ok, so i just got the car back from the dealer with new v2 engine swap from oil problems. got it home ok. took it to school ok, but on way back made a turn and car feels like its gona die. i try to drive it and it wont go any higher than 2500 rpm, so i asume limp mode. what could cause this. from what i have read it could be the maf. i took off intake and sprayed comp air like u use on computers to clean it and reset the battery. basically why would this happen out of no where and what else should i do if it limps on me again. the last thing i want to do is take it to dealership if i really dont have to. thanks 4 any info.

 

if its under warranty take it to the dealer. if not get it scanned somewhere for codes and then go from there

 

E.D can cause limp mode

 

well like i said i dont want to take it it cause of taking off the kit and test pipes. would i have to have a check engine to get a code cause there was no light or nothing. the wires on the maf them selves are another story though. on one i can see the copper. this is why im just lost as to why car would do this after 30 miles or so then work fine with ecu reset. could the maf harness cut out if it hit metal from my strut bar on the wire? does anyone know price on new harness cause dealer told me maf was like 650! id rather just try a new harness. thanks 4 imput though. and yea, this car probably does haveE.D.

 

+1 you might try a more attractive partner also, this may help

 

God you guys can be dicks sometimes.

 

Compressed air down the intake tube isnt going to fix anything. If you recently made any changes to your intake (re-oiled the filter, adding new system, etc) then it is possible some oil got on the MAF sensor thus causing the problem. To properly clean it off, you need to buy some MAF cleaner (approx $7 at your local auto parts store). Just spray some of that onto the sensor (careful not to touch it) and that should do the trick. BUT, this would only likely be the cause if you are running a non-OEM setup.

What changes have you made recently? It is best to get the code checked before resetting it. You never know if it was something critical or not.

 

We try.

Not to insult you, but have you searched?


https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ight=limp+mode

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ight=limp+mode

https://my350z.com/forum/showthread....ight=limp+mode

 

too much or not enouch alcohol and an ugly girl

 

fat girls = limp mode

 

the car has hks true dual. test pipes and aem dry filter intake. what i had done was convert the cold air to short ram and the test pipes back to cats so i could do the oil test to get a new engine. well 2000 miles i got the new engine. drove it home and ran just fine. straight home 15 miles then started putting car back together with cold air and test pipes. exhaust had small leak so i covered gap with silcon gasket maker. other than that nothing seemed wrong. then when i went to school and made a turn it went into limp mode. i thought it might have been when the dealer put back on intake they really stretched harness for the maf, enough to where the copper wire was showing on one of them. so far like i said i did read and some ppls just cleaned maf and reset ecu and it working so far. i just dont know why it would just do it. and no light came on for a code.

 

Like stated above compressed air is not going to clean the MAF, go to an automotive parts store and get MAF cleaner. Also it's very easy for a technician to leave one of the many sensors disconnected or loose on the engine, especially on a big job like removing the engine. If it was a critical sensor the ECM uses to keep the engine running then that could cause the engine to go into limp mode. My advice is to take it back to the dealer.

 

this thread is just chock full o' good quotes lol

 

A car goes into limp mode when its not receiving the right voltages readings from sensors. Most limp mode situations on a z are from the MAFS.

now if you have a volt meter, do a voltage and ohms test on the mafs. If you dont, get a friend to do it. if you dont have any friends that can do it, get a shop to do it.

i forgot the exact specs but i beleive on idle, the voltage reading should be between .8-1.4 v. do more research, youll find it.

i hope i helped a little. lol. i just came from work and im tired and i might not know what im talking about. hahah

 

You have a leak in your cold air intake tubing. Go throw the stock intake on.

 

.

 

yea, thanks for all the advice. Blowing air on it probably did nothing, but maybe taking apart the entire thing and reasembling the intake inclucing the maf wire harness did something. Still worries me that it could happen again at any time. Now all i have to worry about is sanding out my back bumper exhaust slots on the veilside kit cause the exhaust keeps rubbing on it and makeing the most annoying sound you ever heard. Sounds like the car is falling apart in the rear end Seems like no matter how much it gets sanded the exhaust gets further apart night after night.