AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Kinda weird, but when I stomp hard on the clutch pedal, slamming it to the floor I have an easier time sliding the shifter into gear..mainly 2/3, instead of double clutching I slam it hard and feel a "thump" in the transmission opening the gear gates nicely. Any speed works well, noticeably at a fast pace shaft

160K on stock clutch with JDM pedal, not slipping, new Nissan MTF, rear dif fluid and flushed clutch line, What you you guys think? Trying to hold off on clutch replacement to save $ but I'm thinking my throw out bearing needs some GREASE

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

160k its time for a new clutch, pressing it dosnt do anything to the insides of the trans it only disengages the clutch. you might be able to adjust the pedal some to help but the bottom line is you need a new clutch.

redline06

double clutching?

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Double clutching bypasses our slow synchros

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

ummm describe a slow syncro? the issue is them being double cone syncros not triple cone. in all reality a triple cone like the cd009 actually operates slower with a greater surface area but double clutching is far from faster. the only thing double clutching does is enables the engine to be at the proper rpm range so the syncros arnt changing shaft speeds, its inefficient and slow though hence why syncros where invented.

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Well what blocks the shifter from goin into gear even when the clutch is at the floor?

faiz23

worn synchros

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

normally i would agree with faiz23 on this but like i said before its your clutch, 160k even driving like a grandma the stock clutch is going to be shot guaranteed. if the clutch isnt disengaged even the cd009 wontshift, if the clutch is worn heavily then your not disengaging it fully, at 160k its toast i wouldnt be suprised if you pulled it off and the material is worn so far that half the rivets are gone.

theres no "gates" so to speak the shifter just moves a couple shafts back and forth the selector on the various forks must be able to mesh with the gears, if the clutch dosnt disengage then the engine will continue to spin the input shaft and overpower the syncros and make it impossible to put it into gear.

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

Great read, I will be ordering a clutch soon, just wondering if you need to drain the fluid while changing the clutch? -just replaced the fluid and would hate to replace it once again

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

not unless you spill it out the trans when you remove the driveshaft, get a tailshaft plug and it wont.

saywat?

try shift slower?

Tazrek

Can one of you guys explain double clutching and how to do it? I feel as though i am "grandma" shifting as i just press the clutch in and shift up?? haha?

faiz23

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

If I shift slow I have to double clutch, well without pressing clutch twice- just stepping on gas to rev match...without a rev match on the up shift I won't be able to shift smoothly when shifting real slow

AARONHL

iTrader: (1)

I'm excited to buy a new clutch and fly this thread gave me some inspiration!!

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

its waste of time is what it is your going to twice as long to shift.

pretty much you clutch in shift to neutral clutch out, rev match, clutch in shift in gear clutch out.