I was just cruising Nissan's website today and I came across a base LeMans Sunset for a good price. Someone snatched it up before I even had a chance to call about it. I have been thinking about one road car, one track car for quite some time, which leads to my question....

Which model would you build a track car around? I know that there is a model aptly named "Track", but is that really the best car for a track car? Here's where I insert my opinion...

By track I mean road course racer, not a dragger or a drifter. Now when we look at the Track (capitalized when I'm talking about the car) model, there is a $7,000+ difference between that and the Base model Z. For this $7,000+, the buyer gets slightly larger wheels, Brembo Brake system, VDC, a viscous limited slip, tire pressure sensors, various other goodies, and a heavier car ofcourse. I would make the case that a Base + $7,000 in appropriate mods would eat up a Track model at the track. All things equal, I think a Base Z with coil overs ($1650), lighter wheels ($2000), a Kaaz limited slip ($1350???), AEM/Injen intake ($200), Injen exhaust ($900), a lighter flywheel ($900), and some upgraded rotors and pads ($500) would stick it to the "Track" model. That's $27,056 for the car and $7,500 for the mods, bringing the total to $34,556. Not a bad deal if you ask me.

Now there are several other trim levels for the Z and I'm wondering what everyone thinks is the best mix of factory upgrades and good ol' fashioned value to create a racer around. Later.

-Danny

 

If your building a track car then BASE model. If your just gonna track and don't plan on building/changing stuff then TRACK model.

 

For what you want, the base is probably the way to go, but you will want more than just upgraded pads and rotors. However, on the G35 forums, you can usually find the factory brembos for 1500-2500

 

Yea I definitely know that the brakes would have to be upgraded. That's just what I'd do with the extra $7k difference.

I'm only at the hypothetical stage of this project. I'm not sure I want to tear apart such an expensive car.

I may actually race a Sentra. It's very cost effective and very fun.

 

The Track is the best right out of the box and the brembos are fine for track use, but if u are goign to do a significant amout of mods to the car and really don't want VDC, which sounds like it would not help you much if u have expearance one the track, get a base or Enthusist.

The Enthusist will only really give you the LSD and the HID's ... so hop that helps

Also I am about to replace mine b/c of a track accident and I either getting a Track or Enthusist, which ever I can get at the best value

 

there are at least three groups who are currently racing 350Z's on a national level. All of them have posted here and their comments and insights have been enjoyable and helplful.

1. Downshift. He has built a race car and in the process has developed parts to sell.

2. Mike Cronin races out of So Calif for Stewart Racing/Performance Nissan. Jeff355 posted a number of pictures of the build up.

3. TC Kline is racing in the SCCA T2 class.

All of the above have posted here and have the experience of building up a 350Z race car. It seems to be a huge undertaking to prepare and sort out a competitive new car---$$$$$$ I think that $7000. is just a start.

 

thats the thought anyway..but perhaps its more a custom job rather than an off the assembly line nissan job that anyone else can get as well. I think your prices are a little off though here and there for certain things like wheels and flywheel under and over priced in those cases for something decent.

s

 

Prices were just a vague generalization there. I wasn't really sure what everything cost exactly.


Also, I'm well aware of the fact that $7,000 is just the beginning of the work that would need to be performed, but I was just trying to evaluate which model would be best to start with and I used the $7,000 as an illustration of what could be done with $35,000 laid out.

Jackwhale - do you know what model they all began with when they built their racers?

 

I don't know what model. either Downshift or jeff355 could tell you. They both post here frequently and seem to be fairly open in discussing the basics of their operations. My assumption was that the car for each came from their Nissan dealer sponsor, so it could be whichever car was next in line off the boat.

 

If you're doing a road course I would spend the extra few dollars for the VDC it's worthless on the drag strip, but if you really need the traction and handling when cornerring around a road course I'd get thatno need for the leather and sound, etc of the track or touring. The only other suggestion would be to get a base and try to add the VDC. But like I said if you're dong straight forward drag racing it's useless.

 

Wrong. You don't want VDC on a road course. Period. If you're driving right and sliding around a track at or near the limits, the rearend will come around a little. The last thing you want is the VDC saying, "Hey, there's something wrong here!" and then start to cut power and selectively brake wheels to try and bring the car back on line. VDC is NOT like traction control in F1.

VDC on the track? Never.

 

After two track days and four autocrosses, here is my opinion:

1. If you want to stay completely stock, and want to have full confidence in the brakes, go with the track model. This would probably be a good choice only for those who want to compete in sanctioned racing in an unmodified class.

