Wheel Hop during Burnouts?
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Wheel Hop during Burnouts?
This may be the wrong place to post this but I am sure other people get wild rear wheel hop when doing a burn out, I DO BAD and can't stand it, basically makes it so I cant do a burn out. Does anybody have a solution to this problem????
thxs in advance!
thxs in advance!
Last edited by CaLiFoRnIaZ; 11-18-2003 at 01:57 PM.
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It's not a poorly designed rear end. That couldn't be further from the truth. Nissan simply didn't design for drag racing.
The Z's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) is designed for minimal body roll and performance in cornering, etc.. not for burnouts and launches.
Either way, unless you're running drag slicks, you don't need to be doing burnouts anyway. Burnouts actually degrade the performance of regular DOT street tires.
The Z's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) is designed for minimal body roll and performance in cornering, etc.. not for burnouts and launches.
Either way, unless you're running drag slicks, you don't need to be doing burnouts anyway. Burnouts actually degrade the performance of regular DOT street tires.
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umm
Originally posted by azrael
It's not a poorly designed rear end. That couldn't be further from the truth. Nissan simply didn't design for drag racing.
The Z's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) is designed for minimal body roll and performance in cornering, etc.. not for burnouts and launches.
Either way, unless you're running drag slicks, you don't need to be doing burnouts anyway. Burnouts actually degrade the performance of regular DOT street tires.
It's not a poorly designed rear end. That couldn't be further from the truth. Nissan simply didn't design for drag racing.
The Z's IRS (Independent Rear Suspension) is designed for minimal body roll and performance in cornering, etc.. not for burnouts and launches.
Either way, unless you're running drag slicks, you don't need to be doing burnouts anyway. Burnouts actually degrade the performance of regular DOT street tires.
ok you don't know, thxs!
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umm
Originally posted by Z Powered
Traction bars...JIC maybe...?
Traction bars...JIC maybe...?
when you burnout can you burn out a 15 foot patch and not get any wheel hop, mine did it the day i got it from the dealer, just worst now with the extra power.......
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Originally posted by azrael
yup, you nailed it.. I have no clue what I'm talking about.
just curious... why do you need to lay down a 15 ft patch of rubber?
yup, you nailed it.. I have no clue what I'm talking about.
just curious... why do you need to lay down a 15 ft patch of rubber?
This is about "if anybody knows how to fix the problem when burning rubber", not why "are you burning rubber".............if nobody has this worry or problem then just don't post a reply......but if someone has constructive ideas to fix my problem, then GREAT I thank you for your help...............-Kevin
#12
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Don't let those dumbos get to you guy. Burn outs are ok. Start out with a little roll maybe 5-10 mphs depress the clutch and bring the motor up to 1900-2300 rpms and let out the clutch quickly. The Z suspension does not have leaf springs like old muscle cars so burn outs need a little more finesse. Practice the rolling burn out by bringing up the rpms a little higher each time until you get the desired results. That should eliminate most of the wheel hop. Then once you get the feel of it you should be able to do them from a stop. Please be safe and keep out of traffic when doing this though. Also, make sure your tires are at 35 psi.
Last edited by zillinois; 11-18-2003 at 05:57 PM.
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Originally posted by zillinois
Don't let those dumbos get to you guy. Burn outs are ok. Start out with a little roll maybe 5-10 mphs depress the clutch and bring the motor up to 1900-2300 rpms and let out the clutch quickly. The Z suspension does not have leaf springs like old muscle cars so burn outs need a little more finesse. Practice the rolling burn out by bringing up the rpms a little higher each time until you get the desired results. That should eliminate most of the wheel hop. Then once you get the feel of it you should be able to do them from a stop. Please be safe and keep out of traffic when doing this though. Also, make sure your tires are at 35 psi.
Don't let those dumbos get to you guy. Burn outs are ok. Start out with a little roll maybe 5-10 mphs depress the clutch and bring the motor up to 1900-2300 rpms and let out the clutch quickly. The Z suspension does not have leaf springs like old muscle cars so burn outs need a little more finesse. Practice the rolling burn out by bringing up the rpms a little higher each time until you get the desired results. That should eliminate most of the wheel hop. Then once you get the feel of it you should be able to do them from a stop. Please be safe and keep out of traffic when doing this though. Also, make sure your tires are at 35 psi.
I wish that this did fix the problem, but i do beleive it is because it is a cheap suspension in the rear somehow..............aint no way a exotic would wheel hop, camero's, mustangs sometimes, etc will, due to the cost you pay for the vehicle. Trust me I am a very experienced driver, i am 32 years old for crist sake.............anyways thxs........
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I get wheel hop bad sometimes, even when I was at the strip. I had an 85 200sx with the independent rear set-up, did the EXACT same thing, with far less power. I just live with it....
#17
I'm very surprised this thread didnt get the response it deserved.
I mean come on folks, half the fun of owning a powerfull car is being able to do a decent burn-out without looking like a jackass doing it.
Nothing worse than dumping the clutch and "boom boom boom"....
massive wheel hop, real impressive for a hot car.
Come on guys, were's the suspension problem?
And dont tell me to buy a Camaro. Already had one, 2000 z28. Burnout par exellance'.
I mean come on folks, half the fun of owning a powerfull car is being able to do a decent burn-out without looking like a jackass doing it.
Nothing worse than dumping the clutch and "boom boom boom"....
massive wheel hop, real impressive for a hot car.
Come on guys, were's the suspension problem?
And dont tell me to buy a Camaro. Already had one, 2000 z28. Burnout par exellance'.
