Built VQ or RB26
06-21-2007, 07:34 AM
#81
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Originally Posted by widebody350
Thanks man and I can see that you're doing it right and I know it's been a long time coming for you. How much HP are you going for? I was considering it, but for my power goals/goals for the car it just wasn't worth it. I'm really looking forward to seeing your car man. If you need any help or have any questions, just let me know and I'll see if I, or anyone I know can help. Plus JE is only about 45 minutes from me, and my gf and I go up to Baltimore to eat a fair amount anyways.
06-21-2007, 09:19 AM
#82
Originally Posted by Jeff92se
Not quite sure what you are getting at. We are comparing the weight of the engines only. Unless you are stating because of the AWD, it somehow translates to a very heavy RB26DETT engine?
06-21-2007, 09:34 AM
#83
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Well I think it is pretty much understood that if you are doing this swap it will be RWD (unless explicitly stated), so it would be safe to assume that you are either going to be using a modified RB26 pan (like I am) or using a RB25 pan and significantly reducing the weight.
This motor may weigh more than the VQ, but I think in the end (modified oil pan, single turbo rather than twin turbo, etc etc) it isn't going to be that big of a difference. The other thing you have to consider about this swap is that most people would be comparing it to a twin turbo VQ, not a N/A VQ. Strapping two cast manifolds, two wastegates, and two 18g's to a VQ...adds about 60lbs to the motor. So like I said on the previous page....in time, everyone will have their answer to the question, "How much heavier will it be?" or "What is the weight distribution going to look like"
My car...rear completely stripped, OMP racing seats, bcr harness bar, no carpet...Greddy TT, full 3" true dual with wastegate dumps, 18x10.5/9.5 Volk TE37's and 295/265 tires, 1/8th tank of gas and stock battery...weighed in at 3161 lbs....56% Front, 44% Rear weight distribution.
Just some data for thought.
This motor may weigh more than the VQ, but I think in the end (modified oil pan, single turbo rather than twin turbo, etc etc) it isn't going to be that big of a difference. The other thing you have to consider about this swap is that most people would be comparing it to a twin turbo VQ, not a N/A VQ. Strapping two cast manifolds, two wastegates, and two 18g's to a VQ...adds about 60lbs to the motor. So like I said on the previous page....in time, everyone will have their answer to the question, "How much heavier will it be?" or "What is the weight distribution going to look like"
My car...rear completely stripped, OMP racing seats, bcr harness bar, no carpet...Greddy TT, full 3" true dual with wastegate dumps, 18x10.5/9.5 Volk TE37's and 295/265 tires, 1/8th tank of gas and stock battery...weighed in at 3161 lbs....56% Front, 44% Rear weight distribution.
Just some data for thought.
Last edited by 002-M-P; 06-21-2007 at 09:47 AM.
06-21-2007, 07:40 PM
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what you guys forget is that the RB26 lays down 240hp at the wheels on an R34. which is not something to gawk over cause of the drive-train loss from the AWD system.
on a RWD application an RB26 will produce around 300-340hp(depending on condition, and final drive ratio). in a recent magazine write-up(i think IT) a 240 was getting its swap done and it layed 320hp and 280-310tq to the wheels.
to say that the RB would not be a good choice is justifiable.
to those who replied to the RB's powerband/engine characteristics:
the reason the RB revs so high being I6 is because of its short stroke and large pistons(DUH!!). it does make great low-end torque on its parallel advanced ceramic bearing twins.
the weight of the motor vs the VQ is arguable at best, if anyone knows the weight of a naked 2jz then theres your answer minus a few pounds for the thicker rods the 2jz has.
the RB has an issue with its horsepower tolerance. it is RUMORED to handle 1000hp on a stock bottom end. which has been proven, but not proven to be reliable. for reliabilities sake you're looking around 6-800hp as the rotating assembly is lighter than a VQ or 2jz.
note the best way to increase low-mid range torque is the 2.9 stroker kit from JUN and still revs happily to 10k. why? cause the rod to stroke ratio
as for the swap to a 350z, you'll need: either an RB25 oil-pan or custom fabricated, RB25 tranny, custom driveshaft, and the what others other guys replied.
