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SS clutch line installation problem

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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 03:58 PM
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Default SS clutch line installation problem

i removed the lower end of the stock clutch line but i can't remove the upper one. Through the mirror, i see a clip in between the upper end. My guess is that i have to remove the clip but the damn thing won't move... For the SS clutch line installed guys, how did you remove it?
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 05:36 PM
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I need help ASAP. i need to drive my car tomorrow and the bottom end of thhe clutch line is disconnected in my garage
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 05:58 PM
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I'm pretty sure you need a special wrench....
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 06:58 PM
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You probably need a flare nut wrench - available at any auto parts store, Sears, Harbor Freight
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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Originally Posted by DavesZ#3
You probably need a flare nut wrench - available at any auto parts store, Sears, Harbor Freight
i used a flare nut wrench to remove the hard line from the rubber line. But the end of the rubber line won't come off. It's held by a clip
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:27 PM
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Pry bar...have fun, but not too much. Clip is on tight.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 07:33 PM
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Originally Posted by shakuya88
Pry bar...have fun, but not too much. Clip is on tight.
i tried every angle to get it off but no chance.. Could you tell me more specifically how to?
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 08:33 PM
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Screw driver or small vice grips.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 08:39 PM
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Originally Posted by terrasmak
Screw driver or small vice grips.
i assume you know how the clip looks like. It's U-shaped. U letter has 3 tips, right, center and left. Those tips are bent up for some reason.
I tried to grip the center part of the clip that is bent up and pull it away from the hose. It moved a little but no way it'll come off. DO you pull the clip away from the hose by forcing it?
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:24 PM
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The clip looks like this?


It's probably corroded, so a little oil might help to get it out. Grip the turned-over edge on the end to pull it off the end of the bracket..

It's shown on page 15 of section CL of the manual (2007 version).

Last edited by winchman; Jul 10, 2010 at 10:26 PM.
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Old Jul 10, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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Originally Posted by winchman
The clip looks like this?


It's probably corroded, so a little oil might help to get it out. Grip the turned-over edge on the end to pull it off the end of the bracket..

It's shown on page 15 of section CL of the manual (2007 version).
yeahyeah! that's it. Should i spray some pb blaster around the clip? i checked 05 service manual, CL, and it says the clip is the lock plate

Last edited by JDMStanced; Jul 10, 2010 at 10:42 PM.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:36 AM
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That's the same clip used on the brake lines. All you have to do is grab the tab with pliers and work them off. I realize that space restrictions don't always make that possible or easy
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 05:49 AM
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Dude, just pry at it, careful not to damage the line.

AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:

I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:


Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:


Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:34 AM.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:16 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
Dude, just pry at it, careful not to damage the line.

AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:

I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:


Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:

Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.

-J
I was freaking out lol. I tried to wiggle that thing under the car and neck was hurting Now that i know that it is suppose to come off with out doing anything else, i'll go ahead and try one more time thx
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:20 AM
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Originally Posted by 350zRiot
I was freaking out lol. I tried to wiggle that thing under the car and neck was hurting Now that i know that it is suppose to come off with out doing anything else, i'll go ahead and try one more time thx
LOL...........pull on it.........use your prehistoric ancestory monkey grip!!!

-J
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
LOL...........pull on it.........use your prehistoric ancestory monkey grip!!!

-J
i used my mad monkey grip and pull off that little plate. It felt REALLY good haha.
But now i'm having a problem with the clutch pedal not having any resistance. If i press down the clutch just about where it disengages, it suddenly sucks into the floor by itself. The gear is now stuck at 2nd and it won't go into neutral even if the clutch is pressed in
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 03:17 PM
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From what I've read here, bleeding the clutch system is a really tricky. IIRC, some of the threads about it recommend a pressure bleeder. Do a search.
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Old Jul 11, 2010 | 09:49 PM
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Originally Posted by winchman
From what I've read here, bleeding the clutch system is a really tricky. IIRC, some of the threads about it recommend a pressure bleeder. Do a search.
i had real hard time bleed that thing. It's 90% done. Took about 2 hrs to bleed and used 2 bottles of 12ml for 90% done haha. But as i was bleeding, i was wondering "why do i have to open and close the bleeder valve so quickly? Can't i just open it for awhile and let the air out?" WHY?
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Old Apr 8, 2011 | 11:12 PM
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well im no expert but i heard of a good way to bleed the system.

just plug the drain nipple of the slave cylinder at the bottom with a $10 oil can (with a trigger to pump), take out all the old fluid with a turkey baster and then pump in the new fluid from the bottom. air naturally wants to go up...

please correct me if im wrong on the bleed system.
I'm about to do it myself on my z and have just been doing research..

Last edited by b4tm4n420; Apr 8, 2011 at 11:15 PM.
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Old Apr 9, 2011 | 06:35 AM
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I been working on this thing since last weekend... I used the old school method, then the oil can method... It seemed to work but barely... Then I got the car home n parked it n a few days later it was no good again... I used a different pumping method from the bottom up n it felt better.. But here I am days later still with some air in it...

Was gonna try n work on it today n bled again..

Sorry to revive an old thread....

I need to get this done, any one with better ideas chime in.... I've also searched n wat I've found is that I should jus stay wit it...
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