Clutch change and the car idles poorly and wont run!!!! HELP!!!
Hey guys, just changed th clutch and flywheel on my car and got it all back together and the car runs horribly. i made sure and double checked all the sensors, but when i start the car. it just idles at like 100 rpm and then dies after running really rich for about 10 secs. the throttle doesnt work and it just idles really rough. please help. i disconnected both the negative and positive and is there some kind of reboot i have to do on the ecu? please any one help. Thanks
+1
Try disconnecting the crank pos. sensor and starting the car. It will take longer to start (more cranking) but should eventually start (the ecu uses the cam sensors as reference if it sees no crank pos signal). If it still does the same thing, its probably not the crank pos sensor.
Try disconnecting the crank pos. sensor and starting the car. It will take longer to start (more cranking) but should eventually start (the ecu uses the cam sensors as reference if it sees no crank pos signal). If it still does the same thing, its probably not the crank pos sensor.
okay sweet. i disconnected the crank angle sensor and it started up. kinda wanted to die but it started and responed well. Now does that mean its just damaged or do i have to take the transmission back out to maybe have to locate the flywheel correctly. a nissan tech told me i may have put the flywheel in 180 out. but it hasnt popped any codes. Thanks for the help so far guys
you cant install the flywheel incorrectly - it will only go on one way IIRC
if it starts, it's on correctly
try to reconnect the sensor and see what happens. As I said they are really sensitive, so any dropping, banging it accidentally against something, etc and they can die and early death
if it starts, it's on correctly
try to reconnect the sensor and see what happens. As I said they are really sensitive, so any dropping, banging it accidentally against something, etc and they can die and early death
The flywheel is a possibility but I would try another crank sensor first before you pull the trans off. Not sure if it can be ohm'd but you could look around and see if you can do that to test the sensor.
EDIT: Also, what flywheel do you have?
EDIT: Also, what flywheel do you have?
Last edited by 350z 6spd; Jun 6, 2010 at 04:27 PM.
i bought the compition clutch flywheel and clutch. i cant seem to understand how the flywheel only goes on one way. the back of the OEM flywheel looks completely symmetrical and there are no douls or anything that dictates which way it goes on. i tried a new crank sensor and the same thing happened before. it just starts and runs like a dog. it doesnt rev past 200 rpm at most and just dies. I would hate to pull the trans and not be the problem.
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Well I have the JWT flywheel and it has 2 holes on the back, one for the FWD platform VQ and one for the RWD platform I believe. If you line the pin on the crank up with the wrong hole on the flywheel, the timing will be off.
It is also possible that the pin isn't lined up with any hole on the flywheel if it was put on and torqued down without thinking about it (although unlikely).
It is also possible that the pin isn't lined up with any hole on the flywheel if it was put on and torqued down without thinking about it (although unlikely).
http://s874.photobucket.com/albums/a...t=IMG_0104.jpg
heres a picture of the back of the engine i forgot i took. I know you cant see the top of the crank but what you would be able to see with the flywheel on is visible in the picture. i dont seem to see where the mark is. I really dont want to tear it down and not solve anything
heres a picture of the back of the engine i forgot i took. I know you cant see the top of the crank but what you would be able to see with the flywheel on is visible in the picture. i dont seem to see where the mark is. I really dont want to tear it down and not solve anything
Well I talked to a Nissan tech and he said that it's a classic problem of having the flywheel out 180 degrees. He said there's only 2 ways the flywheel can be mounted and he has seen it happen alot. Well I sure hope that's the problem and I don't take it all back down for nothing. And hopefully the flywheel bolts come out okay. May need to replace them. What do you guys use. Th factory ones? Or something different? Thanks
I re-used the factory bolts. Not recommending you do this, just putting it out there. Just be careful that you put the torx bit exactly perpendicular to the bolt so it doesn't round off (I'm sure you know that, just thought I'd let you know).
If it's not the Crank pos sensor, then the flywheel position is most likely the issue.
If it's not the Crank pos sensor, then the flywheel position is most likely the issue.
Well got the flywheel out and thank fully saw thatnit was about 60 degrees out. The pin must have fallen out that's why it went back in any way. Well hopefully it runs right this time, because if not, a 1/2 inch 24 inch extension driver might be remodeling the outside of my car. Thanks for the fast responses guys, it's much appreciated. I will post more pictures and hopefully take a video. I torqued the factory flywheel bolts to 65 ft lb felt good and snug and put blue locktite on them
okay well it runs well, kinda rich and it doesnt run on its own very well, need to keep the engine runnign with the throttle but it clears up the more it runs. I cant however get it into gear. i called the clutch company and they said that you have to adjust the clutch inside the car? is this right and has anyone ever had to do this with a new clutch. Maybe the new flywheel clutch combo is a little thinner than the factory, and needs extra travel? any ideas? thanks Ben
okay, now the car is free, we rocked it in gear and something thunked and now it drives and i can get it into gear and out. However, the car keeps dying anytime i let off the gas pedal, is it normal when having a light weight flywheel? the car also wont go into 5th gear. im not sure what clunked when we rocked it, the transmission went in okay, and apart from those 2 things, the only other thing is that theres a very loud noise coming from right below the shifter, a kinda grinding noise like when you almost stall a manual. Any advise or thoughts?
no, it is not normal at all
I think you may need a more experienced set of hands going over the install, because I can't really think of what would cause all these issues
I think you may need a more experienced set of hands going over the install, because I can't really think of what would cause all these issues
well i have restored many vechicles and rebuilt many transmissions and engines, i think frustration may have got the best of me and i rushed things. it turns out the the shifter wasnt seated properly so that fixes the 5th gear problem and noise, now its just the engine stallin gout, my friend said it may just need a reset of the TPS sensor or a relearn idle air volume mix. So im going to try that, toiehr than that the car has been fine. just having work all day and only being able to work on it during the night gets tiring and i think i was getting a little frustrated and rushed things, but i got lucky.
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