Check plugs and wires on the tranny and back of the motor. I had that problem. Turned out i didnt plug one in all the way the sensor thats at the 7oclock position.

 

a new problem has come up.... we realigned the flywheel, everything is perfect except the car is not getting any spark. car still wouldnt start so we checked the spark plugs and nothing. so we pulled the coil pack off and tested the connector and its getting roughly 6.5 volts. im not sure if thats enough to actually get any spark from the plug, if it is then my plugs are shot and thats a simple fix. if not then i have no clue wat it could be. does anyone know if the ecu or my utec would limit the voltage for any sort of security reasons? the cel light isnt coming on. thanks again

 

Yeah that should definitely be battery voltage, 12 volt. I say double-check your battery.

 

Do all the coil harnesses read the same?

 

thats what i figured, ill check the battery tomorrow. we only pulled the one pack, we were short on time. thanks

 

and yet another problem ....... :'( checked the codes, and it said that the crank postion sensor was f'd. replaced that and now the coils are getting the full 12 volts except still no spark. tried a new coil pack and new spark plug and still nothing. any ideas? the guy at nissan think its the flywheel but im sure thats right and i really dont feel like dropping the transmission for a 3rd time. thanks again

 

Did you figure out what cause the crank sensor to break? Did it contact the flywheel encoder? Did it get dropped/bang-ed around? Other than that I would check to see if they gave you the propper/working flywheel with your order. It should have an encoder attachment with notches of varing size cutout. These are what tells your crank sensor and ultimately the ECU where the crank is at a certain time. If they are not reading or not correct the ECU will not know when to fire. Take note, I have herad there is a redundancy that will still fire as long as the cam postion sensors are functioning (can't confirm this though).

You can use this link for a crank encoder verification tool/pic.

 

sorry for taking so long, comps been down. it looked like the sensor was hit while trying to mate the bell housing back up. and yes the sensor is good, or at least we think because now its getting the full 12 volts, where as with the old one it would only send 6.5 to the coil packs. and i used that pic to verify the notching on the side of the fly wheel and the bolt pattern. thanks tho

 

hey i have a similar problem, did you ever resolve the issue ?