On the way home last night (from cruising around) something made a loud SNAP noise whenever I depressed the clutch to downshift. As soon as that happened, the clutch would not release.

I jumped out and check the fluid, as well as underneath the car to see if anything was leaking. Fluid was normal, and the clutch pedal still has pressure, i t just won't return on it's own. I can pull it back up with my foot, and it stays there.

I'm almost positive that it's the clutch fork pivot bolt that snapped. It doesn't surprise me, as the clutch in my car (2003) has always been really stiff. Much stiffer than the newer Zs that I've driven, but I've read that was normal.

Driving home was fun, I just couldn't come to a complete stop. All the rev matching that I do on a daily basis definitely paid off, as I was able to get the car home (35miles) without using the clutch, and without grinding gears.


Our maintenance shop at work has a lift that I can use to fix my car, so it shouldn't be too bad. I plan on getting the SGP chromo pivot ball, so that this won't happen again.

Anything else you would recommend replacing since I will have to pull the tranny out?

-Tim

 

It can b throw out bearing or pilot bushing, u will never know untill u open a tranny. I would think about get the new cluch/ flyweel as well, if yours has many miles on. Also most of brand comes wit throw out bearing n pilot blushin, so u r good to go. Search under my user name I had similar issue, but it turned out my pilot was broke. Hope it helps

 

Get a heavy duty clutch pivot ball from JWT

 

Ok, I got underneath the car to see what was going on.

I can grab the clutch fork and wiggle it all around, easily.

It seems like if I tried, I could even pull it right out of the transmission...

The boot on my slave cylinder got torn whenever the incident happened. The fork started coming out of the transmission, and the little shield that covers the slave, made contact with the rubber boot.

So, based on that info, does it sound like the Clutch Fork Pivot bolt is the culprit?

I need to get some parts ordered soon.

Thanks!

-Tim

 

Anyone? I hope to tear into it this weekend, but I'd like to have the parts ready before hand.

-Tim

 

Got it done today.

Got the car up on the lift, and took the rubber boot off around the clutch fork, I could see that the pivot stud was sheared off flush with the transmission...

I had a friend helping me, and we had the tranny out in less than an hour, and I noticed something that made me very happy.

The clutch pressure plate was bright yellow. Yep, someone had installed an ACT HD Clutch and Prolite flywheel. No wonder my pedal is so stiff, and I can launch the car at 5k and feather the clutch, and not smell a thing.

It truly is a great clutch, and this whole time I thought it was stock. No wonder I was so disappointed when I drove that 08 Nismo.

So, after pulling the trans, we pondered about how we should remove the broken stud from the tranny. Well, we had decided to weld a nut onto the stud, and simply turn it out with a wrench. So, as I'm dragging the welder over, my friend just tries to turn the stud with his fingers, and guess what... It comes right out.

I installed the new part, lubed up the TO bearing and input shaft, and we put that tranny back in place.

I also swapped out the stock rubber clutch line for a stainless line from Forged Performance, as well as a brand new slave cylinder from Nissan, and a bottle of Motul RBF600.

It took about an hour to put the car back together, not bad at ALL. We both agreed that this was actually a pretty simple job, given that you have the right equipment. I have a lift, as well as every tool you could possibly need to get the job done.

After doing a lot of research on here, I felt that bleeding the clutch would be the hardest part. Well, it literally took less than 5min. My friend poured the fluid into the empty reservoir, and after prying the clutch pedal up from the floor, I pumped it about 10 times, then he opened the bleeder, and we just repeated that about 5 or 6 times.

I'm very happy with the results. From the looks of that pivot stud, it had been broke for quite some time, actually. You could see where it was just staying in place, and rubbing on the other half of the stud.

The car is truly a dream to drive right now. I did confirm that I have the CD001 tranny (2003 model), and before this, 3rd gear would grind unless you shifted just right, and also 2nd would be notchy sometimes.

All of that has improved ten fold. Actually, I couldn't get 3rd gear to grind at all tonight.

I will let you know if that lasts.

Overall, I'd rate this job a 4 out of 10, but only if you have the right tools. If I were to do this on jack stands, I'd probably give it a 10 out of 10.

-Tim

 

Glad everything work out. How many miles total were on that transmission? Seems like those OEM pivot ***** start wearing out at about 50K+ miles.

 

You nailed it. ~ 55k miles.

I purchased a replacement pivot ball from Nissan, because I thought that the clutch and flywheel were all stock. If I would've known it was all ACT, I would've ordered a chromo pivot ball.

-Tim

 

Glad that you fixed yours! good job

 

Thanks! I recommend that anyone who has access to a lift, to give this a shot if you want to save some money, and know that it's been done right.

-Tim

 

Hi Tim,
I am pretty sure I have the same problem. I have read the entire thread and just wanted to ask if you had any other suggestions or hints about replacing the pivot to make the replacement as easy as possible. Anything I should keep in mind? Special tools, etc.? I too have access to a lift. Can you possibly link me the parts you used for replacement so I can go ahead and order?

I have attached a video of what my clutch is currently doing. I look forward to your reply and input!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6lVLaytYGVc <--youtube vid

 

BTW - I am at 80,000miles and bought the car new. SO I know I am all stock in that aspect. Thanks again!

 

Yep, that's what mine was doing. An easy way to check, is to either crawl under the car, or put it on your lift, and see if you can wiggle the clutch fork.

You can also remove the rubber boot that surrounds the clutch fork (by pulling on it) and shine a light in there to see what's going on. I did this before removing the transmission, and I could see that the pivot bolt was sheared off.

I don't have a part number off hand, but I just called Nissan and told them it was the clutch fork pivot bolt. He did need my VIN, because there were various lenghts used throughout the years.

Also, take a look at your slave cylinder. When the pivot broke, it allowed my slave to over-extend, and the rubber boot got caught on the little skid plate, which tore it.

I had to replace it.

The Pivot Bolt (which was labeled from Nissan as "Pin Ball") was $8.60 and the slave was ~$40.

It was a pretty easy job to do, and I didn't need any special tools. If I were to do it again, I think my friend and I could finish the job in less than 2hrs.

Good luck!

-Tim

 

Truly a god send....thanks alot this happened to me hours ago... Search bar ftw...ordering parts tomorrow