300HP NA?
11-24-2008, 05:43 PM
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300HP NA?
So I am wanting to do NA mods to my car, but hoping for 300+ at the wheels. I am not wanting to do anything to major though. I am thinking like a plenum, pulleys, headers, test pipes, catback, CAI, and tune. Do ya'll think that will put me to 300hp? I am sure I am going to get flamed for this, but oh well. Kinda going for HP and gasmilage, cause I know gas is going to go back up in price at some point.
11-24-2008, 08:20 PM
#5
boy racer i just got flamed for a n/a fail thread.
https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds-498/
look for the thread made by z1 youll see what 300 to the wheels takes
belive me its not just a bolt on process its not cheap or good for gas eather
good luck
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11-25-2008, 02:16 PM
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So I am wanting to do NA mods to my car, but hoping for 300+ at the wheels. I am not wanting to do anything to major though. I am thinking like a plenum, pulleys, headers, test pipes, catback, CAI, and tune. Do ya'll think that will put me to 300hp? I am sure I am going to get flamed for this, but oh well. Kinda going for HP and gasmilage, cause I know gas is going to go back up in price at some point.
Lots of the most vocal people on this forum don't appreciate NA builds. Check out the separate NA Builds forum and you're find several good threads about people's experiences with NA engines.
11-25-2008, 02:40 PM
#11
It depends on what year Z you have. That might be enough if you have a HR. It's probably not enough if you have a DE or DE RevUp. I made 286whp on a DE RevUp with most of the mods you have listed using a Haltech and getting a real time tune from Jeremy at the Performance Factory. I would have gotten closer to 300 with cams, but by the time you install new cams, you might as well build a new engine, so that's what I did.
Lots of the most vocal people on this forum don't appreciate NA builds. Check out the separate NA Builds forum and you're find several good threads about people's experiences with NA engines.
Lots of the most vocal people on this forum don't appreciate NA builds. Check out the separate NA Builds forum and you're find several good threads about people's experiences with NA engines.
11-26-2008, 04:31 AM
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So I am wanting to do NA mods to my car, but hoping for 300+ at the wheels. I am not wanting to do anything to major though. I am thinking like a plenum, pulleys, headers, test pipes, catback, CAI, and tune. Do ya'll think that will put me to 300hp? I am sure I am going to get flamed for this, but oh well. Kinda going for HP and gasmilage, cause I know gas is going to go back up in price at some point.
It can be done, but will cost you more than a turbo or s/c kit will, just be aware. Getting to 280whp will fell like a whole new car and will probably be what you are looking for.
11-26-2008, 05:29 AM
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When gas was over $4 a gallon and I was short shifting and taking it very easy on the throttle I would get around 22 mpg in the city. Best mpg I ever got in the city was 23. Under my normal driving style I usually get around 14 mpg in the city with alot of full throttle acceleration. 
05-15-2014, 01:39 AM
#19
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I know this post is old. For all you Z owners still owning Z's in 2014, 300RWP with the right 3 or 4 bolt ons & Osiris tune will easily do it.
-Invidia test pipes with 02's (non revup motors will not pop CEL with this pipe)
-An intake that are in the space fwd of the radiator in the bumper section or even a K&N stock airbox (also it is widely stated that the 06 intake set up is one of the best single intakes)
-Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer with thermal couple. Any bigger & strut tower hits & power may decrease. . 5/16 seems to be the magic number
-A good high flow exhaust. After the test pipesor HFC's it goes 2-1 & realistically a single is lighter & a 3.5 would optimize power but is UGLY. A light HF exhaust that puts resinators linear with the pipes & not the perpendicular can at the bumper. The single line should be 3.5 & then an X pipe to 2.5 with tubular in line resinators. The can sound stock with calm driving. Not irritating. Cat backs are 350-1200 & often only difference is name. Inspect your parts!! Look down each tube. Look for obstructions where hangers were welded & especially Y,H & X pipes. Often they leave the intersecting tubing in blocking airflow. Only seen one but it would result in a HP loss.
