i have 06 m/t that sounds like 2 pieces of metal slapping together when shifting between 1& 2nd gears after about 30 miles it goes away. dealer keeps saying this is normal B S many 06 m/t have this problem are there any T S B out there for this problem thank you much

 

First!!

 

if you can't find em......grind em!

Your synchros are probably no good.

 

I've got a tranny if you wanna buy mine. Its a 2007 transmission with about 35k on it. I had nissan replace mine under warrantee and got a brand new trans. Blew my engine though and am selling the trans.

 

07 trans will not work on an 06. We tried it at the shop the other day.

 

Agree.. Just live with it.

 

mine is like that if i dont keep the revs up. seems very violent shifting between 1-2 only.

Try keeping up the revs a bit and playing with the clutch. It may help a bit.

Im trying to diagnose if my clutch/flywheel is gone at the moment since i get vibrations in my clutch pedal pretty much all the time and it feels like hotspots.

Good luck

 

Be careful with that, I blew my first trans up because of my synchros. Pieces of the synchro got between my gears and destroyed 5th, and reverse, and i took about 15 minutes to get it into 1st through 4th just to get moving. Not exagerating at all either. Once I was moving I was ok just couldn't use 5th or 6th so no hwys for me until I got it to nissan and got the new tranny.

 

my dad taught me a trick with my 350z.

So what i normally did for my other cars and i tried this on the z but i wasnt as successful.

Ok so start off in first by slowly working the clutch etc, thats fine if you know how a clutch works you will get this part.

But i would fully press the clutch in and shift between 1-2. I found that the shifter had trouble getting into 2nd, probably because the clutch being all the way in slowed the tranny down as it was getting ready to engage.

So then i tried bringing the revs up a bit and then releasing the clutch between 1-2. That worked better but took way too long.

My dad showed me that you can find the right point where the clutch will keep the revs up for you. So press in the clutch but not all the way, its probably about half way in and then shift. I found there is no grinding since the clutch is mostly separated, but it keeps the revs closely matched so its great to get a nice smooth shift.

I have read on other forums that it wont burn out the clutch using this method, you just need to be careful not to grind the gears. I still press the clutch in all the way 3-6, its just 1-2 that i press it in just a bit less than all the way. It was hell getting used to it at first, i used to be the slowest car at the light.

BTW bringing the revs up and then releasing the clutch is pretty much the same thing on the clutch, again just be careful not to grind.

Cheers
C

 

took car to coral springs nissan, i live in miami let me tell you it was worth the trip , everybody was pleasant to deal with from the phone operator to the cashier even the car rental agent was very nice ,but i must give special mention to CHRIS my service rep. and to mechanic HOWARD .CHRIS was a complete gentleman, kept me informed and went above and beyond in helping me. THANK YOU CHRIS. HOWARD was the mechanic who did the the work this guy was super cool, very knowledgeable very pleasant to deal with.my son went with me to pick up the car and he completely agreed with me . he was surprised how sincere and friendly CHRIS and HOWARD were.HOWARD took the time to make sure everything was fixed ,and CHRIS was there to bring everything together. i have owned 6 nissans in my time and have been to numerous dealers for repairs. CORAL SPRINGS NISSAN is the BEST. . aspecial thanks has to go to the service manager for selecting such quality individuals through out the shop ,i spoke to several other mechanics there and was equally impressed

 

so what was the problem?

 

You are basically Rev-Matching. You and the Clutch are working together to do what the synchro's should be doing on their own. aka, if it wasnt working right before you did that, and it works fine now, those synchro's are goin out.

 

You are basically Rev-Matching (not quite, but close). You and the Clutch are working together to do what the synchro's should be doing on their own. aka, if it wasnt working right before you did that, and it works fine now, those synchro's are goin out.

 

Try something for me. Change the oil and see if it still does it.

