I have a 2004 350z, it was done with my aftermarket wheels and there was some trouble getting my tires not to spin while on the dyno. From what I have done to the car, which is listed in my signature is a bit disappointing. I wish if I did a stock baseline dyno but didn't think of it at the time.

Please let me know how this dyno looks to you.


Thanks, Dan

 

There is definately some serious power and trq left on the table. With a retune of that AF curve, at least 10-15whp easily. We usually see peak power/trq on NA applications in the low to mid 12's AF.

You have some good mods...now you just need a tune.

 

Nice that makes me feel better. That is what I was going to do next to finalize my N/A mods for a while before I go F/I. I am just deciding between the Technosquare reflash or a Utech tune. I am leaning towards the reflash though although I know I wont be able to squeeze out as much power the cost and convenience is better. Thanks for the reply Sharif

 

owning a dynojet , i just have to say, there is NO way you were spinning the tires on the dyno unless they just didnt have your car strapped down right. your numbers are on par for what bolt on dynojet numbers usually make...

 

Lol, I have no idea but thats what the dyno operator told me when i kept getting readings of around 170 hp to the wheels. He had to reposition my rear wheels on the dyno after and told me it had to do with the independent suspension. Thanks for the reply Jeremy, im feeling much better that they are pretty much normal for a non-revup motor.

 

he is dumb, also, if he did a couple runs with 170 the wheels, he probably really hurt your readings. usually on my dyno the second run makes the most power and any runs after that keep losing and losing...


i do many many many independent rear suspension cars on my dyno, i thnk he might not know how to strap the car down for accurate readings...

 

I don't really understand why you posted a sad face.

Either get tuned, go F/I, or accept what you pulled...

 

Numbers are just numbers. Nothing more to it.

Come to think of it, this dyno is pretty much useless without a stock baseline, or atleast a dyno with fewer mods.

.

 

Yeah true, I was just expecting higher because most of the dynos ive seen have the same numbers w/o headers. Now im happy because I am getting a reflash and within a year the new Powerlab single turbo kit. So like skaterbasist said number are just numbers.

Thanks for the replies

 

I took out the sad face Wired

 

don't worry, be happy

 

Why is it plotted vs MPH and not RPM?

 

Probably couldnt find a good tach signal, or didnt want to hook it up.

 

I love my UTEC! I'll be honest, it didn't get me the peak power I would like to brag about. I did get an average of 10whp/wtq in the midrange.

 

UTEC all the way! With it I gained 10whp with Nismo exhaust setup, and 15whp with my new HKS Ti exhaust setup.
Also, my peak torque comes in at 3500RPM instead of stocker's 4800RPM.
It makes power delivery quite a bit more linear than it already is, but I do get that flat torque curve

 

Ok, thanks for all the replies, now I just have to make my final decision on a tune or reflash. I was really leaning towards the reflash but now its pretty much balanced out between the two. Life's tough decisions

 

Here is a reason I don't like reflashes 1) Its a guess of what your engine is doing. Someone sayd "This is what my car did so your's should be doing the same with simular mods." 2) The next performace mod you do you need to spend the same amount of money for another reflash.

Invest in the UTEC!!! It will benefit you in the long haul. Plus they are going for $700-$800 new these days! I bought mine when they were $1k.

EDIT: Just saw you're sig say "Turbo Soon." Don't waste your money on a flash get the UTEC. You'll need it when you go boost.