2. If you plan on doing any mods that would take you out of the stock class, then you should go a cheap as possible depending on how many changes you'd like to make.

I would personally recommend the Enthusiast model for the following two reasons:
Cruise Control
Xenon Headlights

IMO, the limited slip is pretty good (I've never run into inside tire slip), but maybe with some really sticky tires you'd get some slippage, so for aguments sake I'll consider this a wash and not include it in the advantages of the Enthusiast model.

VDC is no good on the track, because it pulls power after a small slip. Therefore, you loose the ability to manually recover from a slide, as well as any ability to purposely try and rotate the rear around. Furthermore, when you do slip and recover, there is a split second delay before you can get back on the power. While the VDC will keep you safer, it will definitely take you out of contention for top times. If you are condering modding your car at all for improved performance, then you'll be turning this feature off when you race and it will be useless.

The non-brembo brakes work well even on demanding tracks, but they do exhibit some fade. I think you could be very happy tracking the car with the non-brembo brakes, but for full confidence, I'd get an aftermarket kit.

If I were to buy with the primary intent of racing/driving, and didn't care about the features on the Performance model (like TPS, VDC, or 18" wheels), then the following is what I'd do:

Enthusiast model
Stoptech 13" front brake kit - $2000
NISMO S-Tune with Sways - $2000
Borla Exhaust (or Injen if you like the looks) - $1000 (max)

My "Stage 2" additions would be the following:
Intake Manifold with improved flow distribution (that keeps the strut bar)
Equal Length Headers
Intake that actually makes gains

I personally bought the Performance model because I like the techno stuff, and because I like VDC on the street, but if I wanted the best performance for the buck, I'd go with the Enthusiast model instead (I gotta have cruise control, so no Base for me)

-D'oh!

 

I have the Enthusiest for the LSD. I run 255/40/17 and 275/40/17 race Yokahomas (soon to be Toyo race RA-1) on 8.5 inch wide wheels (yea they are narrow, but working on that too). I have not had any significant tire slip with the stock LSD - although it has tried. I did not notice any difference with the Traction Control on the track, but it is deadly on the street. It will cut your power just as you need to add power when the rear comes around. Auto crossing could not use TCU. Anyone have a way to permanently turn it off?

 

VDC has an on off switch does it not?

 

VDC does have an off switch, but if you're not going to use it, there's no need to have it. It must add some weight somewhere.

Similarly, I would turn off street traction control at the track anyway.

As far as the LSD, I would definitely get a Kaaz adjustable unit over the stock viscous unit anyway. The Kaaz at 60% lockup is still quiet on the street except for parking lot driving, and it will work great at the track. If you're a badass you can always go to 80%.

D'oh - I like your opinions very much and I share them basically, except I don't need cruise or xenon, so I would just use the base and pocket the $1500.

And for the final tidbit of news: I picked up a super black base model with 22 miles to start the project! It's gonna be a slow transformation as I don't have any sponsors and its just for recreation, but I'm definitely gonna have some fun with it. I'm in the process of breaking it in and I have about 500 miles on it now (in the last 3 days). Wish me luck! and thanks to everyone for the input.

Dan

 

All began with the Track model.

 

my humble opinion:

If you dont want any trouble, just put race tires on a track model.

if you are building a race-car (not just a solo car) then buy the cheapest (model)car you can find and build it. heck, even better, buy a crashed Z and fix it up (the chassis never stays straight anyway after a few races).

that estimate of "$7k" or what-not is way off, you have to factor in $$ spent for installs,shipping, taxes and such. unless you do all the work yourself, that 7k doubles up pretty fast., + $3k just for safety equipment (seats, harnesses, cage).

I think the most common mistake people do when getting into racing is going in only looking at mods and $$. the first thing you have to do is decide what you want to do with the car, eg. which series you want to race in, or just solo 1-2, then look at class rules, THEN look at mods.

regards,
Liam

ps. in canada there is only $2-2.5kUS difference between the worst model and the best model (touring, perf, track) so I'd say that it is worth it to go track if you plan on tracking the car.

 

I didn't factor in safety equipment because I would need it for both the track model and the base model so that point is mute. The price difference would remain the same.

I was generous on the prices and I would do all those installs myslef or have friends do them because they are basically just bolt on.

So I don't think my estimate was off, and I'm aware of class rules. I was just throwing the question out there.