SS clutch line installation problem
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
i removed the lower end of the stock clutch line but i can't remove the upper one. Through the mirror, i see a clip in between the upper end. My guess is that i have to remove the clip but the damn thing won't move... For the SS clutch line installed guys, how did you remove it?
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
Trending Topics
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
i assume you know how the clip looks like. It's U-shaped. U letter has 3 tips, right, center and left. Those tips are bent up for some reason.
I tried to grip the center part of the clip that is bent up and pull it away from the hose. It moved a little but no way it'll come off. DO you pull the clip away from the hose by forcing it?
I tried to grip the center part of the clip that is bent up and pull it away from the hose. It moved a little but no way it'll come off. DO you pull the clip away from the hose by forcing it?
The clip looks like this?

It's probably corroded, so a little oil might help to get it out. Grip the turned-over edge on the end to pull it off the end of the bracket..
It's shown on page 15 of section CL of the manual (2007 version).

It's probably corroded, so a little oil might help to get it out. Grip the turned-over edge on the end to pull it off the end of the bracket..
It's shown on page 15 of section CL of the manual (2007 version).
Last edited by winchman; Jul 10, 2010 at 10:26 PM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
yeahyeah! that's it. Should i spray some pb blaster around the clip? i checked 05 service manual, CL, and it says the clip is the lock plate
Last edited by JDMStanced; Jul 10, 2010 at 10:42 PM.
That's the same clip used on the brake lines. All you have to do is grab the tab with pliers and work them off. I realize that space restrictions don't always make that possible or easy
Dude, just pry at it, careful not to damage the line.
AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:
I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:

Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:

Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.
-J
AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:
I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:

Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:

Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.
-J
Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Jul 11, 2010 at 08:34 AM.
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
Dude, just pry at it, careful not to damage the line.
AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:
I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:
Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:
Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.
-J
AcidJake75 and I have done at least 10 cluch installs and line changes to ss lines and this part takes like 10 seconds for us with the following tools:
I have found it best to use curved long needle nose pliers like this to make removal a breeze: (hard to see the curve on the end of these pliers, but it helps)
This pic was taken from elsewhere so ignore the pic message:
Once its off, its a 10mm nut on the hardline, and a small wrench will work if you are careful as there is decent room there, but its super easy with this wrench:
Don't get discouraged, sounds like your freaking out, just work it back and fourth and the clip will come out.
-J
-J
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
But now i'm having a problem with the clutch pedal not having any resistance. If i press down the clutch just about where it disengages, it suddenly sucks into the floor by itself. The gear is now stuck at 2nd and it won't go into neutral even if the clutch is pressed in
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (16)
Joined: May 2010
Posts: 3,011
Likes: 1
From: Deep in Michigan
i had real hard time bleed that thing. It's 90% done. Took about 2 hrs to bleed and used 2 bottles of 12ml for 90% done haha. But as i was bleeding, i was wondering "why do i have to open and close the bleeder valve so quickly? Can't i just open it for awhile and let the air out?" WHY?
well im no expert but i heard of a good way to bleed the system.
just plug the drain nipple of the slave cylinder at the bottom with a $10 oil can (with a trigger to pump), take out all the old fluid with a turkey baster and then pump in the new fluid from the bottom. air naturally wants to go up...
please correct me if im wrong on the bleed system.
I'm about to do it myself on my z and have just been doing research..
just plug the drain nipple of the slave cylinder at the bottom with a $10 oil can (with a trigger to pump), take out all the old fluid with a turkey baster and then pump in the new fluid from the bottom. air naturally wants to go up...
please correct me if im wrong on the bleed system.
I'm about to do it myself on my z and have just been doing research..
Last edited by b4tm4n420; Apr 8, 2011 at 11:15 PM.
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 1,876
Likes: 2
From: Northern NJ / Vacation on MARS
I been working on this thing since last weekend... I used the old school method, then the oil can method... It seemed to work but barely... Then I got the car home n parked it n a few days later it was no good again... I used a different pumping method from the bottom up n it felt better.. But here I am days later still with some air in it...
Was gonna try n work on it today n bled again..
Sorry to revive an old thread....
I need to get this done, any one with better ideas chime in.... I've also searched n wat I've found is that I should jus stay wit it...
Was gonna try n work on it today n bled again..
Sorry to revive an old thread....
I need to get this done, any one with better ideas chime in.... I've also searched n wat I've found is that I should jus stay wit it...