on a RWD application an RB26 will produce around 300-340hp(depending on condition, and final drive ratio). in a recent magazine write-up(i think IT) a 240 was getting its swap done and it layed 320hp and 280-310tq to the wheels.
to say that the RB would not be a good choice is justifiable.
to those who replied to the RB's powerband/engine characteristics:
the reason the RB revs so high being I6 is because of its short stroke and large pistons(DUH!!). it does make great low-end torque on its parallel advanced ceramic bearing twins.
the weight of the motor vs the VQ is arguable at best, if anyone knows the weight of a naked 2jz then theres your answer minus a few pounds for the thicker rods the 2jz has.
the RB has an issue with its horsepower tolerance. it is RUMORED to handle 1000hp on a stock bottom end. which has been proven, but not proven to be reliable. for reliabilities sake you're looking around 6-800hp as the rotating assembly is lighter than a VQ or 2jz.
note the best way to increase low-mid range torque is the 2.9 stroker kit from JUN and still revs happily to 10k. why? cause the rod to stroke ratio
as for the swap to a 350z, you'll need: either an RB25 oil-pan or custom fabricated, RB25 tranny, custom driveshaft, and the what others other guys replied.
Last edited by Grey Ghost; 06-21-2007 at 07:44 PM.
06-21-2007, 09:05 PM
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Originally Posted by Grey Ghost
what you guys forget is that the RB26 lays down 240hp at the wheels on an R34. which is not something to gawk over cause of the drive-train loss from the AWD system.
on a RWD application an RB26 will produce around 300-340hp(depending on condition, and final drive ratio). in a recent magazine write-up(i think IT) a 240 was getting its swap done and it layed 320hp and 280-310tq to the wheels.
to say that the RB would not be a good choice is justifiable.
to those who replied to the RB's powerband/engine characteristics:
the reason the RB revs so high being I6 is because of its short stroke and large pistons(DUH!!). it does make great low-end torque on its parallel advanced ceramic bearing twins.
the weight of the motor vs the VQ is arguable at best, if anyone knows the weight of a naked 2jz then theres your answer minus a few pounds for the thicker rods the 2jz has.
the RB has an issue with its horsepower tolerance. it is RUMORED to handle 1000hp on a stock bottom end. which has been proven, but not proven to be reliable. for reliabilities sake you're looking around 6-800hp as the rotating assembly is lighter than a VQ or 2jz.
note the best way to increase low-mid range torque is the 2.9 stroker kit from JUN and still revs happily to 10k. why? cause the rod to stroke ratio
as for the swap to a 350z, you'll need: either an RB25 oil-pan or custom fabricated, RB25 tranny, custom driveshaft, and the what others other guys replied.
on a RWD application an RB26 will produce around 300-340hp(depending on condition, and final drive ratio). in a recent magazine write-up(i think IT) a 240 was getting its swap done and it layed 320hp and 280-310tq to the wheels.
to say that the RB would not be a good choice is justifiable.
to those who replied to the RB's powerband/engine characteristics:
the reason the RB revs so high being I6 is because of its short stroke and large pistons(DUH!!). it does make great low-end torque on its parallel advanced ceramic bearing twins.
the weight of the motor vs the VQ is arguable at best, if anyone knows the weight of a naked 2jz then theres your answer minus a few pounds for the thicker rods the 2jz has.
the RB has an issue with its horsepower tolerance. it is RUMORED to handle 1000hp on a stock bottom end. which has been proven, but not proven to be reliable. for reliabilities sake you're looking around 6-800hp as the rotating assembly is lighter than a VQ or 2jz.
note the best way to increase low-mid range torque is the 2.9 stroker kit from JUN and still revs happily to 10k. why? cause the rod to stroke ratio
as for the swap to a 350z, you'll need: either an RB25 oil-pan or custom fabricated, RB25 tranny, custom driveshaft, and the what others other guys replied.
