Hey everyone, I am considering getting into the Z game and I found one I really like, but a friend of mine says the engine isn't forged and would not be able to handle the current build without risking the big bada boom with the NA engine. So I will list everything and I would greatly appreciate it if one of you got back to me. I don't know too much about cars but I plan on learning. Anyway here it is. I am just going to include everything from the list so apologies on the irrelevant stuff.

Year: 2004
Make: Nissan
Model: 350z
Mileage: 37,000 original miles
Engine: 3.5L V6
Transmission: 6MT

443 rwhp / 380 ft-lb at 8psi

Engine:
APS Twin Turbo Kit:
-Garrett Twin Ball Bearing Turbocharger
-APS Front Mount Intercooler
-APS Polished Stainless Steel Ducting
-APS High Energy Exhaust Manifolds
-APS High Output Injectors With Upgraded Fuel Supply
-APS High Capacity Engine oil pan
-APS High Flow Twin Cold Air Intake System
-APS High Volume Twin Vent Blow Off Valve
-APS Plug-In Unichip Engine Management
Injen Titanium Tip Track Edition True Dual Exhaust
Titek Test Pipe
Nismo Radiator Cap
Nismo Oil Cap
Rare JDM Engine Harness Cover
Greddy Oil Catch Can
Z-Speed Aluminum Undertray
(Mobile 1 - synthetic 0w40 Oil)

Drivetrain:
Quaife Helical ATB LSD

Suspension:
Tein Basic Coilover
Stillen Front & Rear Sway Bars
SPC Rear Camber Arms
SPC Rear Camber Bolts
GT Spec Front Lower Tie Brace
GT Spec Rear Tie Brace
GT Spec Rear Lateral Arm Brace

Exterior:
Nismo Body Kits & Spoiler
Nismo Black License Plate Frame
Nismo Emblem
Nismo Front Bumper Chin Finisher
Evo-R CF B-Pillars
Evo-R CF Mirror Covers
Evo-R CF Z Emblem Filler
Evo-R CF License Plate Cover
3M Gloss Black Roof Vinyl
3M Red Turn Signal Overlay
Halo LED License Plate Bulb
ProjectSilvia Short Antenna
Painted Black Door Handle
Shaved Rear Emblem
HID 5k White Headlight Kit
White LED Daytime/Parking Bulb

Wheels:
Enkei RPF1 Matt Black Limited
Edition 18x9.5 +15 & 18x10.5+15
5 x 114 bolt pattern
FalkenFK-452 Tires Front: 245/40/18 & Rear: 275/40/18
(Have second pair of rear tires, brand new)
Enkie CF Center Caps
Muteki Black Lug Nuts


Interior:
Evo-R CF Interior Kits
Evo-R CF Door Sill Covers
Nismo CF Shift ****
Nismo Ebrake Boot
Nismo Floor Mats
Works Bell Short Hub
Works Bell Quick Release
Personal 330mm Steering Wheel
Buddy Club Seat Rails & Sliders
Status Hockenheim Red Cloth Seats

Electronics:
Greddy Intelligent Informeter
Auto Meter Triple Gauges Pod (Not Install)
PLX A/F Gauge (Not Install)
Prosport Oil Pressure Gauge (Not Install)
Prosport Oil Temperature Gauge
Prosport Boost Gauge
Jensen Radio Stereo
Upgraded Bose speakers
Python Alarm System (Keyless for Entry, Fuel Door and Trunk Release)

Also including original OEM parts:
-Rear Wiper Motor and Assembly
-Exhaust Manifold Headers
-Exhaust Systems
-Catalytic Converters
-Shocks and Springs
-Sway Bars
-Stock Differential
-CD Player
-OEM speakers and tweets
-Steering Wheel
-Shift ****
-Floor Mats
-Door Sill Plates

 

If you don't know to much about cars I would highly recommend staying away from a Turbo'd Z. Just my opinion.

If you don't give a **** what I just said, than I will tell ya that I have a friend who is TT with that same kit with a stock motor and keeping it at low boost and doing 450whp and has been for 5 years now. Granted this is not a DD Z but in the end it can be just a matter of time before things can go wrong and if you have the tools and equipment or deep pockets to have someone else fix it than I say pull the trigger.

BTW APS makes good stuff.
Pics of Z??

 

No BBK and 245s up front. Is this a drag car? Getting a 07+ would be more durable.

 

If you don't know much about cars, such a vehicle shouldn't be in your radar

 

No.

 

First of welcome to the forum! You will learn so much about your 350z on here. I know I did!

Second of all we don't refer to anything involved with our 350z's as the "Z GAME". In all seriousness you should stop now before every one flames you.

Please read through this: https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...estions-3.html

It will answer a bunch of your questions. IF YOU CAN'T FIND SOMETHING PLEASE SEARCH! I'm not trying to attack you but you won't get any helpful answers from anyone on here if you don't try and do the leg work yourself. We were all new once.

