Just Installed JWT combo-some questions
Hey guys, I just installed this combo and had some questions regarding it. I searched and checked some other threads, but most are in reference to how much noise this combo makes.
The question I had was regarding the pedal resistance. I heard it was supposed to be harder to press the clutch in because the extra clamping power it has, but I didn't realize it would be this hard. Also, I'm used to the stock clutch engagement being much higher than this. The engagement on this clutch/flywheel is really low. I would say a bit lower than the middle of the clutch. Is it going to get easier when it is broken in a little or is this the norm for most people. I figured I'd get some feedback from the pros. Thanks!
The question I had was regarding the pedal resistance. I heard it was supposed to be harder to press the clutch in because the extra clamping power it has, but I didn't realize it would be this hard. Also, I'm used to the stock clutch engagement being much higher than this. The engagement on this clutch/flywheel is really low. I would say a bit lower than the middle of the clutch. Is it going to get easier when it is broken in a little or is this the norm for most people. I figured I'd get some feedback from the pros. Thanks!
i put in a jwt clutch & flywheel in december - didn't really notice it being harder to push at all - did have the clutch point return to the top of the pedal which made me stall like an mt newbie until my foot/brain relearned the clutch point
with that low a clutch point my guess is that you need to check the clutch / slave cylinders and make sure you have them operating right - no air etc - did you bleed them or put a s/s clutch line in?
(does have the rocks in a blender rattle under 1700 rpm or so but that is due to the trans)
note: i have an '04 - i believe that they tweaked the later years clutchs for the less manly [you didn't want to have 1 popeye leg did you] so ymmv
with that low a clutch point my guess is that you need to check the clutch / slave cylinders and make sure you have them operating right - no air etc - did you bleed them or put a s/s clutch line in?
(does have the rocks in a blender rattle under 1700 rpm or so but that is due to the trans)
note: i have an '04 - i believe that they tweaked the later years clutchs for the less manly [you didn't want to have 1 popeye leg did you] so ymmv
The "feel" with change over the next several hundred miles. Do not know if it is a mechanical change or your brain simple adjusts to the new flywheel clutch.
A bit of wear and the engagement point will be higher. Get it 500 miles. THen make the necessary adjustments.
A bit of wear and the engagement point will be higher. Get it 500 miles. THen make the necessary adjustments.
Last edited by davidv; Feb 23, 2010 at 11:44 PM.
Burntz, thx for the input man. I actually did put a stainless Steel clutch line in, but the mechanic assured me that he made sure there weren't any air pockets.
Thanks davidv, I guess I'll wait for the 500 mark and see what happens. I drove it about 80 miles so far and it actually has gotten easier. Like you said though, I don't know if its my brain cause I'm getting used to it or something mechanical, lol.
Thanks davidv, I guess I'll wait for the 500 mark and see what happens. I drove it about 80 miles so far and it actually has gotten easier. Like you said though, I don't know if its my brain cause I'm getting used to it or something mechanical, lol.
Update: Much much easier to drive now. Still don't know if Im used to it or if it actually just got broken in, but this clutch/flywheel combo is incredibly fun to drive with.
On a side note, I had my bro drive it when I just had this combo put in and then just recently and he said it was still hard for him to depress
. I really don't care, shifts are soooo much better than stock. If anyone is having doubts about this combo, DON'T..........It's awesome!
On a side note, I had my bro drive it when I just had this combo put in and then just recently and he said it was still hard for him to depress
. I really don't care, shifts are soooo much better than stock. If anyone is having doubts about this combo, DON'T..........It's awesome!
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Hay man, if you are still having issues with the clutch engagement point adjust it.
Under your clutch pedal is a rod that can be rotated to adjust the clutch engagement point. you only need a couple tools to get the job done.
Here is an article that I used. Make sure to remove the plastic foot rest and plastic cover next to it. Once you put your head down there you will figure it out.
If you look underneath the footwell, you'll see that the clutch is attached to a metal fork, held in place with a rod with a hole drilled in it and a cotter pin (looks like a bobby pin). Take out the pin with a set of pliers, then remove the rod.
This is the hardest part: you need to get the metal fork out of the confines of the clutch pedal. The method that worked best for me is to pull up on the clutch pedal while simultaneously pushing down on the clutch fork, then moving the fork to the side of the clutch pedal. This is the most aggrevating and time consuming part of the whole process. Don't be surprised if this part makes you curse and spew expletives about the engineers that designed this part.
After that part is done (whew), use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut behind the fork.
To adjust engagement and travel:
* turn fork CLOCKWISE for lower engagement and shorter travel
* turn fork COUNTERCLOCKWISE for higher engagement and longer travel
I had to adjust a total of 4 whole clockwise turns for my cousin's car. (I suggest trying 2 clockwise turns, then seeing how the car feels. If you want it lower, just repeat the process.)
Under your clutch pedal is a rod that can be rotated to adjust the clutch engagement point. you only need a couple tools to get the job done.
Here is an article that I used. Make sure to remove the plastic foot rest and plastic cover next to it. Once you put your head down there you will figure it out.
If you look underneath the footwell, you'll see that the clutch is attached to a metal fork, held in place with a rod with a hole drilled in it and a cotter pin (looks like a bobby pin). Take out the pin with a set of pliers, then remove the rod.
This is the hardest part: you need to get the metal fork out of the confines of the clutch pedal. The method that worked best for me is to pull up on the clutch pedal while simultaneously pushing down on the clutch fork, then moving the fork to the side of the clutch pedal. This is the most aggrevating and time consuming part of the whole process. Don't be surprised if this part makes you curse and spew expletives about the engineers that designed this part.
After that part is done (whew), use a 10mm wrench to loosen the nut behind the fork.
To adjust engagement and travel:
* turn fork CLOCKWISE for lower engagement and shorter travel
* turn fork COUNTERCLOCKWISE for higher engagement and longer travel
I had to adjust a total of 4 whole clockwise turns for my cousin's car. (I suggest trying 2 clockwise turns, then seeing how the car feels. If you want it lower, just repeat the process.)
Last edited by travis0260; Mar 21, 2010 at 08:25 PM. Reason: Link didn't work
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