06-22-2007, 03:31 PM
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it does make great low-end torque on its parallel advanced ceramic bearing twins.
the weight of the motor vs the VQ is arguable at best, if anyone knows the weight of a naked 2jz then theres your answer minus a few pounds for the thicker rods the 2jz has.
the RB has an issue with its horsepower tolerance. it is RUMORED to handle 1000hp on a stock bottom end. which has been proven, but not proven to be reliable. for reliabilities sake you're looking around 6-800hp as the rotating assembly is lighter than a VQ or 2jz.
as for the swap to a 350z, you'll need: either an RB25 oil-pan or custom fabricated, RB25 tranny, custom driveshaft, and the what others other guys replied.
06-22-2007, 05:14 PM
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you cut the the awd stuff off the oil pan. and you can use the 6 speed from the gtr just cap the transfer case. i was going to do this since i work at an import shop but were trying to change over to offroad. theres more money in it. and im selling the z. and i had the gfreddy kit but theres nothing like an old rb motor.nothing
06-22-2007, 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 350zzzzzz
you cut the the awd stuff off the oil pan. and you can use the 6 speed from the gtr just cap the transfer case. i was going to do this since i work at an import shop but were trying to change over to offroad. theres more money in it. and im selling the z. and i had the gfreddy kit but theres nothing like an old rb motor.nothing
06-23-2007, 03:49 PM
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I'm actually going to be running AWD with my RB.
Where have you been sourcing parts 002? I picked up a blown RB26 for cheap, but it needs new.... everything. Power goals around the same. Probably going to go single turbo because of the clearance for the steering rack.
Where have you been sourcing parts 002? I picked up a blown RB26 for cheap, but it needs new.... everything. Power goals around the same. Probably going to go single turbo because of the clearance for the steering rack.
06-23-2007, 04:22 PM
#91
Originally Posted by 002-M-P
Well I think it is pretty much understood that if you are doing this swap it will be RWD (unless explicitly stated), so it would be safe to assume that you are either going to be using a modified RB26 pan (like I am) or using a RB25 pan and significantly reducing the weight.
This motor may weigh more than the VQ, but I think in the end (modified oil pan, single turbo rather than twin turbo, etc etc) it isn't going to be that big of a difference. The other thing you have to consider about this swap is that most people would be comparing it to a twin turbo VQ, not a N/A VQ. Strapping two cast manifolds, two wastegates, and two 18g's to a VQ...adds about 60lbs to the motor. So like I said on the previous page....in time, everyone will have their answer to the question, "How much heavier will it be?" or "What is the weight distribution going to look like"
My car...rear completely stripped, OMP racing seats, bcr harness bar, no carpet...Greddy TT, full 3" true dual with wastegate dumps, 18x10.5/9.5 Volk TE37's and 295/265 tires, 1/8th tank of gas and stock battery...weighed in at 3161 lbs....56% Front, 44% Rear weight distribution.
Just some data for thought.
This motor may weigh more than the VQ, but I think in the end (modified oil pan, single turbo rather than twin turbo, etc etc) it isn't going to be that big of a difference. The other thing you have to consider about this swap is that most people would be comparing it to a twin turbo VQ, not a N/A VQ. Strapping two cast manifolds, two wastegates, and two 18g's to a VQ...adds about 60lbs to the motor. So like I said on the previous page....in time, everyone will have their answer to the question, "How much heavier will it be?" or "What is the weight distribution going to look like"
My car...rear completely stripped, OMP racing seats, bcr harness bar, no carpet...Greddy TT, full 3" true dual with wastegate dumps, 18x10.5/9.5 Volk TE37's and 295/265 tires, 1/8th tank of gas and stock battery...weighed in at 3161 lbs....56% Front, 44% Rear weight distribution.
Just some data for thought.
lol its ok to dream.
06-23-2007, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by BornSlippyZ
That's pretty sick putting RB in your Z. Question though does the turbo plumbing get in the way of the left hand steering components of your Z? You probably solved the problem but I would like to see pics when it is complete. On the debate of the post, I wish I had the money to now to build my VQ or I wish I could contact Top Secret for their $40k 800hp RB. lol its ok to dream.
lol its ok to dream.+1 on wanting to see it complete.
