I read all this stuff about HP and dynos but what I really want to know is how to make the Z as quick as possible. I mean, what does getting the max power mean if you can't apply it correctly to the contact patches and the power comes at the wrong time?

What I am wondering is that magic combination of gear ratios, tire and wheel sizes, hp, lightened flywheel, weight reduction, spring rate, etc, to get the Z moving as quickly as possible in the 1/4 mile.

I don't care about gobs of horsepower. I don't care about top speed because I don't want to kill myself. I don't want a car that's gonna blow up on me. I just want quickness and responsiveness off the line and out of corners from a NA Z.

 

I guess it depends how far you're willing to go and how much you want to spend.

You could completely gut the car and leave the car otherwise stock and get a few tenths off the 1/4 mile time.

Does anyone make replacement final drive for our cars yet?

 

How about taking the windshield completely out, the dash, stereo, and insulation???

OK, seriously, I would never gut my own car. When I referred to weight reduction I meant more like rotational weight in the wheels, tires, pulleys, etc. The only thing I would lighten in the interior would be the seats.

I was thinking one could make a quick Z without an enormous amount of power and money. I think adding alot of power just makes the parts of the car more prone to failure.

I had my own list:

Power
1. Crawford Plenum
2. Headers
3. Camshafts
4. Exhaust
5. Mufflers
6. Cold Air Intake

Gearing
1. Change Differential Ratio
2. Change Wheel and Tire circumference.

Reduction of Rotational Mass
1. Underdrive Pulleys
2. Lighter Wheels
3. Lighter Flywheel
4. Lighter Tires

Reduction of Unsprung Weight
1. Lighter Brake Assemblies
2. Lighter Wheels
3. Lighter Strut Assemblies (hmm, is this unsprung??)

Power Delivery
1. Springs
2. Struts
3. Softer Compound Tires
4. Correct Tire Pressure

Static Weight Reduction
1. Carbonfiber Hood

Here are some links I found about this stuff.

http://members.bellatlantic.net/~vze...ightanddyn.htm

http://www.smithees-racetech.com.au/...cefactors.html

http://www.ozebiz.com.au/racetech/theory/wttrans.html

http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/perform.htm

 

Oh, I forget. Perhaps you could make the weight distribute better to the rear when under accelation. I would like to know which suspension set up would allow this.

 

That looks like a pretty complete list. My only note would be that since we already have a lightweight aluminum hood i wouldnt waste my money on a cf one unless your doing it for the look.

 

one word: nawwwwwwws

 

newtkindred

It might be cheaper to buy the ati procharger make gobs of power and not worry about your list. you could do both the list and procharger and have one mean car

 

actually a well made hood will save over 10lbs over stock

 

a qenuine carbon fiber hood has got to be the WORST "bang for buck".....you gotta be a real hardcore racer to get one of those...i think they cost somewhere near a $1g...and you save like 10lbs...

 

I'm opting for the list & the procharger Although maybe by the end of NEXT year I might have those parts on lol

 

I was thinking about the Procharger alot. But I think it may stress the engine. I also wonder if you really need that much power? I like to get more info on the performance of the Z with the Procharger. Do you lose traction on take off? How does it hook up? I also think things start falling apart faster when you start adding alot of power. What is the total price of the Procharger with install and added wear and maintanence on the Z?

Minus the hood, because it is too expensive for the amount of weight savings, I think you can make a quick NA 350Z for less money.

It would seem there could be alot of performance gained just by the gearing and power delivery (tires, spring rates, etc.) for not that much money.

It would be nice if someone made some type of performance/$$$$ matrix comparing NA to FI.

When I mean performance comparison, I am talking mainly about results (1/4 mile times), not horsepower. Gobs of horsepower can be wasted if it is not applied effeciently.

 

well if you are out to make the quickest Z w/out FI, it should be on your to do list.

 

If your really willing to save weight, you can also get full carbon fiber replacement doors, side panels, and a hatch door as well. I can't remember who manufactures them, but your probably looking at paying around 3/4 the price of a base model for the combo. Probably would save around 200 pounds, but for such a high price, you better have a deeep wallet, or a race team with sponsors willing to fork out the $$$.

 

Amuse makes such parts in CF.

 

It seems weight reduction isn't worth the $$$$ in the Z. Maybe over time the prices will come down when there are more options available.

 

90/10 Adjustable Shocks will distribute the weight the best to the rear. They go up fast and come down slow and are adjustable for daily driving. The faster the front end pops up the faster the weight is thrown to the rear...I haven't found these shocks for 350's yet though. Mostly see for sale for domestics. KONI may have some I haven't had time to check yet.

 

Here's the easy-low-13's-on-street-tires list for about $3750;

3.9 Final Drive
Tilton Clutch/Flywheel
TS ECU

Here's the easy-high-12's-on-street-tires list for about $6500;

3.9 Final Drive
Tilton Clutch/Flywheel
TS ECU
LaBree Test Pipes
Pulley
Crawford Headers
Plenum

Here's the low 12's list for about $10,000

3.9 Final Drive
Tilton Clutch/Flywheel
TS ECU
LaBree Test Pipes
Pulley
Crawford Headers
Plenum
NISMO Cams
NISMO LSD
NISMO Timing Pulley
Drag Radials

 

light under pulley
light flywheel
light tires i.e. toyo
light wheels 18" i.e. volk
aftermarket lsd i.e. cusco 100% lockup
intake i.e. blitz , injen
headers they dont have to be expensive should be ceramic i.e. DC
la bree test pipes
y-pipe i.e. fujistsubo
cat back i.e. blitz
shorter throw shifter, must be high quality no i.e. still looking

As far as I know this is an inexpensive way to increase bottom end. You can add a plenum, cams and a few dozen other things that add up to alot of money. Headers really only add about 5-7 hp but they are far less restrictive than stock will increase gas milage and worth the 450.00 and a 400.00 install if a mechanic is willing to give you a break; or better yet do it yourself. Takes about 8hrs with i.e. DC 12hrs if you use crawford.

 

the best thing is to do is too adjust the torque curve.

 

Yeah, look under the hood for the small black **** marked "torque curve adjustment" it will have a +rpm on one side and -rpm on the other. If you can't find it, look next to the "powerband adjuster" This is the **** you turn if you want your friends to say "wow, this car sure has a broad powerband!" All you have to do is "adjust" these items and you will go faster.