Stomping on clutch pedal easier gear entry
Kinda weird, but when I stomp hard on the clutch pedal, slamming it to the floor I have an easier time sliding the shifter into gear..mainly 2/3, instead of double clutching I slam it hard and feel a "thump" in the transmission opening the gear gates nicely. Any speed works well, noticeably at a fast pace shaft
160K on stock clutch with JDM pedal, not slipping, new Nissan MTF, rear dif fluid and flushed clutch line, What you you guys think? Trying to hold off on clutch replacement to save $ but I'm thinking my throw out bearing needs some GREASE
160K on stock clutch with JDM pedal, not slipping, new Nissan MTF, rear dif fluid and flushed clutch line, What you you guys think? Trying to hold off on clutch replacement to save $ but I'm thinking my throw out bearing needs some GREASE
160k its time for a new clutch, pressing it dosnt do anything to the insides of the trans it only disengages the clutch. you might be able to adjust the pedal some to help but the bottom line is you need a new clutch.
ummm describe a slow syncro? the issue is them being double cone syncros not triple cone. in all reality a triple cone like the cd009 actually operates slower with a greater surface area but double clutching is far from faster. the only thing double clutching does is enables the engine to be at the proper rpm range so the syncros arnt changing shaft speeds, its inefficient and slow though hence why syncros where invented.
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normally i would agree with faiz23 on this but like i said before its your clutch, 160k even driving like a grandma the stock clutch is going to be shot guaranteed. if the clutch isnt disengaged even the cd009 wontshift, if the clutch is worn heavily then your not disengaging it fully, at 160k its toast i wouldnt be suprised if you pulled it off and the material is worn so far that half the rivets are gone.
theres no "gates" so to speak the shifter just moves a couple shafts back and forth the selector on the various forks must be able to mesh with the gears, if the clutch dosnt disengage then the engine will continue to spin the input shaft and overpower the syncros and make it impossible to put it into gear.
theres no "gates" so to speak the shifter just moves a couple shafts back and forth the selector on the various forks must be able to mesh with the gears, if the clutch dosnt disengage then the engine will continue to spin the input shaft and overpower the syncros and make it impossible to put it into gear.
Last edited by jerryd87; Feb 25, 2013 at 09:53 PM.
Great read, I will be ordering a clutch soon, just wondering if you need to drain the fluid while changing the clutch? -just replaced the fluid and would hate to replace it once again
If I shift slow I have to double clutch, well without pressing clutch twice- just stepping on gas to rev match...without a rev match on the up shift I won't be able to shift smoothly when shifting real slow
its waste of time is what it is your going to twice as long to shift.
pretty much you clutch in shift to neutral clutch out, rev match, clutch in shift in gear clutch out.
pretty much you clutch in shift to neutral clutch out, rev match, clutch in shift in gear clutch out.
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