newer ford f150 oil cooler?
02-04-2013, 06:49 PM
#1
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newer ford f150 oil cooler?
I have been wanting to do a diy oil cooler install and i came across a deal for a factory f150 oil cooler for 75$. What are your thoughts on using a factory ford oil cooler vs aftermarket?
Other than mounting i should not have any other issues ...correct?
Other than mounting i should not have any other issues ...correct?
Last edited by Zmindset; 02-04-2013 at 07:20 PM.
02-04-2013, 08:33 PM
#3
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heat exchange is heat exchange…as long as it seals up then you should be good to go…
I'm curious, what Ford engine did it come off of?
I'm curious, what Ford engine did it come off of?
02-05-2013, 03:33 AM
#4
02-05-2013, 02:42 PM
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I am running a medium sized b&m on my car. Only problem was it was standard. I wanted to run AN 10 fittings so I just simply had them welded. With this cooler my tems on your average miami summer day stay around 180 driving spirited, 160 cruising on the highway which is too cold but I preffer it since the car will be tracked. Highest i've seen is 220. We will see at the track.... so yeah man go ahead something is better than nothing.
02-05-2013, 02:48 PM
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What kind of application I you trying to setup for this oil cooler? If it is for street, you should be OK, but if it is for track, it is a little be under size for cooler. There are several things you need to look into when it is come to DIY oil cooler for your 350Z.
1. Size of the cooler (for street 13-19 rows, track 21-34 rows)
2. Size of fittings and lines (for street 8AN, for trac 10AN)
3. Quality of the cooler (Setrab is the way to go, won't leak, won't loose oil pressure and 1, 2, and 3 pass cooler design)
Remember, oil cooler for your car is like your blood supply. If settle for cheap parts, like bad design cooler restricts oil flow which lead to low oil pressure to supply sufficient oil to lubricate and protect internal parts of the engine. So, you want to find the right parts to setup your oil cooler to bring down engine oil temperature to help your engine perform better, not worst.
1. Size of the cooler (for street 13-19 rows, track 21-34 rows)
2. Size of fittings and lines (for street 8AN, for trac 10AN)
3. Quality of the cooler (Setrab is the way to go, won't leak, won't loose oil pressure and 1, 2, and 3 pass cooler design)
Remember, oil cooler for your car is like your blood supply. If settle for cheap parts, like bad design cooler restricts oil flow which lead to low oil pressure to supply sufficient oil to lubricate and protect internal parts of the engine. So, you want to find the right parts to setup your oil cooler to bring down engine oil temperature to help your engine perform better, not worst.
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02-05-2013, 06:01 PM
#8
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Thread Starter
What kind of application I you trying to setup for this oil cooler? If it is for street, you should be OK, but if it is for track, it is a little be under size for cooler. There are several things you need to look into when it is come to DIY oil cooler for your 350Z.
1. Size of the cooler (for street 13-19 rows, track 21-34 rows)
2. Size of fittings and lines (for street 8AN, for trac 10AN)
3. Quality of the cooler (Setrab is the way to go, won't leak, won't loose oil pressure and 1, 2, and 3 pass cooler design)
Remember, oil cooler for your car is like your blood supply. If settle for cheap parts, like bad design cooler restricts oil flow which lead to low oil pressure to supply sufficient oil to lubricate and protect internal parts of the engine. So, you want to find the right parts to setup your oil cooler to bring down engine oil temperature to help your engine perform better, not worst.
1. Size of the cooler (for street 13-19 rows, track 21-34 rows)
2. Size of fittings and lines (for street 8AN, for trac 10AN)
3. Quality of the cooler (Setrab is the way to go, won't leak, won't loose oil pressure and 1, 2, and 3 pass cooler design)
Remember, oil cooler for your car is like your blood supply. If settle for cheap parts, like bad design cooler restricts oil flow which lead to low oil pressure to supply sufficient oil to lubricate and protect internal parts of the engine. So, you want to find the right parts to setup your oil cooler to bring down engine oil temperature to help your engine perform better, not worst.
This would be for street use with the occasional drag day.
I live in boston and daily drive my z. temps are cooler most months threw out the year and gets cold as f***. I dont want the oil to get too cold which is why i looked up a factory oil cooler to be safe. Should i worry about the oil getting to cold? I know you stated 13—19 row oil cooler would be ideal for street use. How do you measure oil cooler rows to different climates? My thought is ...what will work for one living in az wouldnt apply to someone living in canada. Or will it?
