Craftsman torque wrench?
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I need to get a new torque wrench. And craftsman has two types:
- Digitork => Picture
- Microtork
The digitork seems nicer/easier to use but regular (Microtork) are supposed to be better.
So my options are:
- 3/8 inch; 5-80 ft/lb in .5 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 25-250 ft/lb in 2 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 20-150 ft/lb in 1 increasemnt => 74.99 - Microtork
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
What do you think?
- Digitork => Picture
- Microtork
The digitork seems nicer/easier to use but regular (Microtork) are supposed to be better.
So my options are:
- 3/8 inch; 5-80 ft/lb in .5 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 25-250 ft/lb in 2 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 20-150 ft/lb in 1 increasemnt => 74.99 - Microtork
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
What do you think?
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I find the digi's very annoying. The beeping noise doesn't inspire very much confidence in me that I'm at the correct rating. Plus one more electronic thing to go wrong. I'd much prefer the mechanical devices that snaps when you get to torque. I've heard as well that they're more reliable. Get some techs in here to find out what they use.
As for sizing I'd say the 3/8th's is much more practical for most hobyists'. I've survived with only a 3/8th's for two years. I'm looking into getting a 1/2 drive shortly. Most super critical measurements are below the 80lb/ft mark.
As for sizing I'd say the 3/8th's is much more practical for most hobyists'. I've survived with only a 3/8th's for two years. I'm looking into getting a 1/2 drive shortly. Most super critical measurements are below the 80lb/ft mark.
Last edited by Broaner; 06-29-2007 at 09:23 AM.
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Which range better fits what you need it for? It's not like all three are the same wrench with different features, you have 3 completely different wrenches to choose from so pick the one that best suits your needs.
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Originally Posted by nlsqba
I need to get a new torque wrench. And craftsman has two types:
- Digitork => Picture
- Microtork
The digitork seems nicer/easier to use but regular (Microtork) are supposed to be better.
So my options are:
- 3/8 inch; 5-80 ft/lb in .5 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 25-250 ft/lb in 2 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 20-150 ft/lb in 1 increasemnt => 74.99 - Microtork
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
What do you think?
- Digitork => Picture
- Microtork
The digitork seems nicer/easier to use but regular (Microtork) are supposed to be better.
So my options are:
- 3/8 inch; 5-80 ft/lb in .5 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 25-250 ft/lb in 2 increasements => 99.99
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
- 1/2 inch 20-150 ft/lb in 1 increasemnt => 74.99 - Microtork
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
What do you think?
With this being said, an "inch lb" wrench vs. a "ft. lb" wrench are totally different. You really need both wrenches, if you just want to be prepared to torque anything on the car. But if I had to choose between the two, I'd go with the "inch lb." wrench because it's alot easier to snap small delicate bolts than larger ones.
Any torque wrench I purchase is always in 1 increments.
VO(never buys digital. He likes to hear the click)
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the drive size doesn't really matter does it? i just got an adapter set. i have an in-lb torque wrench but only used it for the plenum, i dunno what else it could be used for.
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I buy if mostly for my bike. And I will mostly use 20-80 ft-lb range. But it would also be nice to use it on my car...
so I am deciding between:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
They one are both clickers... but one has the scale in the handle and the other is the older-type where the scale is on the wrench.
so I am deciding between:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
They one are both clickers... but one has the scale in the handle and the other is the older-type where the scale is on the wrench.
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Originally Posted by nlsqba
so I am deciding between:
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
They one are both clickers... but one has the scale in the handle and the other is the older-type where the scale is on the wrench.
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...seBVCookie=Yes
http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...TOOL&ihtoken=1
They one are both clickers... but one has the scale in the handle and the other is the older-type where the scale is on the wrench.
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Originally Posted by nlsqba
I heard something that they are supposed to be better/more accurate...
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i have both inch and ft lbs torque wrenches from craftsman 3/8 and 1/2, just the regular ol wrenches.they have been calibrated since i used them on airplanes and never had anything fail because of improper torque.but if you want the digis, like said earlier go with snap-on.
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I own three Craftsman torque wrenches, for three different ranges. I hate all of them and feel they are useless. My smallest one is completely broken. Inside the handle, the nut came loose and the handle fell off. My roomate was using it at the time and I don't know what setting he had it on, so I can't put the handle back on at the correct setting. The other two are the kind where you turn the handle and look through a little window in the handle to see the number you're on. One day I was setting the torque and noticed that the numbers were not lined up with the little window in the handle, so I pushed the rubber grip up a little and went to far. The window was now displaying a completely different number! I found that I could easily adjust the grip up or down and it would change 10 ft-lbs! Has it been moving on it's own? I now am not confident that they are even on the right setting.
I use Snap-On torque wrenches at work. I recommend those.
I use Snap-On torque wrenches at work. I recommend those.
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As another reference point, I own the Husky torque wrench that has the dial on the handle and it clicks when you hit the torque spec. I've been using it for years now and it is PHENOMENAL. It's 3/8 driver and is just solid. It goes up to 100 ft lbs. and I can do most bolts on the car with it. The dial on the handle is not an issue at all. To move it, you have to use both hands. It has a pretty stiff spring loaded mechanism that you have to pull on and turn at the same time to adjust the setting. I am a strong guy and have history of snapping bolts left, right and sideways and it's impossible for me to move that dial with one hand while I am using it. This is also the reason why I have this thing ![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I usually like to buy Craftsman because of the warranty. A relative bought me this wrench as a gift and I could not be happier. It really is awesome. I did break it once because I used it as a breaker bar on a bolt that was WAY beyond the torque spec that this thing was designed for. I snapped the 3/8 driver right off it. I believe the bolt was torqued down to 170 ft. lbs so I was just being stupid. I went to Home Depot where they sell it and got it replaced for free. I'm smarter now and now that I use it as I should, the thing is just awesome. I highly recommend it.
