Cars stalls when shifting to neutral when driving...
Just incase someone didnt read the title.....
, ive noticed lately that when im preparing to stop i shift my car into neuctral and sorta coast to a stop. Then i soon realize that my car stalled out. Whats gives?
It did it about 4-5 times today, and i used to think that for some reason i let out the clutch too soon but i tested it out on 6th gear and not as hard as i thought to stall out when coasting to a stop letting the clutch out a little bit to try and stall it.
I want to think its whenever i have the Traction Control off but i havent fully tested it out yet.
It happened only a couple times since i had the car but now it seemed to do it more frequently.
Anyone familiar with a problem like this at all? Or am i just retarded and im screwing up somehow.
(just a little FYI, i did just start getting the infamous 3rd gear synchro grind in the rare instance that uts somehow causing me to stall out every now and then.) Thanks for the help.
It did it about 4-5 times today, and i used to think that for some reason i let out the clutch too soon but i tested it out on 6th gear and not as hard as i thought to stall out when coasting to a stop letting the clutch out a little bit to try and stall it.
I want to think its whenever i have the Traction Control off but i havent fully tested it out yet.
It happened only a couple times since i had the car but now it seemed to do it more frequently.
Anyone familiar with a problem like this at all? Or am i just retarded and im screwing up somehow.
(just a little FYI, i did just start getting the infamous 3rd gear synchro grind in the rare instance that uts somehow causing me to stall out every now and then.) Thanks for the help.

Last edited by the_dood; Apr 30, 2009 at 04:43 PM. Reason: rewording
It might have something to do with your MAF sensor?
Your car is basically sucking in all that air then the sensor is tripped when you drop and coast it at such a low rpm. It usually happens when you change to a high flow intake, the filter is loose, or it wasn't reinstalled correctly.
Tighten everything, reset the battery or unplug it overnight. Just one of a few possible variables.
Your car is basically sucking in all that air then the sensor is tripped when you drop and coast it at such a low rpm. It usually happens when you change to a high flow intake, the filter is loose, or it wasn't reinstalled correctly.
Tighten everything, reset the battery or unplug it overnight. Just one of a few possible variables.
It apparently has an HKS suction intake installed on it. Not by me but the previous owner i suppose.
Its always at random times. It might not do it for a couple days, then it might stall out a couple times per day.
But based on your comment, 35oZephyR, ill gun it and see what happens. If it stalls out then it would sound like its the MAF.
Its always at random times. It might not do it for a couple days, then it might stall out a couple times per day.
But based on your comment, 35oZephyR, ill gun it and see what happens. If it stalls out then it would sound like its the MAF.
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That has been a common problem with the pop-charger. I have had it happen to me on a few occasions but only at high rpms and then shifting to neutral. Do what davidv said and just down shift to neutral...or you could put the stock box back on and see if it does it, then you could rule out the MAF.
I also have a HKS Racing Suction intake and my car used to do the same thing. Your upgraded intake allows more air to flow past the mass air flow sensor during idle, so the ECU keeps trying to compensate and stalls the car. Go to Nissan and pay to have an "idle air lean relearn" performed.
Found this via google on a nissan site for an altima, is this also the proper procedure for the 350 as well?
1) Drive the car to "warm up" temperature. Make sure your idle is close to 700 rpm.
2) Ensure any battery draining devices are off. Ie. headlights, interior dome lights, HVAC, stereo.
3) Turn the car ignition key to "OFF"
4) Wait ten seconds
5) Turn the key to "ON" (not start)
6) Wait three seconds.
7) Perform the following five times in five seconds or less. Fully press the gas pedal and release.
8) Wait seven seconds from last of the five releases.
9) Fully press the gas pedal and hold down. Within ten seconds the "Service Engine Soon" light should begin to blink.
10) Wait another ten seconds (while still holding the gas pedal) and the "Service Engine Soon" light should stop blinking.
11) As soon as it stops blinking, release the pedal, start the car and check the idle (should still be around 700 rpm)
12) Let the car idle at 700 rpm or so for about 25 seconds, rev the engine a few times and then let it return to idle.
13) Shut the car down.
1) Drive the car to "warm up" temperature. Make sure your idle is close to 700 rpm.
2) Ensure any battery draining devices are off. Ie. headlights, interior dome lights, HVAC, stereo.
3) Turn the car ignition key to "OFF"
4) Wait ten seconds
5) Turn the key to "ON" (not start)
6) Wait three seconds.
7) Perform the following five times in five seconds or less. Fully press the gas pedal and release.
8) Wait seven seconds from last of the five releases.
9) Fully press the gas pedal and hold down. Within ten seconds the "Service Engine Soon" light should begin to blink.
10) Wait another ten seconds (while still holding the gas pedal) and the "Service Engine Soon" light should stop blinking.
11) As soon as it stops blinking, release the pedal, start the car and check the idle (should still be around 700 rpm)
12) Let the car idle at 700 rpm or so for about 25 seconds, rev the engine a few times and then let it return to idle.
13) Shut the car down.
well i tried it and nothing happened. either its not the right procedure for the 350z or there is something preventing the car from doing it correctly..
any other suggestions?
any other suggestions?
I dont think there is anything u can do but not put it in neutral at higher speeds or go back to stock intake. I myself forget sometimes and it's pretty scary LOL. I have JWT popcharger but this issue happened after the plenum spacer install.
Retry it. The timing is critical.
stolen from another member...
https://my350z.com/forum/6008226-post3.html
stolen from another member...
https://my350z.com/forum/6008226-post3.html
I installed a ported TB yesterday and had stalling plus a 2500+ rpm idle (if it can even be called idle)
Took about 5 or 6 attempts going through the entire procedure but it eventually worked and got my warm idle down to ~1000rpm. I repeated it again and finally hit the sub 800rpm mark.
Took about 5 or 6 attempts going through the entire procedure but it eventually worked and got my warm idle down to ~1000rpm. I repeated it again and finally hit the sub 800rpm mark.
this problem haunted me for months mate. i had so many thing fitted about at the same time which could cause this (kinetix intake, l/flywheel, larger injectors,cams utec, list goes on) after swapping out and relearn at dealer nothing worked. on Friday i drilled a hole in the tb as a last resort...ended up with a 2mm hole. idle now solid at around 850rpm and no more stalling.
Last edited by marra23; May 4, 2009 at 04:47 AM.