02-05-2013, 07:03 PM
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You don't. You just want to pick the most efficient setup for your application. For street, you can even run 34 rows setup, but having the thermostat to control oil flows when is needed. Bigger oil cooler add more oil to your engine, which is the good thing. However, it will add more weight to your front end. So, choose what fits best for you.
02-06-2013, 07:53 AM
#10
Looks ok. You can still get stuff cheaper that is definitely on par if not better.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ol_Oil_Coolers
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/p...ol_Oil_Coolers
The Tru-Cool 24 row is more than enough for Track purposes and still a chore to fit in the front correctly. Pressure drop on the Tru-Cools and heat removal capacity are hard to beat for the $, as well as durability.
Just my 2 cents
Last edited by ian99rt; 02-06-2013 at 07:55 AM.
02-06-2013, 01:07 PM
#12
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...n-a-na-hr.html
02-06-2013, 01:53 PM
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You would be surprise how much heat the 350Z can generated when run on the track or hard driving on the street. Last time as I remembered, I had to use ice and water to cool down both the oil cooler and radiator my first 5 laps session at the road course track. Tru-Cool is good for low budget project car, but I prefer use Setrab. Because Setrab cooler has lesser chance to crack or leak when you mount hard position. Tru-Cool or earl's cooler needs to mount with vibration isolator, and fitting port is very soft and easy to strip, crack and leak when assembly and mount on car. So be careful, choose a high quality and durable cooler to help to cool down your engine oil to perform better, not worst. It is better than sorry.
02-06-2013, 02:15 PM
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[QUOTE]
This is not an HR, but it has turbo setup with front mount intercooler, so I guess you could consider this setup as an HR with long tube CAI. I am sure you can fit a 34 or 36 rows cooler like this. They have a 25 rows setup in the picture.
02-06-2013, 09:48 PM
#15
remove the crash bar(its not doing anything anyway its designed to help the bumper keep its shape in impacts under 5 mph which is why some manufacturers list them as 5 mph bumpers in there systems when looking them up and tons make them out of foam.) from there you can easily mount it in the holes left and give it direct airflow. gotta remove the plastic too
Apparently you havn't seen an HR with long tube intakes try to fit one
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...n-a-na-hr.html
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...n-a-na-hr.html
02-07-2013, 01:46 AM
#16
remove the crash bar(its not doing anything anyway its designed to help the bumper keep its shape in impacts under 5 mph which is why some manufacturers list them as 5 mph bumpers in there systems when looking them up and tons make them out of foam.) from there you can easily mount it in the holes left and give it direct airflow. gotta remove the plastic too
Not trying to be mean spirited or talk down but seriously?
The aluminum crash bar is not simply there for a 5mph impacts, it is the only piece of metal on the very front of the car holding the left and right sides together. You'll severely weaken and loosen up the chassis by doing what you've proposed. Plus you'll lose your tow hook attachment point as well.
Granted the foam between the front fascia and alum crash bumper does little except take a light impact but I feel safer with it
MonkeyMagic72: Very well routed oil cooler setup
, I'm guessing your running an aftermarket bumper with air ducts where the front reflectors are? I wouldn't consider installing an oil cooler in this area on a stock bumper, there is zero air flow in the area.Everyone: There is a right and wrong way to install an oil cooler, please don't take your car's cardiovascular system lightly.....
02-07-2013, 10:36 AM
#17
Tell that to all the high horsepower guys in the FI forum...NONE of them have their crash bars on to fit their large intercoolers 
I sure hope your not serious about this........
Not trying to be mean spirited or talk down but seriously?
The aluminum crash bar is not simply there for a 5mph impacts, it is the only piece of metal on the very front of the car holding the left and right sides together. You'll severely weaken and loosen up the chassis by doing what you've proposed. Plus you'll lose your tow hook attachment point as well.
Granted the foam between the front fascia and alum crash bumper does little except take a light impact but I feel safer with it
MonkeyMagic72: Very well routed oil cooler setup, I'm guessing your running an aftermarket bumper with air ducts where the front reflectors are? I wouldn't consider installing an oil cooler in this area on a stock bumper, there is zero air flow in the area.
Everyone: There is a right and wrong way to install an oil cooler, please don't take your car's cardiovascular system lightly.....
Not trying to be mean spirited or talk down but seriously?
The aluminum crash bar is not simply there for a 5mph impacts, it is the only piece of metal on the very front of the car holding the left and right sides together. You'll severely weaken and loosen up the chassis by doing what you've proposed. Plus you'll lose your tow hook attachment point as well.