-I would go with a decent clutch a tad stronger than stock. Our cars are pushing it as is with our clutches & if it's not slipping, if the clutch gets overpowered the slave cylinder goes & the car will stop pulling hard. Z's have had a recall on some clutches & they are famous for failing. Keep your foot on the dead man unless you are shifting a gear! a decent name street clutch rated for 350hp & you will be down there anyway so you might as well go with a lighter flywheel by a trusted company. Stillen & Nismo are backed by Nissan but do your homework. I know nothing about flywheels but they need to be the right weight with your rotating assy.
-Finally an Osiris tune done by a well known Z tuner. I live in the PNW & PSI has a guy who is world famous for tuning Z's. Google Jason Oefelein or google best 350Z tuner in nation. lol
- optional is some aftermarket headers PPE long tubes may get 300 alone or simple DC shortys for 170.OBX makes long tubes for 315. I would do PPE & might if instal is easy & requires no specail mods. I also need the O2 fix built in. I have 17k miles on a show worthy car, no CEL lights. 300RWHP. You will be over 310 with the long tube headers. You might pop 320 or high teens. The tune & parts will also increase fuel economy. The engine will get air easier & won't have to work as hard to pump the exhaust out. Your car is an air pump. You are easing the flow & volume. You also are exacting you fluel ratio throughout the entire band.
The tuner will allow for more fuel consumption when you are getting on it with resulting massive HP gains as a side effect. Calm, cop watching driving will see dratic improvements in economy. You might see an average in the mid 20's. I am high teens stock.
Don't hate for me commenting on an old forum. I stumbled across this goal & others need this info too. If you still have you Z then maybe you know. Also, NASA has opened a Spec Z class that is limiting dyno power to 258 to gen with 17's & it was crazy fast but spinning into 3rd bad & drifting. I got 19X11 in back 9.5 front & handling improved massively & I can mash it in first with a little slip. Also coilovers help. I am looking at 18X10.5 & 18X9.5 front. Kinda like running quicker gears.
-Invidia test pipes with 02's (non revup motors will not pop CEL with this pipe)
-An intake that are in the space fwd of the radiator in the bumper section or even a K&N stock airbox (also it is widely stated that the 06 intake set up is one of the best single intakes)
-Motordyne 5/16 plenum spacer with thermal couple. Any bigger & strut tower hits & power may decrease. . 5/16 seems to be the magic number
-A good high flow exhaust. After the test pipesor HFC's it goes 2-1 & realistically a single is lighter & a 3.5 would optimize power but is UGLY. A light HF exhaust that puts resinators linear with the pipes & not the perpendicular can at the bumper. The single line should be 3.5 & then an X pipe to 2.5 with tubular in line resinators. The can sound stock with calm driving. Not irritating. Cat backs are 350-1200 & often only difference is name. Inspect your parts!! Look down each tube. Look for obstructions where hangers were welded & especially Y,H & X pipes. Often they leave the intersecting tubing in blocking airflow. Only seen one but it would result in a HP loss.
-I would go with a decent clutch a tad stronger than stock. Our cars are pushing it as is with our clutches & if it's not slipping, if the clutch gets overpowered the slave cylinder goes & the car will stop pulling hard. Z's have had a recall on some clutches & they are famous for failing. Keep your foot on the dead man unless you are shifting a gear! a decent name street clutch rated for 350hp & you will be down there anyway so you might as well go with a lighter flywheel by a trusted company. Stillen & Nismo are backed by Nissan but do your homework. I know nothing about flywheels but they need to be the right weight with your rotating assy.
-Finally an Osiris tune done by a well known Z tuner. I live in the PNW & PSI has a guy who is world famous for tuning Z's. Google Jason Oefelein or google best 350Z tuner in nation. lol
- optional is some aftermarket headers PPE long tubes may get 300 alone or simple DC shortys for 170.OBX makes long tubes for 315. I would do PPE & might if instal is easy & requires no specail mods. I also need the O2 fix built in. I have 17k miles on a show worthy car, no CEL lights. 300RWHP. You will be over 310 with the long tube headers. You might pop 320 or high teens. The tune & parts will also increase fuel economy. The engine will get air easier & won't have to work as hard to pump the exhaust out. Your car is an air pump. You are easing the flow & volume. You also are exacting you fluel ratio throughout the entire band.
