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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 06:51 AM
  #61  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
I would say thats moot.....but ya im sure it can help a wee bit...

I personally wouldnt bother.......

if i ever have a problem (ie, broken Nismo diff cover stud) of any type, then I plan to get a 240sx double stud finned diff cover and modify the subframe to accept TWO solid diff bushings...




-J
it doesnt fit, save your efforts
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 06:53 AM
  #62  
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^ boo okay.......good to know, i wondered about it...

I have no need to do it like i mentioned.....so far everything has held up great and I credit that to the solid diff bushings in the front ears......they keep the diff planted........

-J
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 07:28 AM
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
YES, its pointless, because there wont be any twisting of the diff anymore because the front diff ear solid bushings will keep the diff from twisting...

-J
That is what I thought.

I am just going to make my own aluminum bushings for the front diff ears and then make weld in aluminum bushings for the diff and four mounting points on the subframe.

Easy and cheap to do.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 07:39 AM
  #64  
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Originally Posted by Quamen
That is what I thought.

I am just going to make my own aluminum bushings for the front diff ears and then make weld in aluminum bushings for the diff and four mounting points on the subframe.

Easy and cheap to do.
I need to make those! the 4 points subframe to car....

can you please pm me measurements? etc when you do?

I did see a totaled Z at the junk yard with the subframe out once, and I don't know why i didn't think to stop and measure..

-J
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 07:44 AM
  #65  
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Here are pics of some:



Taken from:
https://my350z.com/forum/autocross-r...verything.html

-J
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 07:52 AM
  #66  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
I need to make those! the 4 points subframe to car....

can you please pm me measurements? etc when you do?

I did see a totaled Z at the junk yard with the subframe out once, and I don't know why i didn't think to stop and measure..

-J
Can do. It won't be for a couple of weeks till I get all the car up on jacks and start installing my fuel cell. Gotta finish stripping the interior and sound deadener first.

Again, I am making mine thinner and weld them in rather than a 3" thick bushing. If you go solid, there is no reason to make them the same thickness as the rubber OEM piece and I am not worried about them wearing out so replacement is pointless IMO. I will be running different bracing than OEM though.

Last edited by Quamen; Dec 17, 2010 at 07:53 AM.
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 09:09 AM
  #67  
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sounds good, no rush...thanks

-J
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 11:36 AM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
they are not $300 nor anything close to it
cant remember what i paid, just an estimate.

damnit i googled it. $179
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Old Dec 17, 2010 | 01:16 PM
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I'm goin solid. I will try to take pics of install when I'm done. I don't care for extra noise, but I also don't care to replace a bushing again lol. So I will let you guys know how I feel about them once they are on. Thanks!!
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Old Dec 21, 2010 | 04:46 AM
  #70  
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^ you wont be disappointed.....

in for pics..

-J
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 10:47 AM
  #71  
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I just saw a set of solid bushings for sale for $129. from Sikky manufacturing , anyone tried these?
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 10:49 AM
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its a piece of lathed aluminum. Of course SPL, etc will tell you theirs are better but a micrometer says they are the same.

Last edited by str8dum1; Dec 22, 2010 at 10:51 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 11:11 AM
  #73  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
its a piece of lathed aluminum. Of course SPL, etc will tell you theirs are better but a micrometer says they are the same.
That's why i can't bring myself to pay for them. They are super easy to make and the material to make all the bushings for not only the differential, but also the subframe is only $35.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 12:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Quamen
That's why i can't bring myself to pay for them. They are super easy to make and the material to make all the bushings for not only the differential, but also the subframe is only $35.
yep. I agree guys, thats why i made my own......you just have to have the means to do so....me and a few locals split the bill...

I have machine shop access, etc......I made 5 sets of solid diff bushings with only 45 bucks of aluminum.....heck i still have a good sized piece left over...

not everyone has that access so others gotta pay..........no foul about that either.....just sucks when you know whats up...
-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 23, 2010 at 05:09 AM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 12:41 PM
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Originally Posted by michael815
I just saw a set of solid bushings for sale for $129. from Sikky manufacturing , anyone tried these?
There is really nothing to try different than any other aluminum machined solid diff bushing...I found them on their site and so long as their dimensions are spot on for press fit, etc then they will work more than fine.......

If you look at mine, i did my own calculations on press fit ~ honestly.....
still to be sure, i marked mine for future inspect and all as been great.....i doubted they would move......

i was however lucky enough that "AFTER" i made mine i was able to compare to other solid bushings out there and i was spot on by .001, no lie...

so, any competent shop should be able to get this right...sikky i would think they could..based solely on seeing their fab skills...

-J

Last edited by JasonZ-YA; Dec 22, 2010 at 12:42 PM.
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 03:24 PM
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and so obviously you are going to post the OD of the bushing right?
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 03:39 PM
  #77  
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Old Dec 22, 2010 | 04:40 PM
  #78  
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Originally Posted by JasonZ-YA
There is really nothing to try different than any other aluminum machined solid diff bushing...I found them on their site and so long as their dimensions are spot on for press fit, etc then they will work more than fine.......

If you look at mine, i did my own calculations on press fit ~ honestly.....
still to be sure, i marked mine for future inspect and all as been great.....i doubted they would move......

i was however lucky enough that "AFTER" i made mine i was able to compare to other solid bushings out there and i was spot on by .001, no lie...

so, any competent shop should be able to get this right...sikky i would think they could..based solely on seeing their fab skills...

-J
Thanks j , this makes sense.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 05:17 AM
  #79  
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Originally Posted by str8dum1
and so obviously you are going to post the OD of the bushing right?
Because of the fact that others make this product I would refrain from doing so...

Originally Posted by michael815
Thanks j , this makes sense.
no worries......

About the only difference that SPL does is they anodize finish their bushing....

a nice touch, that shows great technical understanding of the part.

but not exactly needed.....the factory diff ear bolts are yellow zinc anodized and the diff stud is silver zinc......a bit of lube on them is a enough of a touch, but it takes a long time for a machined aluminum part to pit/corrode thats as thick as these pieces are...

Painting them is acceptable on the exposed portions as a means to coating but i wouldn't say its a requirement...

The other nice touch on SPL's is they supply the press tool......

which is helpful on install......but, if you follow my diy you can see that the factory diff ear plates can double for that too when stacked up..

-J
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 09:23 AM
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Yes, that's why we didn't annodize to keep the costs down. We wanted to offer a bushing kit that met the needs of the customer but was as reasonable as possible. Here's a pic of our setup.



link to the page
http://www.sikky.com/suspension_high...nufacturer.php

Free shipping on our kits from now till Jan. 1st $129.90

Last edited by SikkyMFG; Dec 23, 2010 at 09:25 AM.
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