I sure will Midnight Madness March 19 @ San Antonio Race Way.
I'm putting on my Bogart D10s for the second time.

 

Hey, before you go build a motor for all the wrong reasons figure out what you want long term. Honestly, a built bottom-end on a HR isn't very benefical NA unless you going all out. There is power to be found using a built bottom-end NA but it is mostly found utilizing an extended rev-limit. And I'm not certain but I'm guessing the HR can rev to 8k without building it up. So that leaves compression as the only other bottom-end item to find some meaningful power from. The problem there, considering the the cam choice, I can't see a true need. Separately, if you decide to go turbo later, you will need a new set of pistons (lower compression) to keep it together for any length of time.

Keep the lady happy and the bottom-end stock, I think you'll be happier. Thermodynamics of a built motor are not fun if your machineist doesn't hit it right on the mark. Of course this advice is totally dependant on you having a good looking bottom-end.

 

Very Well Said. Thanks for your input

 

Update?

 

They will finish putting everything back together tomorrow and hopefully they will wait for me for Saturday so I can take some vids of everything on my car.

 

I bet your excited
Good stuff

Thanks for the update

 

Well guys the Z will be turning on tomorrow for the first time in a month, but the bad thing is that MMS Techs wussed out in tuning my car on their dyno reason being they did not want to spend the $900 to buy the Osiris tuner software and Cypher wire. <---(pissed me off) but the good news is that I have an appointment set for Saturday already with Uprev in Austin TX on the same Dyno I got tuned the last time. I need some advise about driving my car untuned over an 1 1/2 to Austin will I have any problems or will the car break down or over heat?

 

Should be fine, I track my car untuned.

 

As long as you have the numbers you put down on the same dyno before and after install, thats what people want to see.

Now for driving, you should be fine for an hour an a half. Don't drive it like you stole it though.

Get the cam angles worked on, you'll be happy bro.

 

Well guys another upseting update, the techs called me yesterday and told me that they finally turned the car on but that he did not feel same letting me take the car home just yet. He wanted to keep it for a couple of days more (Wednesday) to make sure there was gonna be no leaks or anything like that. He also said there was a lot of valve train noise right now which should go away with usage... <---- is that true? So due to this misshap I had push the appointment till next weekend for tuning. So any one with head work done to their Zs can you all tell me a little about the valve train noise he is talking about?¿?¿?

 

Hopefully everything turned out fine.

 

I can't think of a valve-train noise that goes away (some like the tensioners are nothing to worry about however). Could also be they made a mistake setting the valve lash which will make a constant ticking sound and is not acceptable, however it will not drastically hurt anything. However you put it though, if you paid market price, there should be any noises that weren't there before.

 

They gonna open the engine back up but without removing it the car, they did not install the shim that the valvesprings sit on so hope fully that'll do the trick, and for sures get it tuned this weekend. Man, I am so tired of this shop already!!!! It's been almost 1 month and a half. Grrr

 

To install new camshafts without checking valve lash clearance is grossly incompetent. Not only will there be noisy tappets but quite likely tight ones as well.

For any competent mechanic, even for the 1st time on a VQ motor the job should not take more than 12 hours.

If in the process of valve clearance checking it is discovered that new shims have to be ordered in from Nissan, the time needed to procure these will add to the time in the shop. But a month & a half !!!!

 

Nathan, I think he is referring to the shims that are supplied with aftermarket valve springs to get the appropriate height and preload in the valvetrain. The bucket shims for the valve lash are a P.I.T.A. to set and the horsepower and startup will tell you if they screwed up there (also validated with a compression check). But the actual valve spring shims could have caused a problem damaging the heads long term, but since they caught it it should be fine. But set the expectation, No noises.

 

Zazz is exactly correct, also I'm really hoping for no noises after they put the shims back on... I'm hoping they could finish my car by Friday with the JWT In Chassis Valve spring remover. I'll keep my fingers crossed

 

BIG Problems!!!! Wow this is so unreal!!! Well the new problem is as the Tech says something about some discs on the cams not even touching something that the reason why was because the GTM Valves I bought were not machined into the heads so the valves were a tad short of where they needed to be. So out comes the engine one more time!!!! but I am trying to live life at it's fullest and just smile even if it hurts but I wanted to ask you all here on my350Z is once the heads are getting the valves machined into them who would recommend Porting and polishing the head once they are there???

 

Honestly, unless you have a good shop to do the port work I'd pass. This shop really seems to be more of a bolt on shop, not engine builders. You have to be really careful who you let cut/grind your heads, because there is no going back once a big enough mistake is made. Even if they are not doing the grinding I would assume they are outsourcing to someone the know, and judging from the previous errors I wouldn't trust them for that. It sounds like they totally screwed up on the heads... and I can only imagine what that car's startup sounded like . To simply drop a set of valves in to a head, slap on the cams without setting the clearences properly and expect it to go correctly could only be done by someone who has never done that particular job before. The VQ has very picky clearences and is very time conusuming to set, I just hope they can get it right for you the second time around. Also I would suggest they replace the head bolts as well, after multiple torquing they tend to stretch. Honestly, I would think they woud pay for the bolts as well.

Good luck.

 

I am gonna pass on the port and polish.

But as far as machining the valves into the heads
Would you have an Idea about what he's talking about?
He said the GTM valves are the same height but their
Shape is different that's why they have to be machined in
Whatdo you think?

 

As we all know, metal to metal seals are not that good at holding pressure. They can be great, but the basic idea of putting two peices of metal together to hold an air tight seal seems tough. Well, this is exactly what a valve does. It sits in a valve seat, which is a metal insert ground to a certain shape to match the OEM valves for sealing, together sealing the cylinder when needed. I've heard of OEM valves seating in the valve seat well enough to hold pressure without an additional valve job, but this is not the case for most aftermarket valves. Because the aftermarket valve is built for performance there are a variety of seat to valve grind jobs that can be cut and improve sealing and flow characteristics. The two most used are 5 angle jobs (roughly meaning there are 5 different angles, one to mate up the valve and the seat and the rest for better flow), and 3 angles jobs. It possible for a valve to fit ok out of the box because the industry standard is a 45 degree cut, but its always a good ideal to mate them together. Generally this is the biggest power gainer in the port and polish for the VQ (but not always). So make sure they use a good machinist.

Example of a 3 angle job (note there are 4 actual cuts, one for the seat and the rest for the flow characteristics)