Anybody know anything about the Tilton clutch and Flywheel???
1. I searched and found a little bit of info on the Tilton clutch and flywheel. I was wondering if very many people use this brand or not. I think I found one person on here that has it. Also I cant find it anywhere for sale on the internet, is it just not a popular brand. Which clutch/flywheel would you guys recommend? Keep in mind that I plan on going Stillen Stage 3 Supercharge in a couple of months.
2. Also, I was wondering how hard it is to change it myself??? and special tools??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know how hard it is to change out.
2. Also, I was wondering how hard it is to change it myself??? and special tools??? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Let me know how hard it is to change out.
Tilton seem to not be user friendly for daily drivers. It's either on or off when engauging and can't be slipped.
2. I installed my own clutch. It's a bit hard if you have no mechanical experience. It's just easier to pay 400 for an install to be honest. You will need quite a few tools to do it properly.
2. I installed my own clutch. It's a bit hard if you have no mechanical experience. It's just easier to pay 400 for an install to be honest. You will need quite a few tools to do it properly.
which clutch did you get??? I just love how that Z sounds in this clip and i would love mine to sound just like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ANRhcgbh0
I think the car in this video is owned by someone here, but idk for sure.
I want a light clutch/flywheel combo that I can noticably feel the difference with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ANRhcgbh0
I think the car in this video is owned by someone here, but idk for sure.
I want a light clutch/flywheel combo that I can noticably feel the difference with.
Originally Posted by Nismo350Z_00
which clutch did you get??? I just love how that Z sounds in this clip and i would love mine to sound just like this...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ANRhcgbh0
I think the car in this video is owned by someone here, but idk for sure.
I want a light clutch/flywheel combo that I can noticably feel the difference with.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W3ANRhcgbh0
I think the car in this video is owned by someone here, but idk for sure.
I want a light clutch/flywheel combo that I can noticably feel the difference with.
PM me if you want a video clip of my car revving with my combo.
I had the tilton combo on my old Z, its definately a very touchy set up but IMHO it had alot more rewards than draw backs, especially if you ever auto X or track your car. Does any one sell it any more because I was probably going to go back to it with my new Z once my stock one cant handle it any more.
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I've used it...it's downright nasty for street use...0 manners whatsoever. Yes its light, but its completely not driver friendly at all, and was designed and intended for all out race cars
Joined: May 2002
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From: Aurora, Colorado
My experience with the Tilton was quIte different. From a user-friendly standpoint, there is a learning curve. After years of driving SCCA GT cars and using full-race clutches, the Tilton "street" setup (with a organic driven disc matched with a sintered carbon metallic disc), was fun to drive. There was a bit of slip, but you had to pay attention to the friction point and not just dump the clutch.
At the track, it was ideal- easy to rev-match on those heel-toe downshifts and quick to the redline upshifts. The biggest problem, in my view, was the amount of wear the organic (black) disc would take over time. Being a small diameter twin-disc clutch, the organic disc would always wear out first. One time it lasted nine months, the other only six.
I looked for replacement parts, but the original vendor elected not to carry them anymore ("only the real racers want them" was the comment) and the cost from Titan was quite high (Tilton isn't cheap). I elected to have both my worn organic street discs replaced with a Kevlar lining and will see if that helps durability the next time I swap clutches.
So the Tilton isn't for everyone. If you're running a high HP/torque FI setup, I'd suggest going with a full-race setup (with two sintered carbon metallic discs), but that means NO slip- you're either in or out! For most street drivers, there are other clutch/flywheel options out there. Changing flywheel/clutch assemblies does take time- particularly if you don't have a lift available.
Hope that helps!
David Muramoto
Editor-in-Chief
Nissan Sport Magazine
At the track, it was ideal- easy to rev-match on those heel-toe downshifts and quick to the redline upshifts. The biggest problem, in my view, was the amount of wear the organic (black) disc would take over time. Being a small diameter twin-disc clutch, the organic disc would always wear out first. One time it lasted nine months, the other only six.
I looked for replacement parts, but the original vendor elected not to carry them anymore ("only the real racers want them" was the comment) and the cost from Titan was quite high (Tilton isn't cheap). I elected to have both my worn organic street discs replaced with a Kevlar lining and will see if that helps durability the next time I swap clutches.
So the Tilton isn't for everyone. If you're running a high HP/torque FI setup, I'd suggest going with a full-race setup (with two sintered carbon metallic discs), but that means NO slip- you're either in or out! For most street drivers, there are other clutch/flywheel options out there. Changing flywheel/clutch assemblies does take time- particularly if you don't have a lift available.
Hope that helps!
David Muramoto
Editor-in-Chief
Nissan Sport Magazine
ah... Tilton. My neck got sore after using it for a few months.
At first I had the rally/street clutch combo, with a organic disc and cerametallic 6 puck solid hub setup. The pedal feel is not as heavy as some single clutch pressure plates and it was pretty comfortable. However, the clutch is what.. 6-8 inches in diameter, which makes it very light, very compact and most of all, very unforgiving during stand-still locomo. Most of the time, I had lots of wheel hop because my tires couldn't grip the road quicker than the clutch catches the flywheel. Car would shake more than drunk girls in the club.
I had the street clutch in naturally aspirated form and had tons, tons, TONS of fun on this thing especially accelerating. After adding turbo, I destroyed it and switched to the rally twin cerametallic solid hub with same pressure plate and accessories.
Now, the rally twin cerametallic was the most unforgiving **** ever. I will not go back to that again as the clutch is terribly brutal from (again) standstill locomo. There are some hardcore drivers out there and it takes a lot of careful clutch modulation to make this thing work. Again, with a 600 lbs/ft rating on the clutch, I still destroyed it with a turbo kit and churning 350 rwhp. I swapped out the discs, floating plates and pressure plate and still destroyed it over the months.
Needless to say, preserving the Tilton clutch is very hard for a clean, streetable drive. If you can handle it, go for it! Otherwise, stick to a streetable clutch as it will NEVER disappoint.
At first I had the rally/street clutch combo, with a organic disc and cerametallic 6 puck solid hub setup. The pedal feel is not as heavy as some single clutch pressure plates and it was pretty comfortable. However, the clutch is what.. 6-8 inches in diameter, which makes it very light, very compact and most of all, very unforgiving during stand-still locomo. Most of the time, I had lots of wheel hop because my tires couldn't grip the road quicker than the clutch catches the flywheel. Car would shake more than drunk girls in the club.
I had the street clutch in naturally aspirated form and had tons, tons, TONS of fun on this thing especially accelerating. After adding turbo, I destroyed it and switched to the rally twin cerametallic solid hub with same pressure plate and accessories.
Now, the rally twin cerametallic was the most unforgiving **** ever. I will not go back to that again as the clutch is terribly brutal from (again) standstill locomo. There are some hardcore drivers out there and it takes a lot of careful clutch modulation to make this thing work. Again, with a 600 lbs/ft rating on the clutch, I still destroyed it with a turbo kit and churning 350 rwhp. I swapped out the discs, floating plates and pressure plate and still destroyed it over the months.
Needless to say, preserving the Tilton clutch is very hard for a clean, streetable drive. If you can handle it, go for it! Otherwise, stick to a streetable clutch as it will NEVER disappoint.
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