Blueprint and Balance (Engines)
#21
i don't advertise my service here,so i have no reason to share my hard work with other shops with substandard build quality.my blueprints are for me to advance MY customers cars.i provide all specs to the customer,and like i said before if they choose to share,they paid for and own the blueprint for their motor and can do as they wish.my whole point on this forum is no shop does the work neccessary to build a true "built" engine and to date only one customer has admitted to having been provided a blueprint(half of one anyway).if you pay $12k for a motor,there should be ample verification that the motor has been built to the highest standard.from what i can see here,"re-builders" are slapping race parts in a block and calling it a hp engine.which in my opinion is the shortest route to disaster possible,and considering the failure rate of vq's seems to be the case.think about it,the best motors they put out are the ones that they do the least work to.that tells you a whole lot about who you are dealing with around here.i would suggest mandatory reading for anyone buying a built motor would be "engine blueprinting" by rick voegelin.for $20 bucks you can read up and at least know what a true hp build should include,instead of taking these morons word for it.btwy i tried scanning my blueprint sheets (blank) months ago and posting them up,but the files where to large,so don't accuse me of holding back.....i did try.the $20 bucks for the book is not only a good idea for potential customers to better understand what's involved in a real build,but maybe should be looked over by the shops advertising on here.they might spend less time defending themselves and more time enjoying phone calls from happy customers.if they already have the knowledge......the question is why are they not using it?hint : time is $$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$.bottom line is........if you as the customer don't demand perfection you will continue to have half-assed shops build you half-assed motors and the pissing,wining and finger pointing will continue.(which is the whole point of my participation).now i'm getting weary of begging you guy's to care,so this will be the last post of mine on this topic(unless the rv saleseman comes out of retirement)mods.........please strip him of his sponser status,he has no shop,is not a mechanic,builder or auto professional in any definition of the term and in my opinion has done more harm than good in this forum.his sponsor title gives him credibility that he has not earned nor deserves.
#22
Don't get me wrong I'm not attacking you. I have read all the threads where you try to call out all the engine builders and it falls on deaf ears ( there are lots of times this happens, then the huggers jump in ) . It just sounds a little hypocritical that you want people to put this info out there, yet you don't want the consumers to know what the right build should look like. On the other hand I understand you don't want to give your competiters the info either. Why do you keep bringing up that your a builder if you don't want to identify who you really are for some credibility? Yes I know you are not looking for buisness. If your files were so big I'm sure there are plenty of people that could resize them to fit the forum. You may be capable yourself to do this. We all know you have a problem with a certain person and sponser here. As far as stripping him of his status that will never happen unless the shop wants it. Lets face any sponser can have anyone represent them and call themselves what ever they want. Keep in mind I have nothing to do with GTM. I'm sorry to say it's a bad cop out to use this as an excuse imo.
#23
if you know what you are doing you can make big power with a frankenstein motor,but blueprints are what develops a platform efficiently.the vq is fairly new,but there should be a substantial documentation by now.right now there is one...first post(which is only a partial)
I know in the old days we didn't have easy access to fancy machines to balance the crank. So we spent time balancing the rods and pistons ourselves and then sending them to a larger town for the final balance. Once the crank was balanced, we stayed with rods and pistons for that crank. Thats all we had. Neutral balance fly wheel and harmonic damper.
The term "balanced and blue printed" meant nothing more that documenting the build and balancing the rotating assembly. How well the final assemly was balanced was left up to the guy doing the balancing. I can send a rotating assembly in for a balance and I'll get just that, but how well they did it is another story, I want to know the final numbers, I didn't see that.
And quite frankly the OP numbers looked too good. I would expect a little swish here and there. When I see perfect numbers, I start to question their methods.
I know from building Pontiac motors that the bearing sizes come in fixed ranges, no extras slip in sizes to compensate for real world tolerances. So unless you want to buy several boxes of bearings to find ones that match, you had better be ready to do some machine work. Maybe the Nissan motors and the things that the after market folks sell are better in tolerance than what I'm used to. Maybe you could fill me in on what going on in the real world of building today, I'd like to know, it's been about five years since I've built up a motor, are they really getting that good?
Please don't take this as a flame towards you, it's not meant to be, I think we are agree on something, I've not read you're other posts, but it seems others have trouble with hearing the truth.
#24
Maybe I missed something from the original post, but all I saw was diameters, whoopy. I would expect that any one building my engine would tell me up front what those were going to be and why he choses them.
I know in the old days we didn't have easy access to fancy machines to balance the crank. So we spent time balancing the rods and pistons ourselves and then sending them to a larger town for the final balance. Once the crank was balanced, we stayed with rods and pistons for that crank. Thats all we had. Neutral balance fly wheel and harmonic damper.
The term "balanced and blue printed" meant nothing more that documenting the build and balancing the rotating assembly. How well the final assemly was balanced was left up to the guy doing the balancing. I can send a rotating assembly in for a balance and I'll get just that, but how well they did it is another story, I want to know the final numbers, I didn't see that.
And quite frankly the OP numbers looked too good. I would expect a little swish here and there. When I see perfect numbers, I start to question their methods.
I know from building Pontiac motors that the bearing sizes come in fixed ranges, no extras slip in sizes to compensate for real world tolerances. So unless you want to buy several boxes of bearings to find ones that match, you had better be ready to do some machine work. Maybe the Nissan motors and the things that the after market folks sell are better in tolerance than what I'm used to. Maybe you could fill me in on what going on in the real world of building today, I'd like to know, it's been about five years since I've built up a motor, are they really getting that good?
Please don't take this as a flame towards you, it's not meant to be, I think we are agree on something, I've not read you're other posts, but it seems others have trouble with hearing the truth.