06-23-2007, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by jimmyloose
I'm actually going to be running AWD with my RB.
Where have you been sourcing parts 002? I picked up a blown RB26 for cheap, but it needs new.... everything. Power goals around the same. Probably going to go single turbo because of the clearance for the steering rack.
Where have you been sourcing parts 002? I picked up a blown RB26 for cheap, but it needs new.... everything. Power goals around the same. Probably going to go single turbo because of the clearance for the steering rack.
As for parts...I have got alot of stuff from different places. I got my headgasket and such from Nengun. Got my oil pan baffling and Power FC from RHDJapan. Oil pump from RB Motoring. CP Pistons from XS-Engineering. Lots of random parts from ebay and various forums (Freshalloy's Skyline GT-R and Nicoclub's RB20/25/26 sections are good for info and members classifieds).
Originally Posted by BornSlippyZ
That's pretty sick putting RB in your Z. Question though does the turbo plumbing get in the way of the left hand steering components of your Z? You probably solved the problem but I would like to see pics when it is complete. On the debate of the post, I wish I had the money to now to build my VQ or I wish I could contact Top Secret for their $40k 800hp RB. lol its ok to dream.
06-23-2007, 07:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 002-M-P
Good luck with the AWD project, I'll def. be looking forward to seeing it.
As for parts...I have got alot of stuff from different places. I got my headgasket and such from Nengun. Got my oil pan baffling and Power FC from RHDJapan. Oil pump from RB Motoring. CP Pistons from XS-Engineering. Lots of random parts from ebay and various forums (Freshalloy's Skyline GT-R and Nicoclub's RB20/25/26 sections are good for info and members classifieds).
As for parts...I have got alot of stuff from different places. I got my headgasket and such from Nengun. Got my oil pan baffling and Power FC from RHDJapan. Oil pump from RB Motoring. CP Pistons from XS-Engineering. Lots of random parts from ebay and various forums (Freshalloy's Skyline GT-R and Nicoclub's RB20/25/26 sections are good for info and members classifieds).
Originally Posted by 002-M-P
To tell you the truth, I haven't had a chance to truly test fit much yet and my exhaust isn't even fabricated yet. Since I have gone the single turbo route it seems like it would be easier, but I am doing a 4" downpipe. There is room for an 18G over there on V6, so I don't see any big problems, but we'll see.
Do you have the guard that bolts between the awd trans and the rb26? The set I got doesn't have it.
I've also been considering buying 9.0 compression pistons and then 2mm shorter rods. I'll call up XS and see what they can do for me.
Thanks for the info!
06-25-2007, 11:29 AM
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Originally Posted by jimmyloose
I'll get the weight on the motor pretty soon... buaahhahahaha!@#
First you were going to do the LS V8, now you think you're doing the RB. Come on man. The price keeps going higher and higher.
06-25-2007, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by THE TECH
I'll believe it when I see it.
First you were going to do the LS V8, now you think you're doing the RB. Come on man. The price keeps going higher and higher.
First you were going to do the LS V8, now you think you're doing the RB. Come on man. The price keeps going higher and higher.
06-27-2007, 04:28 AM
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I'm all about motor swaps.....thye main reason I picked a American V8 is availability of parts...Widebody brings up a good point...if you water pump goes what are you going to do? I would love to go for a ride in one of the RB'd Zs so if someone makes some headway let me know....
06-27-2007, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by supra crazy
Yes being that its 4wd does add weight to the motor since the front drivetrain is a part of the oil pan!
wait for it, wait for it...........
06-27-2007, 07:11 AM
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Originally Posted by Jeff92se
How does a motor that's 2x as long, sit further back than the VQ? You mean you can put the front 3 cylinders further back in the engine bay than the front of the VQ? Unless you put the engine right in the middle of the car, I'm not too sure how you can really not be concerned about an extra 300-400lbs or so.
Plus won't the big single be top mounted? Those are exactly light. Plus the whole top end of the VQ is also aluminin.
Plus won't the big single be top mounted? Those are exactly light. Plus the whole top end of the VQ is also aluminin.