Hey fellows, I put a 2006 (non rev-up) motor from a g35 in my 350z to replace the 2003 that I broke. In the process i put on 370 headers and test pipes and a plenum spacer. The car will turn over and run but I am getting misfires on what sounds like one cylinder that appears to be on the passenger side that get progressively worse when I let it run. I am getting smoke off the pass header when i try to run the car which is why i think its this cylinder. i replaced the 3 spark plugs and 2 of the coilpacks, i reused the 350z coilpacks on the other 4 cylndrs. I wont run once it starts misfiring, and it starts misfiring after a few cycles of the motor and the motor does not sound tuned right (it sounds healthy though.) The oil pressure sender is different from the two engines so I am going to put the 350z one on and hook it up (right now its the only unhooked sensor). I don't know why a pressure sensor would cause a timing issue. I am also going to switch cam angle sensor from the old engine over. I can't read the car with my pocket scanner, I think the car has been tuned by Z1 (Georgia local) by the previous owner. Does the 350z need to have its timing set with a timing light or something that I'm missing here? shouldn't the same engine be plug and play? thanks in advance.

 

Ok i just put the old cam angle sensors on and about to exchange the oil pressure sensor

 

Welcome- that's a pretty complex bunch of questions for your first post. First, how many miles were on the VQ35DE you installed in your Z? Did you have any history on it? Any chance you inherited these running problems?

 

60k from a g35 totaled out with quarter panel damage, was told it was pulled from a running car. I know that my problem isn't the easiest because I cannot connect with my scanner to the ecu, that isn't saying it cannot be done with another tool. I have had trouble with my scanner and ecu's that have been flashed in other vehicles, which is why I thought the previous owner had modded the car and tuned the ecu and put the parts back to stock and left the ecu alone. there is evidence that the car had suspension mods and a single exhaust with test pipes judging from the single carbon burn mark on the rear bumper. is there a chance that i will need a 2006 ecu? I am going to rent a compression tester today if any stores are open. Im going to be pretty mad if I bought another motor making no compression in one cylndr I was told it was comp tested before it was pulled.


ps. sorry to ramble im not usually the "Help I can't figure this **** out" guy, which is why its my first post.

 

Pull the valve cover off of the bank that is mis firing.

Look at the cam lobes, and measure the valve lash on both intake, and exhaust so you can rule that out.

What did the spark plug look like in the suspected cylinder compared with the other plugs?

AND, please break up your posts with a space between sentences here, and there, as it make reading your questions much easier.

 

ok sorry for the jumbles, I was just trying to get all the info I had available out there

Spark plugs, minimal carbon buildup all around, I replaced all 6 before I installed the motor.

I swapped over everything timing related (vvt solenoids, cam angle sensors, crank sensor) from my old engine and pulled the oil pressure sensor off.

Compression test/ valve lash test, and installation of the op sensor will have to wait until tomorrow the sun is going down, my battery is dead and my assistant (brother) has the truck, and its cold.

Thanks guys, I'll make my posts easier to read

 

That was much better to understand, thanks.

Now about the plugs. Was the spark plug in the cylinder you suspected different in appearance vs the other plugs?

For example, if it was black, and sooty then it show the injector for that cylinder being a bit rich,

If it was very clean to light colored then its showing the the injector is lean, and might be clogged up/dirty, or even a blown head gasket.

If the plug was oily then it could either be a broken oil ring, bad oil seal in the valves, etc.

However, if it looked pretty much the same as the other plugs you pulled then there is something else causing the skip, like I mentioned before the lash. [I just repaired an 04 Honda that made trips to just about every shop in town, and it turned out to be that the valve lash was off on two cylinders].

My car is running rough with a brand new engine I built, and from doing some digging , and code reading its [code said the timing on bank 2 cam was over advancing] shows that there is something going on with the bank 2 VVT solenoid [it could also be the oil passage to/from the solenoid, but my engine was cleaned before I rebuilt it]....

 

thanks M-train

Tomorrow morning I am going to finish swapping the plugs and injectors over from my old engine to rule them out of potential problems

All of the plugs had a normal/moderate level of black burn or carbon buildup and were all the same as each other.

So tomorrow I will try starting the motor with all of the old sensors, solenoids, plugs and injectors that I'm taking from my engine with a bent valve in cyl 6. That will in theory rule out those as problem parts.

Sadly I was unable to put a wrench to the car today due to stuff and things.

 

I know how you feel. Cold weather is comming, well I guess it would be more accurate to say ITS HERE!

Nothing sucks quite as bad as banging your hand on something in 20° weather.

 

I moved all sensors, plugs and solenoids and still missing. So all that is left for me to do before I turn this thing over to the guys at Z1 is compression test and valve lash test.

I cannot get my scanner to read my car so I can't pull codes so I'm kinda f-d over there. I also really don't want to be starting and shutting off the engine if it keeps missing as well.

 

Just a shot in the dark....but the coil wires are VERY easy to get screwed up.

good luck.

 

are you sure it is not a revup? i thought that all 06's had them, unless it came from an automatic

http://forums.nicoclub.com/g35-350z-...s-t327050.html

 

eZg, tried it, good thoughts though.

travlee, I am sure its not a revup, so I guess that i have an automatic engine, I only have vvt on my intake cams.

 

So I am assuming that I do have an automatic motor, is there anything different about the AT engine that I need to be aware of? Cams, timing?


I used to have a 240sx that I put an rb25det from an automatic car in. I ran that car with a manual trans and ecu no problem.

 

Get a test plug from auto parts store. Its looks like a spark plug with a clip on the side of it. You can just pull the wire off the plug and push in the test plug and hold or clip it to the body(Ground) It will show your spark. If there is not spark then that is your problem on that wire or chase it back to the source. here is a pic below of what it looks like.

 

I have a really crappy plug tester that I confirmed spark on all ignition coils on.

I am going to mark each exhaust runner with a grease pencil, run the car until the grease begins to melt (will not take long at all) and see which cylinder is not firing. Its an old school trick my boss told me about.

 

any luck with grease markings??

 

Have not done grease markings yet. Tried hooking my bosses scanner to the car. Not able to read.

I am taking the car into my friends shop on Saturday and were going to use his snap-on scanner. Its either a veris or modis.

If the snap on scanner doesn't work I'm down to the grease pencil.

If the grease pencil fails I'm SOL. and the car goes to Z1. Their an hour away and I really don't want to tow.

 

Pull the valve cover off of the bank that is mis firing.

 

The car is at Z1, I should have an answer back this week on wtf is happening.