Wett3fitty

I just purchased my first Z last weekend ( finally ) and got the clutch replaced just a couple days ago. I was wondering how long the break in period typically is...

Rommy

iTrader: (8)

Ugh, why'd you have to get the stock clutch? It sucks so much. Well, a lot of people say 800 miles, but honestly I'd do 1200 to be safe. If you had gotten a better clutch the break-in could've been as low as 600 miles.

Wett3fitty

I know, I've heard the stock clutch is one of the weakest things about the car... But seeing as how i purchased it used just a week ago, the previous owner replaced it at his cost.

chaparro78

iTrader: (2)

depends on the driver and how bad he/she dogs the car. i have close to 80k miles on my stock clutch, 65k of that was with a supercharger. If you are going to beat the car, doesnt matter if you have a stock clutch or an aftermarket clutchmasters racing clutch, you going to wear it out.

350 Rookie

iTrader: (29)

wrong

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Don't baby the clutch ---be cool first few times--Let it find it's "home" -Then let it rip. Teach it how you want it to perform....That dosen't mean abuse it, it just means dont baby it

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

there's nothing weak about the stock clutch... either this is a common misconception or people just spreading FUD (fear uncertainty and doubt)

Take it easy for a while while you get used to the car, 500 miles should be plenty

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

"Weak" would be incorrect. That's probably a misconception coming from a generation of drivers more used to F/F drivers with I-4's and half the torque of the VQ, who can slap in an AM clutch, misuse or abuse it and still get away with 60-80k plus miles on it.

It is however questionable whether the stock clamping force is adequate for more aggressive driving and hard use. That's not FUD, that is opinion based on my personal experience - 5 years of combined 350Z and G Coupe use under conditions from DD to Track, AutoX. Quality just "OK", it would be fair to say it's good but not exceptionally durable. I've gone through one, and it was very toast for the mileage.

I am much happier with the 1200 kg clamping force JWT (L3503-NC000). The engagement is more positive, and while it takes more effort to disengage, it's still very street-friendly. It does have a bit more break-in, if only for the driver to get used to it.

Another issue that is not FUD or misconception is the frequency and expense associated with allowing the dealer free rein to replace the FW as part of a clutch repair. It's an expensive unit with a list of ~$1100, and I personally know several people who have been asked to pre-authorize OEM FW replacement as part of a simple clutch replacement with relatively low miles. I can only guess "why", when the unit can be machined, and/or replaced with AM FW alternatives if you're willing to drop the dual-mass FW. Paying over $1600-1800 for a "clutch replacement" is absurd in a mass-produced Nissan. My JWT clutch and FW were $800, plus about 4 hours for installation.

For ~$400 vs. the $300 for a complete OEM replacement kit, I believe JWT is a better choice if that's the type of clutch you're comfortable with. Just like the JWT FW, however, it's not for everyone.

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

I agree with what you've posted, particularly with the observation that in general it's a waste to replace a stock clutch with a stock clutch.

But, all too many people are replacing the stock clutch BECAUSE of FUD not because they have a faulty unit or because they have worn it out.

SteveZ

iTrader: (3)

Well, like replacing anything that works fine just "because", that makes no sense at all. People will listen to anything if it fits their preconceptions, but I agree with your facts, that's very consistent with my experience.