Hi everyone,

I just bought a used Borla dual exhaust, and I was wondering if anyone had a soft copy of the installation manual that they could email me.

Also, do I need to get new gaskets that go between the stock cats and the borla cat-back exhaust, or can I reuse the stock ones?

THANKS!

 

if no one has a soft copy of it...could someone at least take pictures of the manual (page-by-page) and send them to me...??? thanks!

 

there is no instruction manual. there should be a diagram.

but here's one

http://www.zchickz.com/borla2.htm

 

hm...thanks, but is there anything that's a bit more detailed?

 

Email the Borla Sales Dept., they will email you the instructions as Word document.

 

How to Install the
Borla True Dual Exhaust
on a 350Z
You will need:

Small or Large Flathead Screwdriver, depending on technique to push hangers from rubber supports
12 mm Open End Wrench or Torx T-30 (to fit on ratchet)
14 mm Socket (deep and shallow)
15 mm Socket (deep)
Ratchet (and extension if you've got it)
Hammer to persuade any recalcitrant nuts or an impact wrench if you're in the big leagues
Access to a lift is best, but a couple sets of jack stands and a floor jack will do
An extra set of hands (another warm body)
1. You can do the install by jacking up just the rear end, but it will be easier to jack up both ends. A lift will easily cut 45 minutes to an hour off the installation time. If you use the jack method, make sure you are on a level surface and your jack stands are properly placed. The install takes about two hours if you use the jack stand method.

2. Remove the nuts from the two flanged pipe joints and the flanges that attach to the cats with the 14 mm socket. Save the four nuts and two gaskets from the cat flanges, you will use them to attach the new pipes.

3. Remove bolt holding the rubber hanger from the muffler intake pipe using either the 12 mm open end or the Torx wrench.

4. Remove the center part of the original pipe. Remove the rubber hanger from the pipe. You can use the small screwdriver to stretch the rubber enough to slide over the retaining nipple on the hanger. A little lubrication helps too. Alternative: use the large screwdriver to pry against the exhaust.

5. Slide the muffler assembly out of the two rubber hangers, again you can use the small flathead screwdriver to work the rubber support off the hangers. Your extra set of hands will be helpful for this step.

6. Remove the Y pipe from the cats.

7. Start at the cats and attach the left and right flanged pipes to the cats. The pipes are clearly marked which is left and which is right. If they're not marked, it will be obvious which is which when you test fit them. Leave a little play at the cat flanges by not tightening the nuts all the way down.

8. Slide a pipe clamp over the end of each of the pipes.

9. Pre-assemble the H pipe -- be sure to use the one small clamp for the H. Do not tighten the clamp. Slide the H pipe onto the two pipes coming from the cats.

10. Slide a pipe clamp over the end of each of the pipes coming from the H pipe.

11. The longer resonator pipe with the small bend goes on the right -- the bend goes up and to the right. The shorter resonator pipe slides on the left.

12. Slide a pipe clamp over the end of each pipe.

13. The pipe with the hanger toward the rear of the pipe goes on the right. You'll have to twist this around a bit to get the bend up over the sway bar just right -- you'll have a half-inch clearance over the sway bar. The pipe with the hanger toward the front goes on the left. This pipe goes in the original pipe path under the sway bar. Insert the hanger into the rubber support.

14. Slide a pipe clamp over the end of each pipe.

15. Get your friend for this one. Slide the muffler inlet pipes onto the two pipes and insert the hangers into the rubber supports. Make sure the exhaust tips are correctly aligned.

16. Slide the rubber support onto the remaining hanger on the right pipe and reattach with the original bolt (use the Torx wrench).

17. Check all clearances on the underbody and make any adjustments needed. Pay particular attention to the right pipe section around the sway bar.

18. Pull the two pipes of the H-pipe together and tighten the H-pipe clamp with the 15 mm socket. Make sure the pipes are lined up and the clamp covers the slots.

19. Starting at the muffler intake joints, attach the clamps using the 15 mm socket. The clamps should fully cover the slots in the pipes, which means the clamp bolts will be perpendicular to the ground. Work your way toward the cats, tightening each set of clamps to 32-35 foot-pounds. As you tighten, make sure your clearances on underbody parts are maintained. You may have to make some adjustments by twisting a section slightly or pushing up on a pipe section a bit.

20. Tighten the pipe flanges to the cats with the 14 mm socket using 32-35 foot pounds. And you're done!

NOTE: It will take about 100 miles to burn in the exhaust, so expect to see a fine white smoke for a bit.

Thanks to Bill (ZWindsor) for a couple corrections and suggestions.


http://zchickz.com/borla2.htm

 

If you need those gaskets to go between the stock cats and exhaust they are usually a special order part. I remember I had to order a set for someone once and they were around $10. But dont quote me on that price.

If you would like PM me and I can look up the exact part number and cost and order you a set and mail them to you.

 

thanks for your help guys. jason -- i talked to borla and they said i should just go ahead and use the stock gaskets. thanks!