Im here in the shop watching them install my JWT flywheel and clutch..

Im very anxious to see what the results are...

Will there be a NOTICEABLE gain in power/pull? Ive read countless reviews of people with mixed feelings.. Some say they notice a huge difference and some say it wasnt worth it at all...

I hope this 'mod' is worth the money..

2004 350z base 6spd coupe. Completely Stock with 55k miles.

 

"Will there be a NOTICEABLE gain in power/pull?"
"2004 350z base 6spd coupe. Completely Stock with 55k miles."

No there wont be a noticeable gain in power/pull.


Im having mine done next week.. "every" bolt on avail.. finally slipping at 97k miles on OEM clutch n fly. When it doesnt slip anymore, i will have all the power..... that i was simply missing before from slipping after the metal got hot.

if you did not replace the lines, master or slave as well, i doubt you will feel a large diff over the last clutch, which i assume went bad. Expect it to feel softer as your worn clutch gets harder to push as it wears. But it will be equal to a OEM clutch in good condition.

Your car will now be noisy as all livng hell tho. Youtube it. The benefit of a lightweight flywheel is a fickle animal. Do you rev match alot in your downshifts etc? DO you race autox? ... I dont.. but i downshift ALOT instead of braking during spirited runs.. hence the lwfw will be a nice addition to decelleration of the car. It does however disturb the linearity and smoothness of the car in daily situations... but only minutely.

Hope that helps, but with no other "mods".. dont expect to see any large difference in power with a simple clutch upgrade.

 

Moved...

 

well thats very dissappointing..Ive read so many reviews that people actually feel gains in 1,2,3rd gear.. I should have just bought an oem clutch and Fw, I would have saved alot of money. DAmn

 

not the case.

the clutch wont make your cars internals spin any faster.. the grab may be harder, of course. But again, im sure youl be happy and feel butt dyno "gains" because of power you had previosuly been losing from slipping. Again, youve only gained back what was being lost.

But you will actually spend far more on OEM clutch and fly then what you just did.. alot. What did you pay, maybe 1200 bucks?

And now you have a great clutch that will hold up to what JWT says is 600 hp.. ( doubt it) , so get rid of the signature in a hurry now ( no mods) and get some mods going and prosper.

 

A lightweight flywheel will increase acceleration in all gears. However, you're only going to feel it in the first couple of gears where net gearing (gear * final drive) is the highest.

http://www.uucmotorwerks.com/flywhee...heel_works.htm

 

A lighter flywheel will decrease the overall spinning mass, thus allowing it to accelerate more quickly. In 1st gear, the car's weight is dramatically reduced via gearing, so the change in rotational mass vs static mass is proportionately very high. Effects are reduced in each gear.

 

Some good info on the Tilton clutch & fly combo (8lbs...no longer being sold) in this thread:

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...and-wowie.html

 

I spent 700 for parts and labor.. i found someone on craigslist list selling their unused JWT clutch/flywheel setup for 450 because they wrecked their car and had no use for it. Im spending 250 to have it installed right now...

Is this a good deal??

 

1200 is a good deal, so yes, your price is an extremely good deal.

 

Wow that was an awesome read.
So The lightened flywheel Will not add hp.. but actually get things moving quicker, basically freeing up the power that was already there...?

Is this correct?

 

yep, less rotational inertia to overcome, but that inertia makes for easier clutch engagement at the stop light, and a smoother driving car to sell as OEM.

Imaigne running w 3 lb shoes.. then running w very light shoes.. did you "make" any power? Theoretically nah.
But functionally you still did... because you can exert the force you already had stored in your legs more effectively.

hows that for analogy. K im out.. good luck sir.

 

Kind of....another benefit is that it gets you into your powerband more quickly from a stop. Think about it...it's the same as having huge *** chrome wheels -- the engine's not going to be able to get those moving as easily. If you're road racing, and you are already in your powerband, it doesn't do much except sap a slight bit less power and help with shifts.

 

im surprised that shedding a mere 12lbs off the fly wheel would help accelerate a 3200lb car more efficiently.
Thats pretty cool

 

Two reasons why...

1) The car doesn't weigh 3200lbs as far as the engine sees things...the transmission and final drive gearing are essentially mechanical levers that reduce it to around 240lbs in 1st gear.

2) It's rotating mass, not static mass. Removing 12lbs of rotating mass is about the same as removing 2-2.5 times (varies depending on who you ask...) that in non-rotating mass.

12*2 = 24 lbs

24lbs / 240lbs = 10%

 

well the car will be done tomorrow morning I will Kate this thread with my impressions as I put mileage on the set up

 

Its going to go like a bat out of hell.

 

all good things to hear as mine goes in 2 weeks from now.

W a UTEC.

And a tune..FINALLY!

And test pipes.

JWT POP .. O.G.

I am hoping it too goes like a bat outta hell.

 

hmm obvious lightweight flywheel is less rotational mass, which means redline quicker. got the clutch kit and flywheel new for $770, 3 years ago, 1200 is a rip off. installed it myself.. i barely push the clutch in an it engages. no one can get outa first in my car with out looking retarded, well except for me.

 

yea its noisy when sitting parked off the clutch, from the flywheel being so light. its not that big of deal you get use to it after u hang out with other modded z's. my rpms climb way faster than when i had the 50lb oem crap in