exodus1337

Just bought a 2006 G35 with a Vortech Supercharger running 8psi.. Currently using 0w40 M1.. Doing research on Torco, Amsoil, Redline and Motul as well as oils that meet GF-5 Standards... Looking for some feedback from people running turbo or supercharger setups over time and what they have seen?

Saw the Amsoil analysis sheet and it looks like Amsoil and Redline have amazing Noack readouts... Redline around 6% loss and Amsoil around 7% loss.. But Redline has bad Teost results.. it looked like over 30mg so I asked Redline about this and they said its because they use European oil chemistry and dont report to API regulation standards or something..Apparently in Europe they dont do the Teost test... But high Teost readings means higher oil depository tendencies? I am not sure if Redline has been proven to leave bad residue or anything like that after long term use, does anyone know? I really like the Noack readings on Amsoil and Redline, 6% at 250c is really good for beating on your motor... I can be hard on my VQ and since its boosted I am looking for the best oil... Does anyone have any idea if I should use AMS signature 10w30 or Redline 5w40... Or something else? Or just stick with 0w40 M1? The Noack on M1 is like 12 or higher so it burns more at higher temps...


Redline

"Regarding the cold-crank, our product is designed to be on the high end. It satisfies the 5W, and that allows us to have better high temperature properties, such as lower volatility and better HTHS. Synthetics have much better pump-ability than petroleum's, so as long as the cold-crank is adequate for engine starting, the oil will pump very well.

Regarding the TEOST, it appears that their average was 1% above the limit. This limit is established for the low-phosphorous Resource-conserving SN. The non-resource conserving SN uses a different TEOST at a lower temperature which we would surely pass, and for those CF/SN not controlled to a 0.08% phosphorous there is no limit on the TEOST. The TEOST has a plus or minus 10% repeatability, so I am going to run both TEOST tests on the oil to see what results we get.

The TEOST is primarily designed to evaluate low-phosphorous oils. We use a European additive chemistry so that we can have very solid ACEA performance and they do not use the TEOST test, and they have plenty of turbochargers to protect. This is primarily a matter of higher ZDDP oils versus lower ZDDP oils."

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

you are WAY over thinking this, to this date the still top of the line anti wear additives for high pressure is zinc and phosphorus or zddp. anything over 1k is perfectly fine, your dumping a ton of cash into oils when you can buy one of the heavy duty diesel oils like rotella and have JUST as good performance. the reasons standard street oils dont work is because they only have around 700 ppm, thats why racers used to use GM eos additives and the like on regular sreet oils. really this has been covered far to much and your trying to find a over complicated answer to a simple problem

djamps

iTrader: (1)

I have tried many oils (Motul, Amsoil, and several flavors of M1) but keep going back to M1 turbo diesel 5w40 which has consistently given the best UOA's (I actually test every change). You can listen to the he-said she-said or you can run some tests like I did.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

also remember those shitty standards you mention like gf-5 have nothing to do with performance, they are moving to those for emissions purposes nothing more, the older specifications will all have better performance in extreme operating conditions. after all you think any racing league uses a gf-5 oil?

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

here yah go take a look at this, it even comments on how they dont want to reduce phosphorus anymore due to anti wear property's and also about how zinc is a traditional and proven solution but often contains phosphorus. find something with high zddp levels, rotella has 1000 of phosphorus and 1200 of zinc iirc. i know both are over 1000 ppm but cant remember the exact numbers
http://www.gf-5.com/the_story/performance/

exodus1337

Good info guys.. I am not trying to over think this... lol... I know certain oils that have been deemed good also burn at higher temps compared to other oils... Or leave residue behind causing internal issues over long time periods of use...

Interesting that 5w40 gives you good results, it looks like 0w40 is a better oil from the specs on their site... Did each of your results come back with good oil levels right before you changed it? Also did you ever try Redline?

