tookrzy4u192

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good! Numbers are nice as well

Mr. Nibiru

How so. I think the results speak more than your mediocre advice. VQs do well with small bolt on with 20-30whp gains. Anything more is a waste of money. I have been around since 2003 to know this. The only way to see major gains is with forced induction.

Show me a single HR dyno which goes against what I am saying.

I can show countless ones which back up what I am saying on the NA dispute.

Mr. Nibiru

In terms of N/A build the final drive is about as good as it get's. The next bang for the buck is plenum, and after than high flow cats/straight through pipe and after cat back.

If you want to see substantial gains past 30whp go with forced induction. You just won't have the reliability of an NA 350z. Taking an NA car to FI is hard. Leaving it as is the way to go in terms of reliability.

If you want boost go with a car that has boost from the factory.
Way less problems overall.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

I never argued that some Z's wont need tunes, but to say that none will and that is the norm is way off.

I too have been around since 2003, and owned a Z since then, and been thru every stage of modification, and raced them all, and broken a $hit ton of parts. The difference between you and me is that you obviously haven't learned much in your time here

As the OP's tuner told him, he seemed lucky that his stock tune was doing well with the mods. Most Z's do not do well with that many mods, they will usually run LEAN. Not only is that not safe but it isn't uncommon to see a full bolt-on, un-tuned Z, dyno only slightly above a stock one.

That has repeated itself again and again for the past 8 years. I went thru that myself. My car with bolt-ons had a WOT A/F leaner than 14.5:1.

To say that "this particular car didn't need a tune" may be a fair assessment.

But to say that unless you have headwork or are FI a tune isnt needed is a blanket statement and terrible advice. The gains that most people get when full bolt ons and then tuned isn't always in peak numbers, you have to measure the gains in the drive ability that the car gets back or in midrange (TQ gains), which is worth more.

Vince@R/TTuning

iTrader: (7)

I love the short and to the point advice!!!!


I have tuned dozens of HR cars and I would say one out of every few have the same results. Sometimes when they come in they are running pretty perfect timing and a touch lean like the OP stated. All we can do is smooth out the fuel and timing maps and maybe get another degree of timing out of it. I think the Dyno sheet looks smooth and is making good power for the mods he has. The only thing I might do is lower the Rev limit to 7800-8000. Also it looks like they only Rev'd it to 7800 on the dyno sheet....

CaligrownZ

iTrader: (1)

****, to clear things up.. the shop had the rpms set at 8.2k during the dyno and after reading the sheet and seeing the power loss, he tuned it down... i left the shop with the Rev limiter set at 7.8k.

tylerxfire

iTrader: (15)

theres more to power than peak power

Mr. Nibiru

So since you actually tune cars you can honestly answer my question.

With a bolt ons is the 350z's ECU capable of adapting without leaning out to much as stated by the other member of the forum.

I am in the mindset that a tune is honestly needed with so few bolt ons and can be driven just fine without it. Most cars I have seen that involve intakes actually run to rich.

Mr. Nibiru

Exactly. I bet the power delivery is very nice to the your butt dyno.

Wired 24/7

iTrader: (2)

I can speak for the DE which is no, the ECU does not adapt for **** to bolt-ons. Adding things like a 5/16" plenum spacer etc netted me power but leaned out the AFR in the lower RPM range, not to unsafe levels but not optimal, while upper RPM range remained too rich. (that's right, you can be too lean and too rich at the same time) The AFR didn't change at all over several months of driving (monitored using cipher).

A good tune will help a stock DE by a significant margin. To put numbers out there, all I have done to my 05 touring is MREV2, 5/16" spacer, popcharger, and tune. The MREV2 and 5/16" spacer added about 12-14 hp all the way under the curve (before and after dyno), the popcharger did nothing noticeable on the dyno (I also previously had kinetix HFC which did nothing as well, ended up taking those off), then a good tune netted another 12-14 hp all the way under the curve.

The tune can't change anything about the flow characteristics, just timing and fuel.

I am not going to comment about the adaptability of the ECU in the HR, particularly the one in this thread.

Lots of people make bad decisions with bolt ons, it's not surprising to see full bolt on Z's with basically same power as stock. If your bolt ons aren't making power before the tune, chances are they won't help much when tuned either.



^truth

N35.7

This doesn't seem to make sense. If he's closer to peak power on his next shift after shifting from 8,200RPMs, didn't he just waste however many hundreds of RPMs from the previous gear?? So, if a car makes peak power at exactly 7,000RPMs, why am I going to waste time and drop off power once I leave 7 grand, say if my redline is at 7,500??

CTZ860

iTrader: (2)

Dumb random question here but I saw someone mentioned it....
Do they have plenum's for the Hr's? I thought this was only a de thing...?

Also, Caligrown....which injens are you running? The long tube or the regular stage 2 ones that go where the stock ones go?

CaligrownZ

iTrader: (1)

Im running the long tube CAI, i can take a pic of them tomorrow if you like?

Wu-Watt

iTrader: (24)

Buy a lsd... Great upgrade.

rdrfronty

Peak power gains are not everything. I had all of the standard bolt-ons before I got tuned. Those bolt-ons gained me about 20-25whp and about 5 tenths in the 1/4. After that I decided to get a good Uprev dynotune. I was hoping for big number gains too. But I only gained 10whp with the uprev tune. BUT, this 10whp gained me another 5 tenths in the 1/4 mile. The power gains were much smoother and usuable. It felt like I gained 3 times as much power. The difference were night and day.
And as stated by the members above, your still taking a little gamble assuming your ECU is doing the job of keeping your A/F's safe. Thats a risky assumption. A tune is a good idea on ANY level of performance--even stock, simple bolt-ons, full built NA, and of course FI.

CTZ860

iTrader: (2)

When you guys say a tune are you talking professionally tuned or just getting the uprev and throwing a random map on the car?
I am curious if the uprev increases throttle response.....? Anyone got any input for that.
It seems as though when you mat it at lower rpms...(2-3k) there is slight hesitation or a little jump in the tach...I am wondering if there is something that makes it a smooth pickup as soon as you put that pedal down. I have seen on the advertisements here some "sprint pedal booster" or something that helps w/throttle response. Anyone have any experience with that?
Retails for about $340 if I'm not mistaken...

N35.7

To answer the only question I know how: yes, a dyno tune is always better than a pre-set tune. The tuner on a dyno tune can fine adjust nearly everything necessary, while the plug and play is simply that-plug and play.

I'm pretty sure that the UpRev will increase some throttle response, but I don't know to what kind of degree.

JDM_Joe

iTrader: (4)

congrats bro

Junkster

iTrader: (3)

this

wbc

Sprintbooster？$340? so expensive. i would prefer electronic throttle accelerator made in China.