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FI or N/A to keep reliability? and 1/4 mi expectations?

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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 02:29 AM
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Default FI or N/A to keep reliability? and 1/4 mi expectations?

before I write, I will say yes, ive been doing research on the subject for months and have been a previous owner of a procharger as well as a jwt700bb kit (both of which i sold). But I am interested in a bit more power again and have not found very substantial data on either for what I am looking for. I currently do not daily drive the car, but plan to move in the near future, and may make it into a daily driver. So I am looking for a setup that will still maintain most of my stock reliability while still being able to have a bit more power while being able to pass emissions. I have plans for either route and just need engine reliability info and 1/4 mile expectations of each type of setup(neither of which I could find).

My current car is an 03" G35 5at with 53k.

currents mods(engine/drivetrain):
transgo vb upgrade and trans cooler
JWT pop charger w/ berk polished z tube
MD 5/16 spacer with front runners in manifold cut and polished
1 step colder plugs
Cobb accessport
greddy evoTT dual exhaust
walbro 255

suspension:
tein basics
ichiba front camber arms
spl rear camber arms and toe bolts
upgraded to oem brembos with drilled rotors and braided lines
stillen sways
front strut bar
20" work schwert wheels



My N/A build components(if i go this route):
wiseco 11.5:1 stock bore pistons
eagle rods
acl or cosworth bearings
ARP head studs
port/polish head
jwt valve springs
bc or jwt 264 cams
HKS or cosworth head gasket
dc headers
berk/kinetix HFC
custom tune


My FI build(if i go this route):
procharger/vortech at 7psi
deatschwerk 600cc injectors
berk/kinetix hfc
custom tune

questions I have about these setups are:

how will engine reliability be affected by each setup? I know that the s/c will decrease reliability somewhat, but how badly? I dont drive hard very often if ever, let alone go over the speed limit but may want to do a few 1/4 mile runs. I also would assume with the n/a build with the components chosen I should have better than stock reliability but am not sure(too many mixed opinions).

next, I know what to expect of the supercharger, but how much gain should I expect with the n/a build plans and for that power bracket would either setup be capable of hitting a high 12's 1/4 mile?

thanks in advance for any info.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:38 AM
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No one is going to be able to estimate reliability on any setup with any degree of certainty, there are just way too many variables involved when you're doing a build plus bolting on a power adder. FI can be plenty reliable if everything is done properly with the wild card being if you add more parts you're adding more parts that can potentially break.

As for 1/4 mile times with various setups, why not check that running thread with all the verified 1/4 mile times. I'd search for it but I think thats your job
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:43 AM
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thanks. i've found that thread but it doesnt mention supporting mods. I am looking for similar setup/base kit 1/4 mile times. the thread doesnt even specify power level and is just too nonspecific.

ive been looking through threads and planning different builds for about the last 7 months+

I agree with the variables, but i guess im looking more for a consensus of whether the n/a build would be more reliable than stock, and if supercharged but not driven hard would it limit me to the engine breaking in 50k for example. btw I like to floor it once in a GREAt while (like once a month). and other than that never exceed speed limit.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 03:48 AM
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Originally Posted by vq30dez
thanks. i've found that thread but it doesnt mention supporting mods. I am looking for similar setup/base kit 1/4 mile times. the thread doesnt even specify power level and is just too nonspecific.
Ah okay, I could have sworn that it listed rwhp level and power adder (if applicable) along with times. But, I haven't been on here much in the past few years so it could just be a figment of my imagination.

Anyway, I think a good deciding factor would be for you to tell us what your desired end state is.. ie, you would like 375rwhp or whatever. From what you've said so far, I dont really think it makes sense for you to do an all out NA build which will probably cost you as much or more then a Vortech setup and net you a lot less power.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 04:27 AM
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you're going to spend all that money on an NA build without boring the block? A slight overbore should be mandatory unless you're starting with a brand new, factory block (and even then it should be at least checked first)

no one can answer the reliability issue as it's down to

1. how good the install is
2. how good the tune is'
3. how responsible an owner/driver you are (particularly as far as maintenance, etc)

some people have better luck than others, no matter what route they go...even when the car is bone stock
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 04:34 AM
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Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick 2
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 04:36 AM
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My suggestion is to leave it N/A. The fact you even concerned about reliability means you're not ready for F/I right now.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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I would look forward to a better ET, but I do not see a ET so I do not know what “better” may be.

https://my350z.com/forum/drag/233840...ons-stock.html
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 07:46 AM
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o god..daily what should i do boost it or no and what will it do if i do this or that....get outta here
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Z1 Performance
you're going to spend all that money on an NA build without boring the block? A slight overbore should be mandatory unless you're starting with a brand new, factory block (and even then it should be at least checked first)

no one can answer the reliability issue as it's down to

1. how good the install is
2. how good the tune is'
3. how responsible an owner/driver you are (particularly as far as maintenance, etc)

some people have better luck than others, no matter what route they go...even when the car is bone stock
thanks, that makes sense. as far as the n/a build would you consider that more reliable than stock if done correctly? and also since your running a similar setup what type of 1/4 mile times are you able to get?
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 11:16 AM
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Originally Posted by djamps
Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick 2
Nice! How true!
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by djamps
Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick 2
yea I see your point. I would like fast and reliable, but cheap is relative. I would like to do one or the other, and I dont have the money to both build the engine AND fi, but if I can still hit 100k on a supercharger with conservative driving i'd be happy with that. I think I drive pretty conservative. mostly city driving at 25mph or below, and our freeway speed limit is at highest 60 and I dont exceed it except maybe once a month for a few seconds.

But if I can actually gain more reliability and enough power to get into the low 13, high 12's 1/4 mile by staying n/a I think id rather do that.
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Old Mar 28, 2011 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by vq30dez
thanks, that makes sense. as far as the n/a build would you consider that more reliable than stock if done correctly? and also since your running a similar setup what type of 1/4 mile times are you able to get?
again, no one can tell you one is more or less reliable than another, there are too many variables and not nearly enough cars prepared this way to have any real figures

I'm not much into drag racing, and there are no tracks nearby, so I have no times for my car, sorry
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Old Apr 4, 2011 | 08:00 AM
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Originally Posted by djamps
Fast
Cheap
Reliable

Pick 2
This
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