just do as i did and fill the canister with plastic epoxy to just above the black plastic valve... this seals it perfectly, though it is not the most aesthetically pleasing... i also broke the little plastic valve **** off of the bottom for giggles...

 

I picked up another one from Home Depot. It does the same thing. No matter what direction I turn the valve it pulls vacuum when the car is running.

I guess my only choice is to try some type of epoxy. I think the way to do it would be to pour it in so it completely fills the valve internally. Then when it hardens it should seal it up.

What type of epoxy should I use for this? It needs to be thin enough to pour into the can and fill all the tiny holes that the oil is seeping through.

If this doesn't work then is there another type of DIY can that may work? If not then who makes an affordable real catch can that fits in a Z? Greddy, ARC, etc???

 

i don't know if you saw this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/295065-stormcrow-fixed-the-knocking-sound-in-my-z.html

but, take a look at the last pic... i've explained above what i did to seal the canister... use PLASTIC epoxy to fill just above the top of the valve as shown...

 

I did see it. I actually posted in that thread.

I saw that pic but I couldn't tell what was in the can. I thought it was oil.

I guess I will stop back at Home Depot and pick up some plastic epoxy. I have to go there anyways to return the can I bought today. Is there any particular brand I should use? Do you think the can being coated with oil is going to be a problem for the epoxy to cure?

 

i would use the new can...and eat the cost of it... i would imagine that the epoxy would not stick properly to an oil coated plastic base... and it doesn't matter what brand of epoxy you get as long as it's designed to repair plastics... LocTite, Devcon...any of them should work no issue...

 

/\ +1 but before you eat the cost try your local Autozone and they might have the old filter.

 

I stopped at Autozone before I went to Home Depot and they didn't have it.

 

I picked up some loctite plastic epoxy. I decided to use the new can. I poured enough in to completely cover the valve. I will install it on my car tomorrow morning and post my results.

 

i could basically blow air through the cannister before putting in the epoxy... once the epoxy set, no air could go through...it would only blow out the side where the valve **** was... i'll wager you're all set now... you won't hear a peep from it...

 

You are correct! I was going to wait until tomorrow but the epoxy hardened much faster than I thought. I just installed it and there is no air leaks! I will have to wait until I drive it to see if the oil that collects leaks. I have to assume that it won't/can't. The only downside to the epoxy is now there is even less room for oil. I guess that just means I will have to empty it more often. No big deal. Thanks for your help Jeremy. I really appreciate it.

Here are some pics. http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02622.jpg http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...n/DSC02625.jpg

 

the oil that collects will not leak... it cannot move past the epoxy barrier... the one thing that remains to be see is will it eat through the epoxy? i don't think it will, but only time will tell...

as far as there being less room for oil now, this is true...but, that cannister is actually quite a bit larger than the original type that was shown in the DIY and i bet it still holds more oil even with the epoxy...

i'm glad things worked out for you and you're more than welcome for the help... that's what we're all on the boards for...

 

Glad you got the figured out... I have a question:

I installed a no name brand oil catch can, and I got fuel hoses to connect it. Somehow there seems to be a light "hiss" coming from one of the tubes or the can itself. Is this normal? Should I use sealant on the connecting points?

 

what type of catch can? the DIY type? or an aftermarket? are there threaded parts on it? if so, i would use teflon tape to wrap the threads in to seal off any air flow... also, did you use worm clamps on the hoses? if so, make sure those are tight...

 

Yea it's a "no brand name" catch can. I used sealant on the hoses... I don't know if that's okay. There are worm clamps and they're on pretty tight. I'll try some teflon tape on it tomorrow... so the hissing isn't normal?!

 

i'd only use teflon tape on threads if there are any where the arms that connect to the hoses thread into the body of the catch can... i wouldn't use it where the hoses slide onto the catch can as this would be useless...

the hissing could be normal... if i remember correctly, the PCV nozzle coming from the valve cover has a slight hiss when at idle under vacuum... this would be the hose that comes up from the valve cover and not the one going onto the plenum... if this is where your hiss is coming from, it's normal... if it's coming from the catch can or it's connections, this is not normal...

 

Thanks buddy, I know there's is a hissing sound from the passenger side of the engine bay, and I think that's where the hissing is coming from. I'm still going to add some tape to it to ensure a good seal. Thanks for your help... I needed some reassurance.

 

you're very welcome... also, to be certain of where the hiss is coming from, you can move the hose from side to side where it connects to the PCV nipple... it will change pitch if this is the source of the hiss... if the sound does not change or cease when doing this, then your leak is somewhere else and you'll want to find it...

 

Just it confirm, capping off the area below the manual valve is not enough for the new design. Air also seeps in and out of the valve itself?

 

that is correct... epoxy is the only "easy" way to resolve the new valve design...