Been doing some research and noticed that the Z32 [300zx] uses the same differential housing as our Z33 [350z] which is the "Nissan R200V".

Benefit of this swap, if it is possible, is the Final Drive Gear Ratio:
1) 300zx non turbo - 4.083:1 FD w/ vlsd

Only differences that I can see so far are:
1) companion flange
2) axle stubs
3) cover
4) side mounting flanges

But the companion flange and cover can be swapped over from our Z33 diff to the Z32 diff. And the axle stubs can be swapped as long as your diff came with VLSD.

Only thing I am not sure of yet is:
1) if the side mounting flanges are identically aligned
2) if the differential cases have identical vertical and horizontal measurements [exp: R32 GTR R200V differential has a hump on top compared to the 240sx R200V differential]

Seeing as how a complete Z32 differential can be bought for about ~$150, if this swap is possible, this will be a great savings compared to buying a set of 4.083 FD gears and having them installed

300zx non turbo differential pix



350z differential pix

 

Has anyone tried this swap or has any information that may help lead to an answer?

 

Be the first to venture.

 

I feel like DavidV is out of the game so I'll say:

Call yourself a pioneer. A visionary. A Trailblazer.

I mean that with none of the sarcasm though.

 

Got some rough measurements tonight a friends z32.
I used a measuring tape, but Unfortunately i think i am going to need a different method of measuring the diff due to its shape.

Rough measurements:
1) z32 diff width ~8.5"
2) z32 diff width between side mounting bolts ~6"
from center of bolt to center of bolt

 

Hmm I have one laying around but mine is a tt rear because I put a whole name rear sub in to get rid of 4ws crap.

 

the TT uses the R230.

 

+1
The tt uses a r230 diff which has bigger fd gears, so the case itself is of different dimensions

 

In for results.

 

Bump for R & D and DIY!

 

Update

 

tbt? info? or am I gonna have to figure this out myself? lol

 

i am going to go out on a limb here and say that since nobody has responded to this thread in 2 years (except you) that you are going to have to figure it out on your own

 

I've got an N/A rear end from a 1995 nissan 300zx bolted into my 07 350z. It's not a simple bolt up affair. CV axles are 6 bolt in the 350z where the 300zx diff is 5 bolt. Having said that you can unband the boots to the axle cups and take the 5 bolt cups off the 300zx axles and swap them onto the 350z no problem, they fit perfectly.

Real problem starts with bolting the rear end in place. To begin with the 300zx rear end has two studs in the back ment to go through the subframe and the 350z rear end has one. I got around this by drilling a hole into the subframe, making sure it's level. I did that just so I wouldn't have to remove the stud on that side. Other side I tightened down like you normally would. The two bolts up front on the 300zx diff do not line up, the 350z diff is wider at this point. I got around this by fabricating some polyurethane mounts and using a couple spacers I made from the old rubber mounts on the 300zx diff. The bolts are M12 1.25 pitch fine thread. I bought some from an online store, you'll need to do that because the factory ones aren't long enough. Make sure you get grade 10.9, anything less isn't strong enough. I got 100mm length ones and it worked well enough.

Finally the driveshaft. It's a 4 bolt just like the 300zx however on the 350z the bolts are bigger and the holes are wider apart. Picture a cross + with a hole at each end now make the cross bigger by 1/4 of an inch. I got around this by taking off the 300zx part (can't think of what the name of the part is the driveshaft bolts to) and using a big punch and a 20 ton press I widened the holes. This warped the part of course, the metal has to go somewhere. After I widened them enough I grinded down the surface to make it flat. Then I used the 300zx driveshaft bolts and lock washers to bolt it up and it bolted up fine. If your worried about balance and center the 350z driveshaft has an inner lip where it bolts into the rear diff. That lip is there to center the driveshaft to the diff, keeping the driveshaft and balanced. The z32 diff has the same space where that lip goes into and it fits like it's ment to. I've put about 100 miles on the car along with some baseline dyno runs. Feels great having a 4.08 gear in the back for only 150 bucks (bought mine at a local junkyard).

So can it be done, yep, if you've got the money it'd be better of course to buy the quaiffe diff that bolts perfectly into the open diff housing and there's no break-in time and you can have whatever gear you want installed. I couldn't afford the 1300 dollar price tag.

 

Nice!
Thank you for responding

In regards to the z32 rear cover having 2 bolts, couldnt you have just swapped over the z33 cover onto the z32 diff?

And in regards to the z32 companion flange holes not matching up with the z33 drive shaft flange, again couldn't you have just swapped over the z33 companion flange onto the z32 differential?

I really like the idea about the axles....

 

Or what about this:
As an alternative to going with the complete z32 pumpkin would be to just pluck out the z32 na gears and swap them into your z33 pumpkin... One would only have to re use the z32 half shafts (due to the spline count) and z32 axle hats as mentioned above?
Save some money of the cost of gears

 

aren't Z32 TT autos FD 4.09? that'll be cheaper, and a quicker FD than the more common 3.9... which I think the z34 uses...

 

Z32 na 4.083
Z33 mt 3.5
Z34 mt 3.7

 

Any pix of the setup?

 

Anyone know what the spline count is on the z32 half shafts?