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Old 12-08-2015, 09:34 AM
  #21  
BigBlue
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I got the SB 19 lb. Steel flywheel, which is approx. 10 lbs lighter than stock and I'd highly recommend it. Yeah, go with the above mentioned upgraded csc/master cylinders too, mine are the zspeed/willwood.

Last edited by BigBlue; 12-08-2015 at 09:40 AM.
Old 12-08-2015, 02:07 PM
  #22  
MicVelo
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Originally Posted by turboed350z
No one talks about crank hp. Its all about wheel hp and a light fly helps to see higher WHEEL hp. Counts as a gain haha.

I have mix feeling with mine. I like how responsive it is. But i also like the stock better. Its a love hate thing haha

OK, I'll bite because I'd truly like to know the answer.

How does a lighter flywheel give you more wheel horsepower?

A higher clamping force clutch, yes, and faster spool up for the engine; but how does a light flywheel help with MORE power transfer any better than, say, a stock or (closer to) "normal weight" flywheel?

Bueller? Bueller?

But before anyone answers, I'll admit that I've been wrong (or believed I was) before. Y'know, every 10-15 years it happens. So when that happens, I did what I always do.... turn to the all knowing Googley.

Here's something it told me:

http://www.howrah.org/flywheel.html

In this, it shows validity to both sides of the argument. That is, freer revving for sure and I would surmise, in doing so it allows for the additional available power to be transferred to the wheels. In that sense, I agree with everyone about the "OK-ness" of a lightened flywheel.

However, it also talks about what I brought up in my original post on this; that the loss of momentum from reduced rotational mass can produce driveability issues on the street and highway where 90+% of my driving is so in that sense, I wasn't entirely incorrect and that my previous experience with such is validated - from a purely scientific POV at least.

But again, I'll say it here.... it's not that I'm disagreeing with the practical experience of the collective; rather, I'm biased based on both theory and my own experience with a lightened flywheel BUT that I'm willing to give it a try so that I can have the first hand experience on the Z33 platform.

Bottom line: I don't think anyone's wrong here; still feel like the "opposing view" as it were, should be brought forth to present facts from both sides of the issue and helping everyone make an informed - if not better - choice for their application.

Mic

PS I couldn't be wrong.... the last time was only 9 years ago so I'm not due for another year at least.
Old 12-08-2015, 02:27 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
OK, I'll bite because I'd truly like to know the answer.

How does a lighter flywheel give you more wheel horsepower?

A higher clamping force clutch, yes, and faster spool up for the engine; but how does a light flywheel help with MORE power transfer any better than, say, a stock or (closer to) "normal weight" flywheel?

Bueller? Bueller?

But before anyone answers, I'll admit that I've been wrong (or believed I was) before. Y'know, every 10-15 years it happens. So when that happens, I did what I always do.... turn to the all knowing Googley.

Here's something it told me:

http://www.howrah.org/flywheel.html

In this, it shows validity to both sides of the argument. That is, freer revving for sure and I would surmise, in doing so it allows for the additional available power to be transferred to the wheels. In that sense, I agree with everyone about the "OK-ness" of a lightened flywheel.

However, it also talks about what I brought up in my original post on this; that the loss of momentum from reduced rotational mass can produce driveability issues on the street and highway where 90+% of my driving is so in that sense, I wasn't entirely incorrect and that my previous experience with such is validated - from a purely scientific POV at least.

But again, I'll say it here.... it's not that I'm disagreeing with the practical experience of the collective; rather, I'm biased based on both theory and my own experience with a lightened flywheel BUT that I'm willing to give it a try so that I can have the first hand experience on the Z33 platform.

Bottom line: I don't think anyone's wrong here; still feel like the "opposing view" as it were, should be brought forth to present facts from both sides of the issue and helping everyone make an informed - if not better - choice for their application.

Mic

PS I couldn't be wrong.... the last time was only 9 years ago so I'm not due for another year at least.
Rotational mass mic. Like the article said, "So you see, this is the reason why a lightweight flywheel car will walk away from a heavy flywheel car every time"

Im not saying, omg everyone must run a light weight fly wheels or youre all noobs. Im just saying, i like mind, and it does help you see more power to the wheels. Not to mention, better engine response, and down shifting actually slows the car down lol.

I like mond, i also hate it. Its a love hate thing. But i dont daily my 350 either so its more love than it is hate haha
Old 12-08-2015, 02:42 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by turboed350z
Rotational mass mic. Like the article said, "So you see, this is the reason why a lightweight flywheel car will walk away from a heavy flywheel car every time"

Im not saying, omg everyone must run a light weight fly wheels or youre all noobs. Im just saying, i like mind, and it does help you see more power to the wheels. Not to mention, better engine response, and down shifting actually slows the car down lol.

I like mond, i also hate it. Its a love hate thing. But i dont daily my 350 either so its more love than it is hate haha
No, I get all that! Just pointing out the POTENTIAL tradeoffs for the 90% of the time one is NOT trying to walk away from anybody.

It's all about driveability that *I* won't trade off (or chance trading off) for the sake of that 10% I'm running in the hills. (And besides, said running doesn't need less flywheel as I'm not running the car anywhere near its potential when other cars and bikes are around!)

Trust me, I've driven/owned enough unruly cars.... ask me sometime about my Nova with gear drive, waaaaay toooooo muuuuuch cam and completely locked 5.13 rear diff just cuz I bracket raced the car in Fremont on Wednesday nights. Driving to school was a nightmare.
Old 12-08-2015, 03:16 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
No, I get all that! Just pointing out the POTENTIAL tradeoffs for the 90% of the time one is NOT trying to walk away from anybody.
Shouldve bough a prius....