Reason: I thought my tranny was jacked up and I described my problem the EXACT same way. It turns out it was actually the lifters being starved for oil and making noise as I let off the throttle (most noticeable b/w 1st and 2nd) because I have an oil consumption problem which I'm having dealt with tomorrow morning. So if you change your oil and the problem goes away, you may have just mistaken the sound for something else.

Given that you have an 06 Z, and the Rev-Up engine is notorious for its oil consumption issues (Yes, there is a TSB), I wouldn't at all be surprised.

 

Here is the deal. When you go to switch gears and it either gets a little stuck, or has that hard grinding sound then pops into gear it means that your synchros are a bit damaged. Either the teeth are broke, or very worn down probably from the person who previously had the car or you just banging into gears.

The dorrito guy talking about slowing the tranny...NO....tranny's always going to spin with the engine and only gets a jolt when engaging the clutch. So by slowly easing off the clutch to pop it into gear yes it will work to a degree not to hear the grinding, but then your burning the clutch as a chain reaction to doing so.

On the EVO 5th gear always had that issue, I just clutched normal and eased the stick into the gear with out making it grind. I had the tranny rebuilt to repair that issue with the updated syncho kit. Luckily was 300 bucks for the work done. "hook up"

If you do not want that noise, see if you can order the synchros from the dealer, or where ever you can find them and then find a good tranny shop to do the work. Might be a little costly but hey it solves your problem, less you can live with it.

 

silly question, is the tranny fluid a separate container? Or does it share the engine oil ?

I have an 06 but mine never loses oil, i went in for the oil consumption tracker where the dealer looked at it every 1000km after an oil change and at most it lost 1mm for every 1000km so it passed the test.

I did notice a strange thing today between using VDC on or VDC off

VDC ON
With VDC on, it seems to make like a strange metal expanding sound at start up, like exhaust cooling down. It also gives me issues shifting 1-2 and starting off, does that rubbing feel as if its going to stall. The tranny would often feel violent going into 2nd

VDC OFF
Now with VDC off, no sounds, smooth transition between the gears and no need to rev-match. Goes into 2nd nice and smooth. Very few noises when starting if any.

It almost seems like there is something wrong with the VDC. I used the same street to test it on and it had the same differences every time. I first noticed it parking the car. I turned off VDC just for kicks and the car was so much smoother. I never turn off the VDC so im interested to see what people think.

IS there also any way to diagnose VDC problems? Shouldnt the car pop codes if the sensors are out or having problems? The previous owner curbed one of the rear rims pretty badly so im not sure if something else was damaged in the process. Thats why im a bit worried about the rear diff.

My car is going in to the dealer today for a checkup on the oil so ill ask the guy why its doing this.

Im also debating to invest in getting all of the fluids changed, rear diff, tranny, brake etc as a sound investment. Its at 30k miles right now.

Thanks in advance.

 

I'll just answer that the Tranny fluid is completely separate from the engine oil.

 

I'm previously an auto driver so it makes sense, the autos have separate fluid too. Still getting used to the 350z features/flaws

Quick little update, car still feels different from vdc on to off. I thought the vdc was just so the wheels dont slip (ie trying to burn out = VDC OFF). I dont understand why the gears are so smooth with VDC off. I noticed my car shifts really nice right when i start it too, then when it warms up 2nd seems to enter pretty violently.

I will be driving with VDC off from now on, at least until i figure out what is causing these issues. It might be as simple as the tranny + rear diff fluid.

Thanks guys, ill post back after i get back from the dealer to diagnose this problem.

 

Perhaps you have a VDC module control problem. Get it checked.

 

i didnt know that would cause any issues. I will see what they say, im leaving in 30 mins.

BTW i already bought a set of brembos and rotors, i have an 06 Touring so it has the regular brakes. Would it be an issue with the VDC if i add the brembos? I never thought about that as an issue. Ive seen some VDC modules for sale on ebay that come from the Grand Touring (W/brembos), would i need to upgrade the module as well?

Thanks in advance