Granted the foam between the front fascia and alum crash bumper does little except take a light impact but I feel safer with it
MonkeyMagic72: Very well routed oil cooler setup
, I'm guessing your running an aftermarket bumper with air ducts where the front reflectors are? I wouldn't consider installing an oil cooler in this area on a stock bumper, there is zero air flow in the area.Everyone: There is a right and wrong way to install an oil cooler, please don't take your car's cardiovascular system lightly.....
02-07-2013, 10:41 AM
#18
Lol no your very wrong that's all it is, aluminum dosnt do anything to stiffen a chassis especiallu not rectangular aluminum. Like I said a signicicant number of manufacturers(note most modern chevys) have NO metal up there its a piece of foam riveted to plastic mounting plates. I actually am ase and icar gold certified(well passed the test need more then just my school time to actually wear the patch) the strut tower bar is what stiffens the front end not the crash bar. Attempting to use it for stiffening would just rub holes through the aluminum with the steel bolts.
Don't believe me? Go track it with and without it with a non biased driver(possibly don't tell them which test is which) guarantee there's no difference. As far as safety is concerened all the saftey is built into the sub frame itself the crush boxs are right back near where it mounts to the unibody. Possibly ones right in front of the engine mounts as well I would have to look it up. That's where the safety aspect comes from those areas are what absorbs the energy.
Don't believe me? Go track it with and without it with a non biased driver(possibly don't tell them which test is which) guarantee there's no difference. As far as safety is concerened all the saftey is built into the sub frame itself the crush boxs are right back near where it mounts to the unibody. Possibly ones right in front of the engine mounts as well I would have to look it up. That's where the safety aspect comes from those areas are what absorbs the energy.
I sure hope your not serious about this........
Not trying to be mean spirited or talk down but seriously?
The aluminum crash bar is not simply there for a 5mph impacts, it is the only piece of metal on the very front of the car holding the left and right sides together. You'll severely weaken and loosen up the chassis by doing what you've proposed. Plus you'll lose your tow hook attachment point as well.
Granted the foam between the front fascia and alum crash bumper does little except take a light impact but I feel safer with it
MonkeyMagic72: Very well routed oil cooler setup, I'm guessing your running an aftermarket bumper with air ducts where the front reflectors are? I wouldn't consider installing an oil cooler in this area on a stock bumper, there is zero air flow in the area.
Everyone: There is a right and wrong way to install an oil cooler, please don't take your car's cardiovascular system lightly.....
Not trying to be mean spirited or talk down but seriously?
The aluminum crash bar is not simply there for a 5mph impacts, it is the only piece of metal on the very front of the car holding the left and right sides together. You'll severely weaken and loosen up the chassis by doing what you've proposed. Plus you'll lose your tow hook attachment point as well.
Granted the foam between the front fascia and alum crash bumper does little except take a light impact but I feel safer with it
MonkeyMagic72: Very well routed oil cooler setup
, I'm guessing your running an aftermarket bumper with air ducts where the front reflectors are? I wouldn't consider installing an oil cooler in this area on a stock bumper, there is zero air flow in the area.Everyone: There is a right and wrong way to install an oil cooler, please don't take your car's cardiovascular system lightly.....
02-07-2013, 11:14 AM
#19
Lol no your very wrong that's all it is, aluminum dosnt do anything to stiffen a chassis especiallu not rectangular aluminum. Like I said a signicicant number of manufacturers(note most modern chevys) have NO metal up there its a piece of foam riveted to plastic mounting plates. I actually am ase and icar gold certified(well passed the test need more then just my school time to actually wear the patch) the strut tower bar is what stiffens the front end not the crash bar. Attempting to use it for stiffening would just rub holes through the aluminum with the steel bolts.
Don't believe me? Go track it with and without it with a non biased driver(possibly don't tell them which test is which) guarantee there's no difference. As far as safety is concerened all the saftey is built into the sub frame itself the crush boxs are right back near where it mounts to the unibody. Possibly ones right in front of the engine mounts as well I would have to look it up. That's where the safety aspect comes from those areas are what absorbs the energy.
Don't believe me? Go track it with and without it with a non biased driver(possibly don't tell them which test is which) guarantee there's no difference. As far as safety is concerened all the saftey is built into the sub frame itself the crush boxs are right back near where it mounts to the unibody. Possibly ones right in front of the engine mounts as well I would have to look it up. That's where the safety aspect comes from those areas are what absorbs the energy.