clutch pedal bleeding issue?
#1
clutch pedal bleeding issue?
Hey guys, I purchased a master clutch from z speed, installed it and now I'm trying to get pressure in the pedal. I've been at it for almost 2 hours, and still nothing. There's no leaks, everything is tight. Anything you guys can think of?
#3
I have the oem pedal bracket. I only changed the master clutch, the hose that came with it, I attached it to the one that attached to the transmission, I pressed down on the pedal about 5 times opened up the bleeder and pumped again for about 12 times then I just kept pumping after that but nothing.
#4
thats the issue. youre probably doing it wrong, or at least not the best way. At least in my experience, best way is to have someone help you, give the pedal a couple pumps then hold it to the floor. have someone open up the bleeder while pedal is depressed, then close it once pressure is released. pull pedal back up, couple pumps, release pressure then tighten bleeder. repeat till done. I did a full 6mt swap so I put new everything, and it was fully bled in about 15 min.
if you added the SS hose from the master(like i did) you may need to give it about 10-15 initial pumps to get the fluid to flow up the hose. It doesn't like fighting gravity at the start. user your hand to pump, its faster and easier as the pedal will keep sticking to the floor. but should be normally bled how I said after that.
if you added the SS hose from the master(like i did) you may need to give it about 10-15 initial pumps to get the fluid to flow up the hose. It doesn't like fighting gravity at the start. user your hand to pump, its faster and easier as the pedal will keep sticking to the floor. but should be normally bled how I said after that.
#5
**disclaimer This is not the only way or the exact right way to do this, just the method I used when I had a similar problem bleeding the clutch on my 03 touring after replacing a blown clutch line**
If you lose all fluid in the master cylinder you have to reverse bleed the clutch, because the master cylinder will not return to the open position and thus the clutch pedal just flops to the floor, I had the same problem when I blew a clutch line and went to bleed the clutch, put fluid in the clutch reservoir, open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and get a piece of fuel line preferably 3-4 ft long and put it over the bleed and secure it with a hose clamp, then fill the fuel line with brake fluid and and blow it into the slave cylinder either by mouth or with an air compressor (I used a compressor, brake fluid is likely the most foul tasting automotive fluid) and blow until all fluid in line has filled slave and reached master cylinder and you see bubbles forming in reservoir, then tighten bleeder remove hose and you should be able to bleed the clutch normally
If you lose all fluid in the master cylinder you have to reverse bleed the clutch, because the master cylinder will not return to the open position and thus the clutch pedal just flops to the floor, I had the same problem when I blew a clutch line and went to bleed the clutch, put fluid in the clutch reservoir, open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and get a piece of fuel line preferably 3-4 ft long and put it over the bleed and secure it with a hose clamp, then fill the fuel line with brake fluid and and blow it into the slave cylinder either by mouth or with an air compressor (I used a compressor, brake fluid is likely the most foul tasting automotive fluid) and blow until all fluid in line has filled slave and reached master cylinder and you see bubbles forming in reservoir, then tighten bleeder remove hose and you should be able to bleed the clutch normally
#6
**disclaimer This is not the only way or the exact right way to do this, just the method I used when I had a similar problem bleeding the clutch on my 03 touring after replacing a blown clutch line**
If you lose all fluid in the master cylinder you have to reverse bleed the clutch, because the master cylinder will not return to the open position and thus the clutch pedal just flops to the floor, I had the same problem when I blew a clutch line and went to bleed the clutch, put fluid in the clutch reservoir, open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and get a piece of fuel line preferably 3-4 ft long and put it over the bleed and secure it with a hose clamp, then fill the fuel line with brake fluid and and blow it into the slave cylinder either by mouth or with an air compressor (I used a compressor, brake fluid is likely the most foul tasting automotive fluid) and blow until all fluid in line has filled slave and reached master cylinder and you see bubbles forming in reservoir, then tighten bleeder remove hose and you should be able to bleed the clutch normally
If you lose all fluid in the master cylinder you have to reverse bleed the clutch, because the master cylinder will not return to the open position and thus the clutch pedal just flops to the floor, I had the same problem when I blew a clutch line and went to bleed the clutch, put fluid in the clutch reservoir, open the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder and get a piece of fuel line preferably 3-4 ft long and put it over the bleed and secure it with a hose clamp, then fill the fuel line with brake fluid and and blow it into the slave cylinder either by mouth or with an air compressor (I used a compressor, brake fluid is likely the most foul tasting automotive fluid) and blow until all fluid in line has filled slave and reached master cylinder and you see bubbles forming in reservoir, then tighten bleeder remove hose and you should be able to bleed the clutch normally
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