Tomei 268 Cams
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Originally posted by Blownaway
Thanks for the information, What you are talking about are shims, not lifters and you could get lucky if he measured correctly and only need the one size set, instead of reshimming several times, that is when it gets expensive...Please pass on as much info as you have, since I am right behind you. I really appreciate it...If you every need anything Nismo, or NIssan, let me know I can get you my cost on it...
Thanks for the information, What you are talking about are shims, not lifters and you could get lucky if he measured correctly and only need the one size set, instead of reshimming several times, that is when it gets expensive...Please pass on as much info as you have, since I am right behind you. I really appreciate it...If you every need anything Nismo, or NIssan, let me know I can get you my cost on it...
So with 10.5:1 compression then it would be like a stock engine with cams and the lightened flywheel. I am most curious about how the car runs with the 268's. I know with the lightened flywheel it probably revs like crazy but does it bog a little at the bottom off idle with the 268's. What is you're opinion of these cams in an everyday street application as a daily driver? Thanks.
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mjedens,
Sorry I forgot to ask one more thing. Where on the power curve did the car pick up the hp's? I have seen Nismo 262 dyno sheets and they get their power after 5000 rpm's. Is it the same with the Tomei 268's?
Sorry I forgot to ask one more thing. Where on the power curve did the car pick up the hp's? I have seen Nismo 262 dyno sheets and they get their power after 5000 rpm's. Is it the same with the Tomei 268's?
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a couple q's?
How did you "make" your pistons from 11.5 to 10.5 compression? and Why did you change it? Wouldnt more compression = more power, or just = more problems? Im interested in running a similar setup like yours, and i want to see how urs turns out....thanx
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Tomei 268 Cams
g356gear:
At about 4500 rpm's is where the HP started picking up! Shims were mentioned again in your post; shims are not used on this engine,you have to change out lifters to get the cams adjusted correctly! I would not let this keep me from installing the 268's, it's not that big of a deal ( it's only "money", about $275 more retail).
Pistons= As you already know, the stock being 10.3 and mine 10.5 probably isn't that big of a deal! I can tell you that the forged CP pistons are quite a bit lighter than the stock and you have to bore the cylinders .20. What this actually does is beyond
my knowledge.
Flywheel=You're right about "revs like crazy" statement. I guess the UR pullies and maybe even the lightweight pistons have helped too. I think that with these cams a lightweight flywheel would almost be a necessity! The car does not "bog" from idle but probably would without the flywheel.
Idle= Besides the A/F ratio being off ( bit the bullet and fedx'ed my ECU to TS yesterday- only immediate answer to my A/F problem now) the idle keeps the car from being driver/street friendly!! Nissan tried to raise my idle from 750 but the lope in the cams is not allowing the ECU to "learn" (Nissan's statement). By the idle being @ 750, almost every quick stop causes the engine to "die"! I'm getting better at it but hoping that my re-flashed ECU from TS will cure this. Have to wait & see. You can probably imagine that with these cams, flywheel, & a stage 3 clutch, I've eliminated most people from being able to drive it ! The increase in performance overcomes the above drawbacks IMO!!
ss350= I switched to 10.5 because I felt 11.5 was too much compression for the amount of N20 I run when I go to the "drag strip"! Machine shop makes measurements & shaves the cap(top part of piston) to reduce the compression! Cost= $100! ( keep in mind, they did a lot of other things for me for a lot "mo money"!
At about 4500 rpm's is where the HP started picking up! Shims were mentioned again in your post; shims are not used on this engine,you have to change out lifters to get the cams adjusted correctly! I would not let this keep me from installing the 268's, it's not that big of a deal ( it's only "money", about $275 more retail).
Pistons= As you already know, the stock being 10.3 and mine 10.5 probably isn't that big of a deal! I can tell you that the forged CP pistons are quite a bit lighter than the stock and you have to bore the cylinders .20. What this actually does is beyond
my knowledge.
Flywheel=You're right about "revs like crazy" statement. I guess the UR pullies and maybe even the lightweight pistons have helped too. I think that with these cams a lightweight flywheel would almost be a necessity! The car does not "bog" from idle but probably would without the flywheel.
Idle= Besides the A/F ratio being off ( bit the bullet and fedx'ed my ECU to TS yesterday- only immediate answer to my A/F problem now) the idle keeps the car from being driver/street friendly!! Nissan tried to raise my idle from 750 but the lope in the cams is not allowing the ECU to "learn" (Nissan's statement). By the idle being @ 750, almost every quick stop causes the engine to "die"! I'm getting better at it but hoping that my re-flashed ECU from TS will cure this. Have to wait & see. You can probably imagine that with these cams, flywheel, & a stage 3 clutch, I've eliminated most people from being able to drive it ! The increase in performance overcomes the above drawbacks IMO!!
ss350= I switched to 10.5 because I felt 11.5 was too much compression for the amount of N20 I run when I go to the "drag strip"! Machine shop makes measurements & shaves the cap(top part of piston) to reduce the compression! Cost= $100! ( keep in mind, they did a lot of other things for me for a lot "mo money"!
Last edited by mjedens; 11-26-2003 at 02:56 AM.
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Here is my advise - if you have a bunch of dyno sheets showin the A/F sweeps, get those to TS ASAP - they will at least give them a guide as to where to kake the changes. Problem with the reflashes by mail is just as you are seeing..its basically trial and error till they get it right.