Hahanim just picking. Definitely has trade offs, but thats 90% of the things we do to our cars. At the end of the day, its whether the owner think its worth it or not. Everyone is dofferent, and for me, its worth it. Thats why i say its a love hate thing.

I feel if it was a canyon only car, youd love it. But since is not, its still fun until youre stuck in traffic haha
Old 12-08-2015, 03:32 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by turboed350z
Shouldve bough a prius....
Ahem, too late....



Already got its big bro.
Old 12-08-2015, 07:25 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by MicVelo
However, it also talks about what I brought up in my original post on this; that the loss of momentum from reduced rotational mass can produce driveability issues on the street and highway where 90+% of my driving is so in that sense...

But again, I'll say it here.... it's not that I'm disagreeing with the practical experience of the collective; rather, I'm biased based on both theory and my own experience with a lightened flywheel BUT that I'm willing to give it a try so that I can have the first hand experience on the Z33 platform.
So we can be specific, speaking of the JWT 14lbs alum flywheel with the JWT organic OEM style clutch....in terms of driveability drawbacks, the only significant worth mentioning is an increased sensitivity to momentum changes, particularly at low speeds, perceived as a jerkiness during acceleration or deceleration. If youve been in the pits before you know the characteristic sound I am talking about...cool points for sure. Really not an issue if you are driving smoothly and not lugging it around.

Yes there is a slight increase in sensitivity when starting from a standstill, but it is very minor...After installing the JWT I remember the first start being rather disappointing. It felt pretty much OEM to me. Made me instantly wish I went Tilton combo (now the Aasco/Tilton combo), and that was when I still DDd it to boot.

Keep im mind that aside from dropping mass and diameter in the clutch and flywheel (eg. the Aasco/Tilton), it is the pressure plate and clutch disc style that are the main determinates of driveability. Not flywheel mass.

That, plus the chatter is a low price to pay for the improvement in throttle responsiveness and shifting that are the main benefits of such a mod.
Old 12-08-2015, 09:08 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by guitman32
So we can be specific, speaking of the JWT 14lbs alum flywheel with the JWT organic OEM style clutch....in terms of driveability drawbacks, the only significant worth mentioning is an increased sensitivity to momentum changes, particularly at low speeds, perceived as a jerkiness during acceleration or deceleration. If youve been in the pits before you know the characteristic sound I am talking about...cool points for sure. Really not an issue if you are driving smoothly and not lugging it around.

Yes there is a slight increase in sensitivity when starting from a standstill, but it is very minor...After installing the JWT I remember the first start being rather disappointing. It felt pretty much OEM to me. Made me instantly wish I went Tilton combo (now the Aasco/Tilton combo), and that was when I still DDd it to boot.

Keep im mind that aside from dropping mass and diameter in the clutch and flywheel (eg. the Aasco/Tilton), it is the pressure plate and clutch disc style that are the main determinates of driveability. Not flywheel mass.

That, plus the chatter is a low price to pay for the improvement in throttle responsiveness and shifting that are the main benefits of such a mod.
OK brother, you got me hooked. When Z33 Oh Three needs a clutch, I'll go with the JWT Lightweight Combo. I'll report back in a few years. Laff. Seriously, it'll be a while.

But it all sounds good to me.

Mic
Old 12-09-2015, 06:44 AM
  #29  
turboed350z
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Originally Posted by guitman32
So we can be specific, speaking of the JWT 14lbs alum flywheel with the JWT organic OEM style clutch....in terms of driveability drawbacks, the only significant worth mentioning is an increased sensitivity to momentum changes, particularly at low speeds, perceived as a jerkiness during acceleration or deceleration. If youve been in the pits before you know the characteristic sound I am talking about...cool points for sure. Really not an issue if you are driving smoothly and not lugging it around.

Yes there is a slight increase in sensitivity when starting from a standstill, but it is very minor...After installing the JWT I remember the first start being rather disappointing. It felt pretty much OEM to me. Made me instantly wish I went Tilton combo (now the Aasco/Tilton combo), and that was when I still DDd it to boot.

Keep im mind that aside from dropping mass and diameter in the clutch and flywheel (eg. the Aasco/Tilton), it is the pressure plate and clutch disc style that are the main determinates of driveability. Not flywheel mass.

That, plus the chatter is a low price to pay for the improvement in throttle responsiveness and shifting that are the main benefits of such a mod.

I know exactly what you mean with the whole jerking thing. I find that my car only jerks when i get off/on the gas in lower rpm. Solve it by engine braking every chance i get haha
Old 12-10-2015, 06:06 PM
  #30  
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If it's your daily and you do city driving stay oem or above 20 lbs like with the Nismo flywheel.

If your building a race car or think your building one, get a lightweight flywheel like JWT. It will sound broken but does give better performance gains.

I do daily city driving which keeps me in nuetral a good part of my day so chatter is something I definitely needed to consider.

Last edited by SoCal_VQ; 12-10-2015 at 06:09 PM.
Old 12-20-2015, 08:01 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by turboed350z
I know exactly what you mean with the whole jerking thing. I find that my car only jerks when i get off/on the gas in lower rpm. Solve it by engine braking every chance i get haha
Nice. And when you have solid driveline bushings it makes it even more jerky.
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