#18
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depends on the surface whether it show up, also maybe temp, and just luck of the draw.
however as for the cure. bushings, suspension bushing, engine mount bushings, everything, need to be tighter. a new suspension can help, different tires(he is right, the stock tread is designed to not "slip" but instead grab even after traction is lost. )
none the less, you shouldnt do it but thats where youd start to solve it. I dont think half that stuff is even available to buy tho.
however as for the cure. bushings, suspension bushing, engine mount bushings, everything, need to be tighter. a new suspension can help, different tires(he is right, the stock tread is designed to not "slip" but instead grab even after traction is lost. )
none the less, you shouldnt do it but thats where youd start to solve it. I dont think half that stuff is even available to buy tho.
#19
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No offense meant California. I just haven't had any problem with wheel hop at the track or on the street. I've done 13 runs in a row at a quarter mile track with launches between 1800-3500 rpm with zero wheel hop.
I'm not sure how to address the charge of cheap suspension. What do you want from your suspension is a more productive approach. The suspension performs admirably at the track for a stock car. I think that rules out the possiblity of it being cheap. Ford Fiestas have cheap suspension. The reason an "exotic" won't wheel hop is because the suspensions, until recently, were built solely with cornering and traction in mind. They were stiff, like riding in an ox cart. If you really want to eliminate wheel hop put stiffer springs and shock/struts combo with traction/camber bars. Of course without electronically adjustable suspension or some other way of easing up the stiffness you will lose your spleen over every bump. So its a trade off. Softer suspension equals softer ride and less performance. Also, a typical exotic costs $100,000 dollars more than our cars. An exotic car is not a good reference point when trying to determine whether your suspension is cheap or not.
If you don't want to do that, here is an old muscle car trick. Make or find a metal bracket that will hold your favorite 1 gallon container of liquid bleach. Get a fish tank style water pump, rubber hose, electric switch and some zip ties. Find a mounting point for the bracket, mount a valve through the plastic cap of the bleach container, connect the hose from the valve to the water pump, then run the hose lines from the pump to the tires. With zip ties, aim the end of the hose where the rubber meets the road. Then hook up the switch somewhere on the inside of your car and run it to the pump. When you want to do burnouts just press the switch and let 'em rip. You will get big impressive blue smoky burnouts! Do not blame me if anything bad happens though ok?
I'm not sure how to address the charge of cheap suspension. What do you want from your suspension is a more productive approach. The suspension performs admirably at the track for a stock car. I think that rules out the possiblity of it being cheap. Ford Fiestas have cheap suspension. The reason an "exotic" won't wheel hop is because the suspensions, until recently, were built solely with cornering and traction in mind. They were stiff, like riding in an ox cart. If you really want to eliminate wheel hop put stiffer springs and shock/struts combo with traction/camber bars. Of course without electronically adjustable suspension or some other way of easing up the stiffness you will lose your spleen over every bump. So its a trade off. Softer suspension equals softer ride and less performance. Also, a typical exotic costs $100,000 dollars more than our cars. An exotic car is not a good reference point when trying to determine whether your suspension is cheap or not.
If you don't want to do that, here is an old muscle car trick. Make or find a metal bracket that will hold your favorite 1 gallon container of liquid bleach. Get a fish tank style water pump, rubber hose, electric switch and some zip ties. Find a mounting point for the bracket, mount a valve through the plastic cap of the bleach container, connect the hose from the valve to the water pump, then run the hose lines from the pump to the tires. With zip ties, aim the end of the hose where the rubber meets the road. Then hook up the switch somewhere on the inside of your car and run it to the pump. When you want to do burnouts just press the switch and let 'em rip. You will get big impressive blue smoky burnouts! Do not blame me if anything bad happens though ok?
Last edited by zillinois; 11-19-2003 at 02:43 AM.
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I didn't mean to come off like a jackass. If you really want to do burnouts, I suppose that's your perogative. I don't think they're all that impressive, but that's just me. Most people I've seen doing burnouts came off as idiots trying to put off a show.. but I guess it's not my place to judge you.
The real problem I have with what you're saying is that you're claiming the car has a "cheap suspension" just because it's not made for burnouts. I've seen absolutely no evidence to suggest that the Z's suspension is cheap. It's just not designed for this application. The leaf spring setup you see on Corvettes helps eliminate the wheel hop you seeing. However, the people who track their Vettes end up going with a fully independent coil-over-shock setup like ours (but stiffer). There is a trade-off there. Nissan chose a suspension better for cornering, rather than launches and burnouts. Realistically, if burnouts and drag racing are your cup of tea, the Z might not have been the best choice... but if you want to spend some cash, you can adapt the suspension for whatever goals you choose.
Anyway, sorry to be rude. Good luck correcting your wheel hop issue.
The real problem I have with what you're saying is that you're claiming the car has a "cheap suspension" just because it's not made for burnouts. I've seen absolutely no evidence to suggest that the Z's suspension is cheap. It's just not designed for this application. The leaf spring setup you see on Corvettes helps eliminate the wheel hop you seeing. However, the people who track their Vettes end up going with a fully independent coil-over-shock setup like ours (but stiffer). There is a trade-off there. Nissan chose a suspension better for cornering, rather than launches and burnouts. Realistically, if burnouts and drag racing are your cup of tea, the Z might not have been the best choice... but if you want to spend some cash, you can adapt the suspension for whatever goals you choose.
Anyway, sorry to be rude. Good luck correcting your wheel hop issue.