The overbore has increased your displacement a bit....nothin significant. I wonder why they went with an overbore, but its no big deal reall, and surely a heck of a lot lighter than stock, so the revs must be crazy
The lope is the cam itself, not the ecu not being able to learn You have the Procam setup in your car, which is setup as the higher performing ones they offer. If you got the higher lift version (10.25mm) then those are the most radical ones Tomei offers. In order to get these to idle properly, you'll probably need an idle of around 900 rpm (no big deal), and it may need to be a bit on the "fat" side (rich - as in the mid 13's at idle) in order to avoid the lope, since you are pulling far less vacuum (more than lkely) with these cams compared to stock.
The overbore has increased your displacement a bit....nothin significant. I wonder why they went with an overbore, but its no big deal reall, and surely a heck of a lot lighter than stock, so the revs must be crazy
The lope is the cam itself, not the ecu not being able to learn You have the Procam setup in your car, which is setup as the higher performing ones they offer. If you got the higher lift version (10.25mm) then those are the most radical ones Tomei offers. In order to get these to idle properly, you'll probably need an idle of around 900 rpm (no big deal), and it may need to be a bit on the "fat" side (rich - as in the mid 13's at idle) in order to avoid the lope, since you are pulling far less vacuum (more than lkely) with these cams compared to stock.
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An overbore is boring out your cylinders. In this case .020 inches. They do this because your stock pistons have made a wear pattern in the cylinder walls and just tossing new pistons in would change that and you will wind up with blow by and other issues. Also, the pistons are .020 bigger in diameter so there is really no choice but to bore it. You displacement probbaly increased about 2.5 inches so you have like a VQ355 now.
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Re: Tomei 268 Cams
[QUOTE]Originally posted by mjedens
[B]g356gear:
Idle= Besides the A/F ratio being off ( bit the bullet and fedx'ed my ECU to TS yesterday- only immediate answer to my A/F problem now) the idle keeps the car from being driver/street friendly!! Nissan tried to raise my idle from 750 but the lope in the cams is not allowing the ECU to "learn" (Nissan's statement). By the idle being @ 750, almost every quick stop causes the engine to "die"! I'm getting better at it but hoping that my re-flashed ECU from TS will cure this. Have to wait & see. You can probably imagine that with these cams, flywheel, & a stage 3 clutch, I've eliminated most people from being able to drive it ! The increase in performance overcomes the above drawbacks IMO!!
I guess the thing to do for anyone else considering these cams would be to have the idle set by the dealer before the engine comes apart for the cam swap.
[B]g356gear:
Idle= Besides the A/F ratio being off ( bit the bullet and fedx'ed my ECU to TS yesterday- only immediate answer to my A/F problem now) the idle keeps the car from being driver/street friendly!! Nissan tried to raise my idle from 750 but the lope in the cams is not allowing the ECU to "learn" (Nissan's statement). By the idle being @ 750, almost every quick stop causes the engine to "die"! I'm getting better at it but hoping that my re-flashed ECU from TS will cure this. Have to wait & see. You can probably imagine that with these cams, flywheel, & a stage 3 clutch, I've eliminated most people from being able to drive it ! The increase in performance overcomes the above drawbacks IMO!!
I guess the thing to do for anyone else considering these cams would be to have the idle set by the dealer before the engine comes apart for the cam swap.
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Idle
Good idea about uping the idle before installing the cams! And yes, I sent TS the A/F charts. Should get the ECU back on Friday & will dyno(ck A/F) on Monday!
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cbsuper ?
Engine rebuild with all the bells & whistles= $11,314. (does not include previous mods ie;headers,plenum,pullies,CAI,test pipes,Stillen exhaust,TS,springs,N20 stuff,drag wheels & slicks.
I'm a "speed junkie" (I live for the "rush" a 200 shot off the line gives you) that gives "sound financial advice"!
I'm a "speed junkie" (I live for the "rush" a 200 shot off the line gives you) that gives "sound financial advice"!
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Have you guys just tried an E-Manage? It works great to adjust fuel and is inexpensive as heck. Worked great for me on the Maxima and the 350Z. I agree with Adam it is a bit lean. I measured around 13.5-12:1 AF mixture stock if I remember correctly. I would like to see it at 13:1 or so.
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The emanage is a piggyback...no one map will necessarily work on every car, but the beauty is that its user programmable and actually very flexible.
Guru - I'm going to call you today to discuss it a bit more..maybe we'll put one in next week to mine.
Guru - I'm going to call you today to discuss it a bit more..maybe we'll put one in next week to mine.
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 11-28-2003 at 12:10 PM.
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Does it only adjust AF ratio or can you alter timing, etc? How does it compare with the AEM unit and the XEDE? I am researching engine management now since engine modification is next on the list (after Konis).
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You can only retard timing AFAIK, not advance. I personally have no real use for the ignition aspect anyway, as I am staying NA on my car at least for the first go around.
I am not at all familar with the Xede, so cannot comment there. Neither the Xede nor the E Manage are close to the capabilities of the AEM, which is full on standalone, though the price for the E Manage and Xede are also a far cry from the AEM as well.
I am not at all familar with the Xede, so cannot comment there. Neither the Xede nor the E Manage are close to the capabilities of the AEM, which is full on standalone, though the price for the E Manage and Xede are also a far cry from the AEM as well.