Engine overheating....
#1
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Engine overheating....
well guys, happened about 2 weeks ago, i was driving home and i noticed nothing was wrong. and then when i was about 10 seconds away from my house i find my engine temp almost at H. i pull over and check to see if theres any smoke. couldnt see anything, so i start the car again and the engine temp is back to normal, i drive it around for a little bit, never hitting above 2500 rpm and notice the engine temp is going up again, so i park it and turn it off. i dont see any fluid dripping so i figure i would just leave it overnight and see what happens in the morning. i look at my car the next day and see coolant all over the floor. i assumed it was a cracked radiator because i tried adding water to the radiator and saw that it was leaking fluid. so i went and bought a new radiator. we installed the new radiator today and i still have the same problem. temperature will go to normal in idle and then the fans would blow pretty hard in idle. no heat coming out of the heater either. i take it for a test drive and the same thing happens, temp is normal in idle and once the car goes forward the temperature rises again. no fluid leak from the new radiator however...
so we try bleeding the system, making sure no air is in the system, see if that helped... no luck still overheating once the car is in motion. we are starting to think that it is the thermostat. so were buying one tomorrow and see if that helps. but does anyone else have any more suggestions on what this can be? temp is normal in idle and rises once in motion and the fans turn on loud while in idle but temp never goes up. any input or suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
so we try bleeding the system, making sure no air is in the system, see if that helped... no luck still overheating once the car is in motion. we are starting to think that it is the thermostat. so were buying one tomorrow and see if that helps. but does anyone else have any more suggestions on what this can be? temp is normal in idle and rises once in motion and the fans turn on loud while in idle but temp never goes up. any input or suggestions would be appreciated. thanks.
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If you dont have any heat you probably have a problem with the heater core. Heat is generated by the coolant circulating through the heater core. If no heat, no coolant circulation, which means the coolant is not circulating to the radiator.
That would be my guess. Check hoses and the heater core.
That would be my guess. Check hoses and the heater core.
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Originally Posted by Rotary
If you dont have any heat you probably have a problem with the heater core. Heat is generated by the coolant circulating through the heater core. If no heat, no coolant circulation, which means the coolant is not circulating to the radiator.
That would be my guess. Check hoses and the heater core.
That would be my guess. Check hoses and the heater core.
would that have something to do with the engine overheating though? i checked hoses and everything seems good.
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I've not seen one of these cars go through a heater core yet
What does the overflow look like? When the car is cold, and you remove the rad cap, is the radiator full?
edit - you have air in the system. There is a bleed valve on the back of the engine, passenger side, on a coolant pipe. Follow the factory service manual instructions and you'll be good. A fullel (any kind works) will help, but the bleed procedure is essential
What does the overflow look like? When the car is cold, and you remove the rad cap, is the radiator full?
edit - you have air in the system. There is a bleed valve on the back of the engine, passenger side, on a coolant pipe. Follow the factory service manual instructions and you'll be good. A fullel (any kind works) will help, but the bleed procedure is essential
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-18-2008 at 05:43 AM.
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Since you replaced the radiator, you have air in your cooling system. When refilling the
radiator air pockets form and while the radiator appears full there is still air somewhere.
Search for a post from Sharif at Forged Performance. This is always a problem in
a situation like yours and it can be easily corrected. He uses a special funnel to fill
the radiator while the engine is running or you might be able to purge the air a couple
of different ways. Just search overheating and you should see the post recommending
a solution. No hot air from heater means air!!!!
radiator air pockets form and while the radiator appears full there is still air somewhere.
Search for a post from Sharif at Forged Performance. This is always a problem in
a situation like yours and it can be easily corrected. He uses a special funnel to fill
the radiator while the engine is running or you might be able to purge the air a couple
of different ways. Just search overheating and you should see the post recommending
a solution. No hot air from heater means air!!!!
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Originally Posted by SpoilsofWar
That is the absolute last thing I would suspect.
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Originally Posted by Category5
You're not flattering yourself. What do expect will happen when your water pump fails? Angels start to sing? Hmmm, do you think maybe water leakage and immediate temp-rise??? Note: If it wasn't for the water leakage, I would have suggested fan belt broke. I guess you would have been stunned by that one too.
I suspect my the OP's posts, that the water leak is gone as a result of the radiator change, and as such, air is the most likely candidate - its proven time and time again in the vast majority of instances
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-18-2008 at 09:54 AM.
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Originally Posted by Category5
Note: If it wasn't for the water leakage, I would have suggested fan belt broke. I guess you would have been stunned by that one too.
The water pump in this engine is timing chain driven. If its not spinning, you've got lots of other issues. So unless all the impeller fins broke off a la Volkswagen, I am going to have to disagree with you.
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Originally Posted by imseksy
we tried bleeding the system for air as well too, still the same problem... i think it may be the thermostat.... what do u guys think?
However, how long did you try bleeding the coolant system for? Are you certain you were using the correct method? Air pockets can be very stubborn in these engines and can take a bit to work out. And if you aren't using a spill free funnel, you are making the job a lot harder then it has to be. I suggest you go read some of the overheating and coolant purge threads in the FI section, there is lots of good info in there - to include tips and tricks on getting the air out of your cooling system.
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Originally Posted by SpoilsofWar
The thermostat could certainly be a suspect... When the car is warmed up, touch the upper radiator hose. If its cold, your Tstat is stuck shut.
Originally Posted by SpoilsofWar
However, how long did you try bleeding the coolant system for? Are you certain you were using the correct method? Air pockets can be very stubborn in these engines and can take a bit to work out. And if you aren't using a spill free funnel, you are making the job a lot harder then it has to be. I suggest you go read some of the overheating and coolant purge threads in the FI section, there is lots of good info in there - to include tips and tricks on getting the air out of your cooling system.
9.9 times out of 10, it's an air issue
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 09-18-2008 at 05:22 PM.
#17
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A big +1 on that as it took me an hour and a half to get what i thought was the last air pocket out.I had heat and everything seemed normal until i drove it the next day.Driving to work it was fine but on the way home in a traffic jam.......quess what the temp gauge started creeping up.
As soon as i parked i got some more antifreeze and burped her 2 more times and since then all is good.
As soon as i parked i got some more antifreeze and burped her 2 more times and since then all is good.
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
I had this on my car when we first built the engine. It took us literally hours to burp it! Originally though it was the t stat, but turned out to just be gas
absolutely ^
9.9 times out of 10, it's an air issue
absolutely ^
9.9 times out of 10, it's an air issue
+100, same problem to the "T". Search the forum for the procedure. I believe you warm to normal opp temp, turn heat on full, and open purge valve SLOWLY while someone else blips the throttle.