Hello Everyone,

I have an 06 Manual Z. I've always liked the MREV2 + 5/16 spacer combo for my revup. Almost all the reviews are great, dynos look good too. I installed this combo along with a Nismo exhaust on my car roughly a year ago. The Sound was amazing! But, after the install, my friend pointed out that he thought my car got slower??

I denied it(dynos, reviews, etc) so I left it on. I also put the 19' RAYS that come off the 07 G35, which are each roughly five pounds lighter.

I decided to see where I truly stand. I called up my friend with a bone stock 06 Base manual Z. He also has 2, 10 inch subs and an amplifier installed in his car.

All fluid levels were about equal.
We made 2 runs, one from 2nd @ 20 and the other from first. We were dead even!!
I had every advantage on my side, lighter wheels, no subs, manifold and exhaust, and still nothing!

This is not the first time where i felt that the car underperformed. Another buddy has an 07 G35, an auto, with the 1/2 inch spacer installed, and we are dead even as well!

I have concluded that the car did in fact get slower! I will take off the manifold mods tomorrow.

My only questions are, will a tune fix everything? I will ask a local shop (S and R performance in Tampa) for an estimate for a reflash.
I'm also looking at the 4.08 final drive swap?

Thanks for reading, any feedback or opinion would be appreciated

-Regul8or

 

Post some time slips of your runs so we can compare.

 

Why dont you dyno yours and you buddys thats stock and compare that way? Or maybe you drive your buddys stock car and have him drive yours and compare again. Its probably just the driver since the mods you have dont give you that much over stock.

 

If you didn't get a reflash you're not taking advantage of the mods functional improvements. Get a reflash.

 

Are u running 93? Do u baby the car all week and then romp on it for one mile on the weekend? You could just have a lower output motor, my friend got an oil consump motor in is 06 Sedan manual and the new motor was night and day from the old motor. Before the new motor we would race (in a cowfield) and I would destroy him....after the new motor it was a more of a even race. His new motor was just a stonger motor.

Alot of things come into play here to just blame it on the MREV/spacer combo. The way the motor was broken in also has alot to do with it. I broke my new motor in redlining it the minute I left the shop and all the way home and with boltons I made 282hp.

If your in Tampa I highly recommend you head over to S&R and get a Uprev Tune from them, it really works wonders. My friend Eric just had his car done there and he gained about 25hp from the tune. He had full boltons including headers and the tune really unlocked all his power.

Or u can forget about the tune and just put on a 100shot and leave boosted Z's in the dust.

 

Thanks for the feedback guys.

The thing is, after I put the manifold mods on, the car just does not perform the same. And as the claims are +20Hp and +30tq midrange, then I should at least see some improvement, but the answer is no.

A tune should free up the remaining power, but even without a tune, I should still see an improvement.

PS. will consider the 100 shot, lol

 

Some dynos and timeslips would be nice. Driver ability makes a difference too.

 

IF you both are not equal drivers then there really is no point.

Take both cars to the same dyno on the same day and you will find out..

Before you start to mod a car.. You should always get a baseline dyno.. I know not everyone has a dyno close.. But, atleast you know where you stand with your mods.

Todd

 

I have been (and arguably still am) in your boat for a while.

You have options other than the the reflash - UTEC, HKS F-con, etc.

These tuning options will be capable of handling further mods (FI) in
the future.

Aside from aural enhancement, bolt-on NA mods are widely known for
producing negative Torque gains, and slight HP improvement.

Definitely baseline prior to piggybacking or flashing your ecu. You'll likely
pickup 5-10% at some point in your power band.

IMO the piggybacks are a better value than reflash...

 

+1 on the dyno.

If you put on a MREV, spacer, exhaust and lighter wheels and then conclude you got slower because of how it compares to other cars in a street race... there are other variables at work.

A street race is not a good way to measure a change of power. There are many, many other variables involved that will affect the results. Driving is a big variable but there are so many others as well. To really know what the change of power is, you need a pre and post dyno against your own engine.

