Well heres a quick background of my situation. I completed an auto to manual transmission swap. I replaced the engine BAY harness, not the engine harness. The harness I replaced connects to the headlights, radiator fans, fuse boxes, clutch, brake and gas pedals etc. I made sure all 3 grounding points on this harness are clean and tight in the original locations. Since I did NOT replace the engine harness, I did a nuetral safety bypass. (tapped into tcm, ran wire to nuetral safety switch, then ran a wire to a ground). By doing this, I left one of the auto transmission connections un-touched/ un-used (at check light stays on). I also placed the battery in the trunk. The original negative terminal is grounded to the firewall. I made sure to clean the paint so that the ground is touching bare metal. I did the same with the new negative cable in the trunk. So quick review of the only ground cables I messed with...

1) Engine Bay Harness- 3 grounds. Checked for cleanliness and tightness
2) Battery Grounds- 2 grounds. Original is now grounded to the fire wire with a cleaned/ bare metal location. Same with new ground in the trunk
3) Nuetral safety Switch- 1 ground. Friend did the ground connection while I was doing other things so I am un- aware if its connection is with bare metal.

Now here's my dilemma. I am throwing a U1000 code. (can message error). Basically, the computers talk to one another and there is a disruption some where in the system. I was told a very likely and common cause to this is a bad ground. My brake lights and blinkers work just fine, but when my running lights turn on at night with my head lights... I keep popping a fuse. But my brake lights and blinkers remain to work.

Here's my hunch to this situation.
1) Not a clean/ good enough ground on the neutral safety switch
2) Since I did not replace the engine harness, I have no reverse lights for the time being... I dont know why this would cause the running lights to pop a fuse but just throwing it out there
3) Original ground on battery needs to be grounded to battery??
4) Since the auto transmission connection is not in use...

If anyone can give me any insight or a solution to this, I would greatly appreciate it

 

"...but when my running lights turn on at night with my head lights... I keep popping a fuse."

By "running lights", I assume you mean tail lights, parking lights, etc. I also assume you're blowing the 10A fuse for those lights. They're controlled by a relay in the IPDM/ER, and the relay coil is connected to ground by the CPU in the IPDM/ER when you turn them on.

It's hard to imagine a grounding problem could interfere with that. It's more likely you've inadvertently connected something to that circuit that shouldn't be there.

 

i had 1 of my abs wheel sensors unplugged on accident and it gave me a u1000 code. Not that you have a wheel sensor unhooked but i'm sure if anything isn't properly connected or maybe a connection was forgotten then it would have an issue communicating.

 

i had the same problem with my lights a while back, turned out to be the ipdm. i could squeeze it and make my lighs come on. i kept popping fuses to. replaced it and it seems to be fixed

 

Yes, when I refer to "running lights'' I mean the 10a fused tail light that goes on at night. I do NOT mean the tail lights blinkers, brake lights... those are fine.

The only thing I have connected in my entire system is the neutral safety bypass. I wire tapped to the tcm (pin 102) and ran a wire to the neutral safety switch, then ran another wire from the switch to a grounding spot. I have stock radio, alarm... everything.

 

I have done the swap as well. I know the reverse lights shouldn't cause this as I do not get the code. Did you swap ECUs or BCMs? If not, did you at least reflash the ECU?

 

I though the BCM and ECU both have to come from the same car? No?

 

I swapped the ecu from the same year and model (04 g35 coupe), but obviously from a MT equipped car. The harness was also from the same year car (both cars are non- navi) as well as the driveshaft, center console, e brake, and pedals. No, I have not re-flashed the ecu. You and I have spoken a few months before, much thanks for the tips you have given me in the past =)

 

Hey Sleeper, please tell me you found a fix to this problem and can you tell me what the solution was?

 

Dude hasn't been active since March. I wouldn't hold your breath waiting on a response.

 

I was having the same issue, no crank no start, gear indicator blank, blowing fuse/no tail lights or illumination windshield wiper motor constantly on with key in on position. Ran a scan on it and got P0603 PCM/ECM malfunction, P1111 Intake Valve Timing Control Solenoid Valve, U1000 CAN Communication Connection, a IPDM code and I believe a MAF code. I changed the engine bay body/ headlight harness (real bad shape bunch of fused wire due to a aftermarket remote start/ alarm installed by previous owner) and ipdm, cleared codes and scanned again an now I just have CAM com U1000 code. Checked the CAM connectors and found another melted wire on the main body/dash harness so I yanked it out an waiting to get the new one tomorrow and install it. I just really really hope that works and I can take her for a spin again

. If anyone had similar issues please I beg of the let me know. Lol
Melted wire



Current situation but harness is completely out now<br/>

 

Someone still out there?

So two problems. I did manual swap on my 03 350z, I did bypass Grey/Red Stripe Wire straight to positive on the IPDM.


My car will randomly turn off when stopping at stop lights. I cant figure it out at all.

Running lights, Taillights, Whatever you want to call them do not work. Replaced blown fuse with new one. Worked for about a hour and after getting home have no lights again. Fuse is good. Brake Lights work just not running lights.

I have the infamous U1000 code also idk if that helps at all.