bleeding my clutch
#1
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bleeding my clutch
hey this is my last effort....did the whole clutch job myself w/o a lift or air tools and still cant get the pressure back into the clutch pedal. I have gone through 2.5 32oz of fluid a vaccum bleeder and countless hours....does anyone have any ideas I am about to have to get it towed tomorrow after all i did for a bleeding problem
#3
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yeah bro super tough having time with a crazy work schedule was at it again like all day. no clue what I am doing wrong or what more i could be doing
#4
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You need an extra person the pump the pedal./
#6
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dude, i searched your name and read all the hell you went through! - take it to a shop. after reading all your other post i wouldn't even wanna help you, so that you dont fug with it anymore..............my best help to you would be to take it to a shop!
-J
-J
#7
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damn....I cant believe your still at it man...and you havent even tried the clutch to see if it was installed right.
I know youve invested ALOT of time - but you need another person to help you man..
I helped a buddy of mine and I was pumping the clutch while he bled the line.. manually - its a VERY tedious process...Im talking HOURS man.. by yourself...forget it..
I know youve invested ALOT of time - but you need another person to help you man..
I helped a buddy of mine and I was pumping the clutch while he bled the line.. manually - its a VERY tedious process...Im talking HOURS man.. by yourself...forget it..
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#8
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Granted, I've never done the clutch swap on a z, but I just got finished working on one in an s2000.
We had a similar problem, no clutch pressure. After racking our heads, dropping the trans all over again, inspecting the installation, and reinstalling, we still had the same problem.
It turned out the shift fork in between the slave and throw out bearing was not sitting properly. After removing the slave, repositioning the fork, and reinstalling the slave, everything was fixed and the car drives perfectly.
So, for what it's worth, there's always that chance.
We had a similar problem, no clutch pressure. After racking our heads, dropping the trans all over again, inspecting the installation, and reinstalling, we still had the same problem.
It turned out the shift fork in between the slave and throw out bearing was not sitting properly. After removing the slave, repositioning the fork, and reinstalling the slave, everything was fixed and the car drives perfectly.
So, for what it's worth, there's always that chance.
#10
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It turned out the shift fork in between the slave and throw out bearing was not sitting properly. After removing the slave, repositioning the fork, and reinstalling the slave, everything was fixed and the car drives perfectly.
So, for what it's worth, there's always that chance.
So, for what it's worth, there's always that chance.
First inspect your clutch master cylinder and clutch slave cylinder for any open lines or leakage.
Then if you replaced the clutch line make sure its on properly
Next go under the car (while someone is in the driver seat pressing the clutch pedal) and see if the clutch slave cylinder is actuating (applying pressure against the clutch arm) make sure the guy in the driver seat is pushing the pedal down and pulling it up (because it will stick to the floor) using their hand (easiest way imho)
If its seated properly and applying pressure to the clutch arm after you have bled it numerous times and is still sticking to the floor then you have to take the transmission down and make sure the clutch arm retainer is attached to the pivot ball located inside the bell housing.
Depending on the year/model transmission it will either be a long pivot ball with a light thin clutch arm or short pivot ball with a heavy thick clutch arm.
A way to check to see if the clutch arm is disconnected is to see if there is free play when you move the clutch arm back and forth.
Another thing that could possibly be making this problem is if you are bleeding it incorrectly. Make sure you are opening the bleeder valve on the slave cylinder slightly just enough for air to get out of the system. Also you don't crack it open until you have pumped the clutch pedal a few times until it is getting tough to push it down then hold it half way and crack open the valve slightly then close it quick. Make sure you dont let the pedal go all the way down to the floor or let go of it when you are bleeding it.
PM me if you have any other questions or if you want to go more in depth with what you have done to it so far.
#11
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why are you using a vacuum bleeder for your clutch fluid? Don't do that. Try gently pumping the clutch pedal in slow easy movements for about 5 minutes. This will fill your master cylinder back up with fluid and may resolve your issue.
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