Even when built the same at the Nissan factory there is engine to engine variability as seen on the dyno.

And relative to a street race, the "mood" of your ECU also makes a significant difference. I call it "mood" for lack of a better word but there is what you could call difference levels of performance as determined by the ECU

1) limp mode
2) lazy mode
3) normal mode
4) Performance mode

Some ECU's gravitate toward lazy mode. Some like to stay in performance mode. Some like to shift around seemingly at random.
The ECU is a variable that is almost impossible control without a complete ECU bypass such as an Fcon or other engine management system.

In any case, all of the mods you installed increased your engine power. (Intake, exhaust and lighter wheels.) Even if you aren't driving faster than another car and driver, you are still making more power than your baseline condition.

 

On the dyno I've only seen two mods that decreased torque
1) test pipes lose torque. About 10 TQ between ~1600 to ~2200 RPM. Its a loss in a very narrow RPM range of daily driving cruising. Otherwise test pipes makes excellent gains everywhere else.

2) Some CAI's can measure a loss of 2-3 TQ.

The MD spacer never loses TQ. The MREV2 manifold makes lots and lots of TQ. And a well designed exhaust never loses TQ either.


+1 for dyno on tuning. But until recently, I would have agreed on the piggy back. And in many ways a piggyback is good for things like taking out ECU variability.
But I've seen the Osirus reflash make really good gains. The Osirus reflash can control the intake and exhaust cams. And really good gains can be made by controlling the cams.

The Fcon piggyback can't do anything with the cams. (I know, I have one too.)

Ideally it would be great to have both an Fcon and reflash but since that is not practical for most people, my suggestion would be an Osirus reflash. It will make the most gains.

 

Osiris is not popular in sofla... Yet. I have heard and
Read great things, but have never spoken w an owner nor
Rode in an na Osiris tuned car. Great info.

 

Just because Osiris isn't popular in your area yet doesn't mean it isn't good.

As more and more Osiris tuners come on board you will see Osiris increase its popularity. Osiris is the only tuning product capable of completely tuning a RevUp or newer VQ engine by itself. Most high-end turbo cars use Osiris to flash the ECU to control things the piggyback or standalone can not control. The builders just don't talk about it much.

 

^ Exactly... I have been putting off a piggy back for years,
but I have seen positive Osiris feedback build quickly. Is S&R
in Tampa an Osiris tuner? Perhaps the next time i am in Central
FL......

 

shop in Tampa/Sarasota has Osiris finally. fair prices too.

 

check your floormat... maybe its stuck under your go pedal...

 

Yes, S&R Performance is an Osiris Pro Tuner shop. S&R is holding a Technology Day on January 25th at 12:00 noon.Anyone is invited to come.

https://my350z.com/forum/south-east/...ml#post6802174

The link shown above is to the S&R Performance Technology day meet. If you want to go, please sign up. That will give a better idea about how many people are coming.

 

+1

^^^ My situation. Very satified with the Orisis/Utec combo.

 

This just made me laugh. We dont drive our cars on dynos. If he couldnt beat a stock car with his modified car, then whatever power gains the dyno says are irrelevant, bc its still not any faster.

Of course, I agree, in order to quantify gains you need before/after dynos. But in the real world, if the you dont/see a difference on the road, its money not well spent.

 

first off the claim is not that you are guaranteed to get 20/30 just that others have. And dynos for these products have been consistent so I wouldn't doubt that you would either.

second, have you ruled out mechanical issues? did you purchase the kit new? who installed it? might you have a vacuum leak, what is your idle like?

third, what comparison do you have to your friend's car before your mods? did you race him stock?


these threads never really get the answer that the poster is looking for... there are just so many reasons and you have no data (dyno, time slip, etc) other than a subjective 'race' that also didn't give data. A driver's ability makes a HUGE difference in the Z. just look at the stock times... you can get from 14.3 to 13.6, stock. do you know what a big difference that is? and that is on the same car in some cases as well.

most likely you put it on upside down. easy fix, just flip the car over. (this last one was a joke FYI)