This is the 1/2 inch version but it's about the same as mine, slightly bigger:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...4&ddkey=Search
![Smilie](https://my350z.com/forum/images/smilies/smile.gif)
I usually like to buy Craftsman because of the warranty. A relative bought me this wrench as a gift and I could not be happier. It really is awesome. I did break it once because I used it as a breaker bar on a bolt that was WAY beyond the torque spec that this thing was designed for. I snapped the 3/8 driver right off it. I believe the bolt was torqued down to 170 ft. lbs so I was just being stupid. I went to Home Depot where they sell it and got it replaced for free. I'm smarter now and now that I use it as I should, the thing is just awesome. I highly recommend it.
This is the 1/2 inch version but it's about the same as mine, slightly bigger:
http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...4&ddkey=Search
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I am a calibration technician, and amongst other things (electronics, pressure gauges, and multimeters) we calibrate a LOT of torque wrenches.
Fist off, you purchased a pretty good consumer-level torque wrench. Unless you are going to use your wrench everyday at a shop, there is no need to spend the extra money on a snap-on or CDI. The one you got doesn't usually require adjustment, and when it does they are fairly easy to adjust.
However, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get it calibrated BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!!!!! I cannot tell you how many wrenches I've had to adjust straight from the factory! All brands, too - Snap-On, CDI, Craftsman, Proto, KDW, and others. I'm not talking about just a couple of lb/ft, I mean up to %10 or more out of tolerance.
Secondly, it is OK for you to use a drive adapter to change the drive size (3/8 to 1/2, 3/8 to 1/4, etc.). The accuracy of the setting will not be affected in the least. We use them constantly since the torque cell we use most often has a 1/2" drive, but the majority of the torque wrenches we use with that cell are 3/8" drive.
Do NOT use a "cheater bar". This is what will change your torque setting and make it grossly innaccurate.
As far as a beam-type torque wrench (the one with a needle pointing down from the head), they are not "more accurate" than a click-type or even a dial-indicating wrench. They are actually rather inaccurate because of human error. It is hard for a lot of people to accurately tell what they are torquing a bolt or screw to with this type of wrench, especially when that person does not have a clear and direct view of the scale. It is also difficult to keep the wrench perpendicular to the bolt. If you do not, the pointer will scrape against the guard and you will get an inaccurate reatding. You should never ever have a problem with the handle accidentally rotating on you so long as it is locked in place and is not malfuctioning. Furthermore, once a beam-type wrench becomes inaccurate, you cannot adjust it. It gets thrown away.
BTW, I am also a Snap-On/CDI certified torque wrench repair technician. When they came to our shop to train us a few months ago, they told us that they are really pushing the digital torque wrenches and hope to discontinue or severely limit sales of the click-type wrenches in the next few years.
Fist off, you purchased a pretty good consumer-level torque wrench. Unless you are going to use your wrench everyday at a shop, there is no need to spend the extra money on a snap-on or CDI. The one you got doesn't usually require adjustment, and when it does they are fairly easy to adjust.
However, PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE get it calibrated BEFORE YOU DO ANYTHING!!!!!! I cannot tell you how many wrenches I've had to adjust straight from the factory! All brands, too - Snap-On, CDI, Craftsman, Proto, KDW, and others. I'm not talking about just a couple of lb/ft, I mean up to %10 or more out of tolerance.
Secondly, it is OK for you to use a drive adapter to change the drive size (3/8 to 1/2, 3/8 to 1/4, etc.). The accuracy of the setting will not be affected in the least. We use them constantly since the torque cell we use most often has a 1/2" drive, but the majority of the torque wrenches we use with that cell are 3/8" drive.
Do NOT use a "cheater bar". This is what will change your torque setting and make it grossly innaccurate.
As far as a beam-type torque wrench (the one with a needle pointing down from the head), they are not "more accurate" than a click-type or even a dial-indicating wrench. They are actually rather inaccurate because of human error. It is hard for a lot of people to accurately tell what they are torquing a bolt or screw to with this type of wrench, especially when that person does not have a clear and direct view of the scale. It is also difficult to keep the wrench perpendicular to the bolt. If you do not, the pointer will scrape against the guard and you will get an inaccurate reatding. You should never ever have a problem with the handle accidentally rotating on you so long as it is locked in place and is not malfuctioning. Furthermore, once a beam-type wrench becomes inaccurate, you cannot adjust it. It gets thrown away.
BTW, I am also a Snap-On/CDI certified torque wrench repair technician. When they came to our shop to train us a few months ago, they told us that they are really pushing the digital torque wrenches and hope to discontinue or severely limit sales of the click-type wrenches in the next few years.
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Originally Posted by nlsqba
Can I just go to Sears and tell them I want to have it calibrated?
Are they supposed to give me some paper stating that the calibration was performed?
Are they supposed to give me some paper stating that the calibration was performed?
I doubt Sears has a torque wrench calibrator and the various sized torque cells needed just hanging around in the back. You need to send it or take it to a calibration lab.
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