Anything else needed to get a upgrade cooling core radiator running efficiently on our G/Z's? Besides a radiator cap and samco hoses, is anything else needed? Is an aftermarket thermometer necessary to get the full benefits of a more efficient radiator? I'm considering the ARC micro conditioner for my cpv35--it's a straight drop in--no filing or modification required

Anyone running N/A with a upgraded radiator? Does this result in a significant pressure drop?

If the radiator is more efficient or cools better, this would mean the stock fans would not go on as much or need to work as hard to keep the h20 cool, no, as well as providing insurance against overheating on track days?

 

If you are going to do a radiator upgrade you might as well do the thermostat at the same time. You're really wasting money on an ARC radiator. ARC is nice, but Koyo or Fluidyne will do the same job for a lot less. Keep in mind that if you ever go FI, you will most likely have to do some mods to keep the aftermarket radiator unless you get the slimmer Koyo.

 

^^What thermostats are available, or would you recommend? I know the ARC is pricey, but I was able to get a pretty good deal on one for my cpv35 from a japanese vendor and just couldn't resist.

 

Nismo makes a thermostat.

 

Thanks!

 

No problemo.

 

Actually, none of those things are "needed." A decent oversized radiator like Koyo or Fluidyne with stock hoses and the stock cap will "work."

However, it's your car and if you want to pay all that money for those things, that's your prerogative.

A Koyo radiator costs around $400.

An ARC radiator costs over $1200
An ARC radiator cap is $30
Samco sport hoses are about $170

$400 or $1400, you will get the exact same performance.

 

The trick is to increase the TOTAL volume of the coolant in the entire system. Measure oem rad holding capacity say 3 quarts and compare with aftermarkets...........really difficult to find even a 0.4 quart [4% system increase].

Years ago I had Griffin make a custom rad [for my Q] with double thick aluminum and larger end tank..............ugly, heavy, and big but I got my 8% more coolant capacity.

 

Anyone have weights for these? That would be my biggest selling point.

 

The heavier the better [thicker alunimum] if long term reliability is any concern...........especially if supercharged stressed.

Saving 4-5 pounds may not be meaningful if you are changing a radiator on the side of the road?

 

Cooling factor > weight of radiator

 

Anybody know what an air remover tank does or what a radiator valve guide does?
http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/produc...ver/index.html

http://www.arcinter.co.jp/arc/produc...lve/index.html

 

absolutely NO reason to run this. It just opens sooner, big deal.... and for like 130-150 bucks vs the $8 I paid for the stock one, no thanks.

That nismo thermostat will make no difference, so save your money.

Just get the koyo drop in replacement for around 400 bucks and you will have all the cooling you will need

 

Just beware for future upgrades that some FI won't fit with the larger radiators.

 

cough . . . turbonetics . . . cough

 

The Nismo thermostat is for people that require extreme cooling to resist detonation.

 

That is a huge line of BS.

The stock thermostat opens at like 180. the nismo opens at 160. When pushed, the car will have water temps that exceed 180, thus making the point it opens worthless. It will do nothing for max temps.

 

Use the heater core lines to supply a giant insulated tank inside the passenger compartment.

For durabilty the large MB/BMW have a 14-15 quart coolant capacity.
Nascar uses 16 QUARTS of oil and 12 quarts of water for cooling.

2 ways to skin the overheat cat: larger radiator or more coolant to sink heat.

 

I'm claiming ignorance now. What temps are daily driver's suppose to run at?

 

Below 200F as this is the start of summer protective software which starts decreasing ignition advance. Above 160F as this is where ecu stops warm up enrichment........................176F-190F is ideal.