Slave Cylinder replaced, now hard to get into 5th?
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Slave Cylinder replaced, now hard to get into 5th?
07 6MT
Slave cylinder went, so I had it replaced. The shops drive test apparently went fine but when I went to pick it up the pedal wasn't returning all the way at first. Eventually after pumping it enough it came back to normal. Took it around everything felt fine. Next day the pedal is catching really early and again after a few pumps it comes back to normal. Every day the pedal seems to be more "normal" than before but the problem I've noticed now is that I can't get into 5th most of the time.
At idle I can get into every gear just fine except for 5th, but if I wiggle it back and forth and apply pressure it will go in. If I'm driving and do a normal 4-5 shift it will go in normally, but downshifting from 6-5 as I used to do cannot be done anymore without that "wiggle" and by that time the rpms have dropped entirely and it's no longer a smooth transition.
Could this all be from air in the lines or is something else messed up now? It seems weird to me that it would just be 5th...
Thanks for the help.
Slave cylinder went, so I had it replaced. The shops drive test apparently went fine but when I went to pick it up the pedal wasn't returning all the way at first. Eventually after pumping it enough it came back to normal. Took it around everything felt fine. Next day the pedal is catching really early and again after a few pumps it comes back to normal. Every day the pedal seems to be more "normal" than before but the problem I've noticed now is that I can't get into 5th most of the time.
At idle I can get into every gear just fine except for 5th, but if I wiggle it back and forth and apply pressure it will go in. If I'm driving and do a normal 4-5 shift it will go in normally, but downshifting from 6-5 as I used to do cannot be done anymore without that "wiggle" and by that time the rpms have dropped entirely and it's no longer a smooth transition.
Could this all be from air in the lines or is something else messed up now? It seems weird to me that it would just be 5th...
Thanks for the help.
#3
Registered User
iTrader: (15)
Agreed about the possible need for a better bleed, especially if the pedal needs to be pumped - absolutely not normal. Hopefully, a high-quality DOT 4 fluid was used.
As for the shift into 5th, did they in any way screw with the shifter? If it's not properly aligned, that might be a problem.
As for the shift into 5th, did they in any way screw with the shifter? If it's not properly aligned, that might be a problem.
#4
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I believe the replacement part was oem, but I didn't do the work myself and I didn't even think to ask (it was a long week).
Since the pedal seems to be getting better over time could I be correct in guessing that the air is slowly making it's way out? I'll check the fluid level when I get home and see if it's any lower.
Forgive my lack of knowledge but I believe they'd have to have touched the shifter since they had to drop the trans to do the work. What doesn't make sense to me is a normal 4-5 shift will go right in, it's every other shift that requires finagling. Is there anything I can look at without dropping the trans to see if it's misaligned?
Thanks for the responses guys.
Since the pedal seems to be getting better over time could I be correct in guessing that the air is slowly making it's way out? I'll check the fluid level when I get home and see if it's any lower.
Forgive my lack of knowledge but I believe they'd have to have touched the shifter since they had to drop the trans to do the work. What doesn't make sense to me is a normal 4-5 shift will go right in, it's every other shift that requires finagling. Is there anything I can look at without dropping the trans to see if it's misaligned?
Thanks for the responses guys.
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I figured out I can get into 5th no problem as long as I don't hold the shifter all the way to the right. Coming back maybe a couple of millimeters is fine, so adjusting the shifter should fix it. I just haven't had the time or daylight to get out there and do it yet.
Next question though: I now have a P0850 code, which seems to be related to detecting neutral? Is this some type of sensor they didn't hook back up?
Next question though: I now have a P0850 code, which seems to be related to detecting neutral? Is this some type of sensor they didn't hook back up?
#7
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: PA
Posts: 138
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Figured I'd update this. Adjusting the shifter did make a difference, I think I might have overadjusted it, but I can get into all the gears with no grinding now, so it's probably good enough.
For the P0850 code I found out that the neutral position switch wasn't connected. You can locate it here:
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...-location.html
Plugging it back in, wiping codes and it was all good.
For the P0850 code I found out that the neutral position switch wasn't connected. You can locate it here:
https://my350z.com/forum/2003-2009-n...-location.html
Plugging it back in, wiping codes and it was all good.
Trending Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
George's350z
Maintenance & Repair
15
10-22-2015 03:19 AM
HipHop615
Brakes
0
10-18-2015 04:23 PM