5w40 M1 Trubo Diesel
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 215
Viscosity Index 153


0w40 M1
Flash Point, ºC (ASTM D92) 230
Viscosity Index 185

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

i dont measure when it comes out, but i also change every 3k now, or 2500 if ive pushed it especially hard. never tryed redline, royal purple, amsoil, or any of those pricey options. i spent 18 bucks for a gallon of rotella and it has never let me down, all the domestic guys i used to roll with also have never had a issue. no reason to try and fix what isnt broke, it has high anti wear additives and it gives full protection on my oil change intervals. the ONLY advantage they might have is they might last a bit longer but you should be changing every 3k at the latest anyway shouldnt risk it. the highest ive ever seen my rotella get to is 190 degrees actual oil temp, not sure on the flash point of the rotella but it still shouldnt get there, never had anyone who actually needed to look at the viscosity index for oil choice its always weight determining the best weight

exodus1337

I also found this good info as per M1 rep. the Noack test info is proprietary information... LOL...

Results:
Cumulative Percentage Weight Loss (relative to initial 2.002 grams of oil):
Amsoil 5W-30: At 1, 2, 3 hours: 3.60% , 6.09% , 8.09%
Mobil 1 0W-40: At 1, 2, 3 hours: 3.10% , 5.09% , 6.09%

Put another way, in terms of grams of oil lost to evaporation:
Amsoil 5W-30: At 1, 2, 3 hours: 0.072 , 0.050 , 0.040
Mobil 1 0W-40: At 1, 2, 3 hours: 0.062 , 0.040 , 0.020

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

personally im rather biased against mobile 1 because of spun bearings i saw alot in stock caddys when i worked at the dealership but that was specifically there synthetic. some people say it has nothing to do with it but even the lsx's in the escalades where doing it which never happened on the kendal conventional. so i avoid it personally and know alot of people i used to work with or others who have worked at places that use it that avoid it also. i personally like i said would find a quality diesel oil to use due to price as well as additives vs the race oils.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Lol, I run Amsoil diesel oil in my Z

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

god i can only imagine the price your spending on a oil change lol, im perfectly happy with my rotella but it is conventional not synthetic.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

About $50 , and run it for 4 days on the track. Much cheaper to change than my diesel jeep, but that goes 10k between changes.

exodus1337

Thats crazy.. I know 0w40 M1 is their new formula and factory added to GTR's and Porsches...

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

not as bad as i thought you must have a hook up im guessing(or just lower oil capacity, my setup holds about 6 quarts roughly)? the pricing i saw for that stuff was 10 bucks a quart or 38 for a gallon which would cost me 58 bucks per change plus filter. as it is now i buy 3 gallon jugs of rotella for 58 bucks so it costs me 27 in oil per change plus filter.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

I'm a dealer and have a local warehouse for pickup.

jerryd87

iTrader: (4)

explains alot, i dont have that lol at least till i get back to ohio. motovicity requires a physical location in order to be a dealer through them.

djamps

iTrader: (1)

Attached is a comparison between 5W40 and 0W40 and some others but I don't remember what kinds.

I stand corrected, it looks like 0W40 performs a little better then 5W40.

The elevated silicon in the 0W40 was from resealing my oil pan.

Given there's a dozen 1/4 runs on each sample I'd say both are doing very well... wear levels are lower than OEM averages.

Lead is the main thing that changes between oil types (bearing wear).

exodus1337

Nice! Good info! Are you on 35DE or 35HR?

I'm at 30k miles and under warranty, even with supercharger.. I'm not sure if they will honor TSB since its supercharged though.. Doesn't seem to been burning oil or blue smoke but reading all these horror stories makes me wherry.. I think I am going to buy some Wiseco pistons and reseal everything next year just to be safe...

djamps

iTrader: (1)

That would be a DE (non revup)

exodus1337

VQ35DE is 3rd gen VQ and has a revup version... VQ35HR is 4th gen VQ 2007 and up and also has a revup version as well..