the White plastic peice is the actual piston. It was damaged in the direction of the bend. The initial damage is more than likely the smaller groove and was probably rotated due to the pressure. The Deeper groove is most likely where the shaft sat during the final failure of the damper. That would definately corrispond with the damage on the housing. The extra play due to the wear allowed the shaft to wiggle more. So the more it wiggled the deeper the groove, the deeper grove allowed the shaft to wiggle more. A vicious cycle until it finaly gave.
The rubber peices above and below the piston were to basicly provide friction and atempt to keep the shaft centered. The top peice is crushed because it couldnt hold up the all the perssuer and movement of the shaft. You should also have slight damage on the bottom piece on the lower most portion, but not too much. There wasnt enough leverage to cause too much pressure. Simple physics, the farther away you get from the fulcrom of a lever the greater the force thats applied. So say the distance from the center of the piston to the bottom of the shaft is 12.5 mm (1/2 inch) and the distance from the center of the piston to the connection point on the block is 87.5 mm (3.5 inches) your pressure exurted on the pop top side of the piston surface where the shaft contacted it was 7 times the amount of force as the back side. Plus you got that backing plate there which will dispers the pressure in the oposite direction of movement almost evenly on that half of the surface so the pressure is divided out (reducing the pressure in any given area) So depending on the accelerated movement of the block, engine weight, and torque applied to the engine you could have easly of had 2000lbs of pressure on that shaft trying to bend it. Which by all accounts it was semi successful.
The engine moves on the center line of the crank wich creats an arc. The radius of this arc is the key part. The damper has to be perfectly perpindicular to this in order to work properly. If its off by even a fraction of an inch it will try to bend, using the piston as a pivot point.
From the looks of the threads it was wearing for a while before it gave. Im guessing the White plastic peice is the actual piston. It was damaged in the direction of the bend. The initial damage is more than likely the smaller groove and was probably rotated due to the pressure. The Deeper groove is most likely where the shaft sat during the final failure of the damper. That would definately corrispond with the damage on the housing. The extra play due to the wear allowed the shaft to wiggle more. So the more it wiggled the deeper the groove, the deeper grove allowed the shaft to wiggle more. A vicious cycle until it finaly gave.
The rubber peices above and below the piston were to basicly provide friction and atempt to keep the shaft centered. The top peice is crushed because it couldnt hold up the all the perssuer and movement of the shaft. You should also have slight damage on the bottom piece on the lower most portion, but not too much. There wasnt enough leverage to cause too much pressure. Simple physics, the farther away you get from the fulcrom of a lever the greater the force thats applied. So say the distance from the center of the piston to the bottom of the shaft is 12.5 mm (1/2 inch) and the distance from the center of the piston to the connection point on the block is 87.5 mm (3.5 inches) your pressure exurted on the pop top side of the piston surface where the shaft contacted it was 7 times the amount of force as the back side. Plus you got that backing plate there which will dispers the pressure in the oposite direction of movement almost evenly on that half of the surface so the pressure is divided out (reducing the pressure in any given area) So depending on the accelerated movement of the block, engine weight, and torque applied to the engine you could have easly of had 2000lbs of pressure on that shaft trying to bend it. Which by all accounts it was semi successful.
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