The tuner will allow for more fuel consumption when you are getting on it with resulting massive HP gains as a side effect. Calm, cop watching driving will see dratic improvements in economy. You might see an average in the mid 20's. I am high teens stock.
Don't hate for me commenting on an old forum. I stumbled across this goal & others need this info too. If you still have you Z then maybe you know. Also, NASA has opened a Spec Z class that is limiting dyno power to 258 to gen with 17's & it was crazy fast but spinning into 3rd bad & drifting. I got 19X11 in back 9.5 front & handling improved massively & I can mash it in first with a little slip. Also coilovers help. I am looking at 18X10.5 & 18X9.5 front. Kinda like running quicker gears.
Last edited by BIGPOPPAPUMP; 05-15-2014 at 02:13 AM.
05-15-2014, 07:32 AM
#20
So basically what you're saying is it is possible to hit 300hp with the DE non-rev?
However you made no mention of a larger diameter intake tube, no larger MAF housing, no larger diameter TB, no porting, or no cams. These things IMO would also be needed to hit 300whp for DE non-rev. The larger TB is still a debated topic. But larger diameter intakes are a must to get anywhere near 300. Like you said, "your car is an air pump," so increasing the volume that more can flow through "pumps" in more air to the plenum. See Bmurray's results on his HR going from factory to 3" intakes....quite simply, it worked amazingly (https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...r-project.html)
However yes, Bmurray was already over 300 but he is an HR. So more realistically, I'll list my mods below. I'm at 261whp and 239wtq, but I'm 5AT so my numbers should actually be closer to ~270-275whp and ~245-250wtq for 6MT...somebody correct me if I'm wrong, I'm just guessing. Jon at Z1 is no slouch at tuning and squeezed everything out he could to get to 261. He even did a couple extra pulls to see exactly how far he could push the timing before I started losing power.
Engine mods:
Motordyne 1/2" spacer
Kinetix V+ plenum
GTM 3" MAF housing
Factory air box with custom fit velocity ring (https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...ed-intake.html)
COBB 3" post MAF hose
Z1 HFCs
Invidia Gemini true dual exhaust
Crawford Z headers
I'm not saying you're wrong or that I know what it takes to hit 300 for a DE non-rev. I'm saying from what you listed, there's no way you'll get to 300whp even if you best Z tuner in the nation. Might be able to if the dyno you're on reads really high and/or is broken and says your Z is putting down 401whp...
See post #10 for a good list of high HP NA builds, and see what it took to get there: https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...non-revup.html
However you made no mention of a larger diameter intake tube, no larger MAF housing, no larger diameter TB, no porting, or no cams. These things IMO would also be needed to hit 300whp for DE non-rev. The larger TB is still a debated topic. But larger diameter intakes are a must to get anywhere near 300. Like you said, "your car is an air pump," so increasing the volume that more can flow through "pumps" in more air to the plenum. See Bmurray's results on his HR going from factory to 3" intakes....quite simply, it worked amazingly (https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...r-project.html)
However yes, Bmurray was already over 300 but he is an HR. So more realistically, I'll list my mods below. I'm at 261whp and 239wtq, but I'm 5AT so my numbers should actually be closer to ~270-275whp and ~245-250wtq for 6MT...somebody correct me if I'm wrong, I'm just guessing. Jon at Z1 is no slouch at tuning and squeezed everything out he could to get to 261. He even did a couple extra pulls to see exactly how far he could push the timing before I started losing power.
Engine mods:
Motordyne 1/2" spacer
Kinetix V+ plenum
GTM 3" MAF housing
Factory air box with custom fit velocity ring (https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...ed-intake.html)
COBB 3" post MAF hose
Z1 HFCs
Invidia Gemini true dual exhaust
Crawford Z headers
I'm not saying you're wrong or that I know what it takes to hit 300 for a DE non-rev. I'm saying from what you listed, there's no way you'll get to 300whp even if you best Z tuner in the nation. Might be able to if the dyno you're on reads really high and/or is broken and says your Z is putting down 401whp...
See post #10 for a good list of high HP NA builds, and see what it took to get there: https://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/5...non-revup.html