I know in the old days we didn't have easy access to fancy machines to balance the crank. So we spent time balancing the rods and pistons ourselves and then sending them to a larger town for the final balance. Once the crank was balanced, we stayed with rods and pistons for that crank. Thats all we had. Neutral balance fly wheel and harmonic damper.
The term "balanced and blue printed" meant nothing more that documenting the build and balancing the rotating assembly. How well the final assemly was balanced was left up to the guy doing the balancing. I can send a rotating assembly in for a balance and I'll get just that, but how well they did it is another story, I want to know the final numbers, I didn't see that.
And quite frankly the OP numbers looked too good. I would expect a little swish here and there. When I see perfect numbers, I start to question their methods.
I know from building Pontiac motors that the bearing sizes come in fixed ranges, no extras slip in sizes to compensate for real world tolerances. So unless you want to buy several boxes of bearings to find ones that match, you had better be ready to do some machine work. Maybe the Nissan motors and the things that the after market folks sell are better in tolerance than what I'm used to. Maybe you could fill me in on what going on in the real world of building today, I'd like to know, it's been about five years since I've built up a motor, are they really getting that good?
Please don't take this as a flame towards you, it's not meant to be, I think we are agree on something, I've not read you're other posts, but it seems others have trouble with hearing the truth.
#25
I know it was rhetorical, but if you haven't seen the FSM for the Z, take a look....lots of bearing combos possible. How you did it with the old Pontiac engines is pretty much how the guys worth using do it today. Some of the equipment is better (not all of it), but there really is no modern secret sauce formula to building an engine for a given purpose and having it stay together. It's more about the person doing it than the components being used. There are plenty of places...well known places in fact, in the VQ world and others (Evo and Subaru especially...some cheesy **** that gets done there), that define a built motor as simply putting off the shelf pistons, rods, etc into a given block. This can work for some, not work for others, but there are no doubts that corners are heavily cut. I know for my own car, there is no way in hell I'd ever run a motor such as that, but never-the-less, those builds are out there.
I'm an old GM man from way back and it's a much younger crowd here spouting off brands I've not heard of. Makes me feel kind of old. But the simple fact is a rotating assembly is just that, sqeezing the last bit out of it is a matter of study and time, building is an art with a solid background in the science.
I know with the old Chevys if I wanted a torque machine, what components to slide with, same with other GM brands. The parts books were out there and mixing and matching was dependent on what you had in mind. Oldsmobile had some of the biggest bores and pin heights were enough that if you wanted to stretch a pontiac and do a little decking, you could run an olds piston with the right heads and build a beast. Not so now, but I would bet that there are still some folks out there dabbling in the playground.
#27
Maybe I missed something from the original post, but all I saw was diameters, whoopy. I would expect that any one building my engine would tell me up front what those were going to be and why he choses them.
I know in the old days we didn't have easy access to fancy machines to balance the crank. So we spent time balancing the rods and pistons ourselves and then sending them to a larger town for the final balance. Once the crank was balanced, we stayed with rods and pistons for that crank. Thats all we had. Neutral balance fly wheel and harmonic damper.
The term "balanced and blue printed" meant nothing more that documenting the build and balancing the rotating assembly. How well the final assemly was balanced was left up to the guy doing the balancing. I can send a rotating assembly in for a balance and I'll get just that, but how well they did it is another story, I want to know the final numbers, I didn't see that.
And quite frankly the OP numbers looked too good. I would expect a little swish here and there. When I see perfect numbers, I start to question their methods.
I know from building Pontiac motors that the bearing sizes come in fixed ranges, no extras slip in sizes to compensate for real world tolerances. So unless you want to buy several boxes of bearings to find ones that match, you had better be ready to do some machine work. Maybe the Nissan motors and the things that the after market folks sell are better in tolerance than what I'm used to. Maybe you could fill me in on what going on in the real world of building today, I'd like to know, it's been about five years since I've built up a motor, are they really getting that good?
Please don't take this as a flame towards you, it's not meant to be, I think we are agree on something, I've not read you're other posts, but it seems others have trouble with hearing the truth.
I know in the old days we didn't have easy access to fancy machines to balance the crank. So we spent time balancing the rods and pistons ourselves and then sending them to a larger town for the final balance. Once the crank was balanced, we stayed with rods and pistons for that crank. Thats all we had. Neutral balance fly wheel and harmonic damper.
The term "balanced and blue printed" meant nothing more that documenting the build and balancing the rotating assembly. How well the final assemly was balanced was left up to the guy doing the balancing. I can send a rotating assembly in for a balance and I'll get just that, but how well they did it is another story, I want to know the final numbers, I didn't see that.
And quite frankly the OP numbers looked too good. I would expect a little swish here and there. When I see perfect numbers, I start to question their methods.
I know from building Pontiac motors that the bearing sizes come in fixed ranges, no extras slip in sizes to compensate for real world tolerances. So unless you want to buy several boxes of bearings to find ones that match, you had better be ready to do some machine work. Maybe the Nissan motors and the things that the after market folks sell are better in tolerance than what I'm used to. Maybe you could fill me in on what going on in the real world of building today, I'd like to know, it's been about five years since I've built up a motor, are they really getting that good?
Please don't take this as a flame towards you, it's not meant to be, I think we are agree on something, I've not read you're other posts, but it seems others have trouble with hearing the truth.
Last edited by go-fast; 11-10-2008 at 08:23 PM.
#28
Go Fast....Its refreshing to hear you speak the truth.I follow your posts and have learned alot from them.I have PMed you in the past and you have always given me good solid answers and I appreciate that. I think I have figured out who you are, but my lips are sealed
#29
Anyway - back to the mystery man - what region of the country? I'm contemplating some things and good sources are sometimes hard to find.
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