 

It's only a matter of time. OP is like a chick on her period in shark infested water with this thread.

 

Welcome- your list fails to mention anything about an upgraded shortblock. With a FI application like this car, it's not a question of IF the engine will fail, it's really more a question of WHEN it will fail. I agree with the other posts here and think this is way too much car (and probably money) for someone who knows little about cars.

Start out with a good, low mileage Z and start your lessons there. Believe me, there's plenty to start your automotive education with there.

 

I bought my 2003 Track Edition Z for $16,500 in 2008 w/ 44k miles... you should buy a 2007 base 350z for similar or less. You'll have a better starting point if you don't intend to build the motor.

Or buy a rolling chassis with no engine for like $5k and spend another $15k on the engine/paint... that would be fun. You'll save yourself money this way... since you apparently want to replace everything already anyways.

 

Welcome to the forum. There's nothing I can add here that hasn't been said already and as jth4506 says, you've got to be prepared to do some legwork yourself. There is plenty of history on this site and most questions have been asked and answered many times over. Its like when you were back at school trying to copy someone's homework, it just gets annoying when you can effectively find all you need to know in past posts.

 

I would not go over 420whp with a DE engine Z. Personally, I would only sit at 400whp, especially if it is a DD.

A member on here did a oil analysis with his DE engine TT Z and found that bearing wear was normal around 380wtq, anything above that bearing wear started showing up.

I do see now that the build sits at 380wtq which is very safe and I think manageable. Most DEs have higher torque number with that HP number. Basically the number that matters is your torque number and your tune (air/fuel ratio, timing). Torque is what spins bearings and snaps rods. Tune is what will detonate or cause pre-detonation. Get those two in check will help it be a reliable car.

If you were to purchase the car, I would take it to the closest reputable Z tuner and have them do a dyno run. See the numbers, the torque number, the tune numbers and let you know if you need to modify anything. And if so, have them retune to a safe place. Also, have a compression test done. That will also help tell you the health of the internals.

Also lastly, a good problem is you don't know how much **** has been beat out of that Z car. The mileage looks fantastic though.




Edit: let me add a bit more, TIRES are a huge thing with this power. If you do not have a larger size sticky tire than don't think you're going to be "smoking" anyone at stop lights. You will actually be slower than a stock Z 0-60. So Invest in better tires. +295 and the category need sto be atleast 'Extreme Summer.' I'm running 275 Extreme summer Yokohama AD08s and I have no traction until 60-70mph.

Also, If this is not a completed car but a build plan then you are looking at atleast $25k to purchase, install and tune.

And I may have

 

Personally I have been reading about the TC vs SC issues and for my engine/ car knowledge I would advise you go with a supercharger instead of a turbo system. While I think that both systems have their pros/cons, I really believe that for under 400whp a SC would be your way to go. Generally speaking its less of a hassle to install/ maintain than a turbo kit. I agree with all the posters above that FI on the Z ( much like any car) is a huge investment of money/ time, and it should not be taken lightly. Remember the 7 P's, "Proper Planning and Preparation Prevents **** Poor Performance".

 

no. just no...

 

To what I said or the whole thread?

 

OP, you don't know much about cars and your going FI? See you in the Tech section...

 

The anwser is yes, your motor is not designed to handle those higher loads of stress so it will wear out quicker but there are ways to build up you motor to handle that stress, something i wouldnt suggest doing on a high mile motor or if you dont have any spare change, but that also applies to every engine you throw thousands of dollors in engine performace aftermarket parts at without building from square one. It just so happens that somone already spent the big bucks on this engine and all you have to do is throw the money on the table and enjoy the ride.

 

with a 9.5 +15 wheel up front on that Tein set up, that's about all you can fit. You can "squeeze" a 255/35 in there but will have to keep the suspension 1/2" from lowest setting. A +22 or +25 would yeild a wider front tire.

 

^i run 18x10.5 +15 offset fronts with 265 35's....stock camber arms as well, and im hamberger slamered lol

As to the OP, i would advise against getting a car with this amount of modifications unless you have the financial backing as well as patience (and possibly a secondary car). Thats just my .02 cents, I know how much it sucks to jump into something that you will "learn as you go" and more often than not it just gets somewhat discouraging.

But hey, if you can get a good deal on it, and follow the advice above and it seems to be a strong and un abused build...Its up to you to take the gamble!

It really does sound like a sick z! I am also +1 to see pics

 

save money, buy a stock Z and spend all of your time at SCCA sanctioned Auto x events and track days. you dont need a lot of power to have fun.

i am a strong believer in upgrading the driver skill before the car.

 

First learn about your local state emissions\inspection laws. A boosted NA OBDII car can ruin any expected fun at first CEL! If you have deep pockets and are hell bent on a boosted Z then do it and have fun.