3 Nissan dealers later.. NO ONE knows the problem... HELP!
#41
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From: westchester NY
it doesnt sound like anything.. just under acceleration when you go WOT.. it just doesnt pick up... some times when I just gun it!... it like bugs..idk how to explain it.. but like it picks up for 1 sec and then falls on its face.. like sometime it goes in and out
in neutral.. I can rev it fine.. i mean it does seem a little hard to get to like 6K.. but it revs fine and sounds normal to me.
Last edited by Vas_Z33; 11-19-2009 at 04:55 AM.
#44
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From: westchester NY
yes I was, but everything is stock now... stock inj, stock fuel pump.. took the walbro out... do you think the O2 sensors would cause this?.. as far as the flash.. Id love to get it but i cant drop 600$ at the moment.. what if its not the problem ya know.. ughh this carr!!!!
#45
I had a similar issue a couple months ago. The only code I was getting was p0328 for my knock sensor. Instead of the throttle issues that you are having, my car would just go into limp mode...CONSTANTLY. I would do an ECU reset, and it would go back into limp mode after an hour or so.
I was certain that it wasa faulty knock sensor, so I replaced the knock sensor and harness (even though both the old sensor and harness tested fine for continuity). After replacing with new parts, I had the same issue....still showing only the P0328 code.
I finally went to a local Nissan dealer and they performed a different diagnostic test and found that my throttle body was malfunctioning, but not throwing a code. Replaced it, and it's been running perfectly ever since. I wondered why I would be throwing a P0328 code, and the theory I have is that perhaps I got a hold of some bad gas that was causing knocking issues; which resulted in the code, and it was just coincidence that my throttle body went out at the same time.
Have you used up your current tank of gas? Maybe you have some bad gas too, the knock sensor is detecting knock, and is cutting back power at higher RPM's?
I was certain that it wasa faulty knock sensor, so I replaced the knock sensor and harness (even though both the old sensor and harness tested fine for continuity). After replacing with new parts, I had the same issue....still showing only the P0328 code.
I finally went to a local Nissan dealer and they performed a different diagnostic test and found that my throttle body was malfunctioning, but not throwing a code. Replaced it, and it's been running perfectly ever since. I wondered why I would be throwing a P0328 code, and the theory I have is that perhaps I got a hold of some bad gas that was causing knocking issues; which resulted in the code, and it was just coincidence that my throttle body went out at the same time.
Have you used up your current tank of gas? Maybe you have some bad gas too, the knock sensor is detecting knock, and is cutting back power at higher RPM's?
#46
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From: westchester NY
I had a similar issue a couple months ago. The only code I was getting was p0328 for my knock sensor. Instead of the throttle issues that you are having, my car would just go into limp mode...CONSTANTLY. I would do an ECU reset, and it would go back into limp mode after an hour or so.
I was certain that it wasa faulty knock sensor, so I replaced the knock sensor and harness (even though both the old sensor and harness tested fine for continuity). After replacing with new parts, I had the same issue....still showing only the P0328 code.
I finally went to a local Nissan dealer and they performed a different diagnostic test and found that my throttle body was malfunctioning, but not throwing a code. Replaced it, and it's been running perfectly ever since. I wondered why I would be throwing a P0328 code, and the theory I have is that perhaps I got a hold of some bad gas that was causing knocking issues; which resulted in the code, and it was just coincidence that my throttle body went out at the same time.
Have you used up your current tank of gas? Maybe you have some bad gas too, the knock sensor is detecting knock, and is cutting back power at higher RPM's?
I was certain that it wasa faulty knock sensor, so I replaced the knock sensor and harness (even though both the old sensor and harness tested fine for continuity). After replacing with new parts, I had the same issue....still showing only the P0328 code.
I finally went to a local Nissan dealer and they performed a different diagnostic test and found that my throttle body was malfunctioning, but not throwing a code. Replaced it, and it's been running perfectly ever since. I wondered why I would be throwing a P0328 code, and the theory I have is that perhaps I got a hold of some bad gas that was causing knocking issues; which resulted in the code, and it was just coincidence that my throttle body went out at the same time.
Have you used up your current tank of gas? Maybe you have some bad gas too, the knock sensor is detecting knock, and is cutting back power at higher RPM's?
#51
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From: westchester NY
yeah i know what you mean.. i plan on building the block in spring.. and i wanna run haltech .. I just wanted a try a few more things and then i guess get the reflash.. its a 50/50 chance, who knows... .... but then I wanna get the asuka hatch hahh damn this car lol
#52
600 is a lot on a hope. O2 sensors would usually give a code if their malf.
What did you mean when you said its "hard" to get to 6 in neutral.
If it stuttering as it goes up?
How is the fuel pressure?
How are the plugs?
What did you mean when you said its "hard" to get to 6 in neutral.
If it stuttering as it goes up?
How is the fuel pressure?
How are the plugs?
#53
Yea, well he is replacing perfectly fine parts, and its not responding. I mean I know 02 sensors arent cheap!! Try 02 sensors Its basically a game of trying to find the problem no matter whom you take it to!!
#54
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From: westchester NY
- when I said its hard to get to 6K i meant like... It revs perfectly fine.. i just think i need to press the gas more than normally .. and I have a clutch and flywheels so the revs should be much faster? maybe thats just me idk..
it doesnt stutter.
fuel pressure is good. nissan measured it and he said it was dead on.
the plugs look great.. but if it was the plugs it would bug or idle roughly etc etc.. different types of symptoms
When I was FI.. I had a walbro 255... I did do the CJm mod to the regulator.. the plastic piece.. I had to drill it out ( idk if you know what im talking about ) but I dont think its that since the fuel pressure is fine..
#55
That could be it, reving up to 6k is when you would see the prob occur, try a new one..
Mine wouldnt do that but it wouldnt make power with my old sc at 6k because my hole was drilled too big..
But if your going FI again whats the point of doing this.... I say leave it and dont rev up that high or stay off it.. Till u get it tuned!!
If you like keep trying other things, it will all come back to the tune anyways..
Mine wouldnt do that but it wouldnt make power with my old sc at 6k because my hole was drilled too big..
But if your going FI again whats the point of doing this.... I say leave it and dont rev up that high or stay off it.. Till u get it tuned!!
If you like keep trying other things, it will all come back to the tune anyways..
Last edited by Jay'Z; 11-20-2009 at 04:48 AM.
#56
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From: westchester NY
That could be it, reving up to 6k is when you would see the prob occur, try a new one..
Mine wouldnt do that but it wouldnt make power with my old sc at 6k because my hole was drilled too big..
But if your going FI again whats the point of doing this.... I say leave it and dont rev up that high or stay off it.. Till u get it tuned!!
If you like keep trying other things, it will all come back to the tune anyways..
Mine wouldnt do that but it wouldnt make power with my old sc at 6k because my hole was drilled too big..
But if your going FI again whats the point of doing this.... I say leave it and dont rev up that high or stay off it.. Till u get it tuned!!
If you like keep trying other things, it will all come back to the tune anyways..
#57
Yea, that is sold for cheap.. You may have to buy the whole thing if they wont replace that piece only.. It should be like 50 for that piece or about 200 for the whole fuel pump assembly. You could prob try CJM they may have em in stock or ur local dealer first..