Pain in the butthole, let me just say that first. Even using the methods in the awesome threads posted around here.
So here's one of my concerns: I bought this pumpkin off ebay from a wrecked G37 with 116,000 miles on it. Diff fluid was still in it, and it was thick brown/black when I drained it. Plug was all gunked up as well. So there's that. The parts where the axles and driveshaft bolt up didnt move as well as my removed one (both lsd's.)

Got it all in, with the bushings and new synthetic fluid. Car is much more responsive now and rpms didnt change too much going from 3.35 to 3.69 (Maybe 150 higher) Speedo changed maybe 3mph as well. again not a big deal.

Here's the kicker: Higher speeds in a turn ( like an interchange) car will engage the lsd and it wont disengage until a few seconds after I straighten it out. Is this common with more solid type bushings? Or is it the diff?

Also, with the whiteline, I reinstalled the brass discs on the bottom side of the ears on the diff, was I supposed to with the Whitelines?
Instructions didnt say either way, but not installing any discs wouldnt work due to the internal diameter being too big for the bolt head.

Advice/pep talks much appreciated.
Thanks

 

How are you feeling it "engage" and "disengage?" Describe it.

With the OEM viscous you should hardly be perceiving a lockup effect at all, they are usually that mild.

Compared to a clutch type unit where if adjusted aggressively you can literally feel and hear it pop open when you roll off the throttle mid corner, and obviously the throttle steer effect is greatly amplified with a clutch type unit also.

Yes you reuse the OEM bushing washers with the whiteline kit.

 

why would your speedometer change?

I have the Whiteline kit with a VLSD and 4.08 gears..no issues. I don't recall anything with regards to the brass discs

 

RPM should be closer to a 400 rpm different in any gear. The speedo, unless you changed to a different tire size, nothing will change

 

For me not a 400 rpm difference, but definitely a difference. At 80 mph cruise before install, I was at 2800, After install closer to 3k.

Speedo just might be my phone app being off. Its literally too small to make a difference. But I tested it before and after so I just threw it up in the thread.

I installed the two brass discs, but just found a video and a thread where they both used all the discs and top and bottom including the rubber one. Ill get those on there this week.


When it engages, it seemed to lock the wheels lightly, I felt it slow (with no go) almost like my alternator was going out. When the slip light finally went out, was back to normal.

I did take it to a parking lot to do some figure 8's and high speed reverse runs to loosen it up a little. Didnt lock up at all, but definitely felt more "stiff" Ill have to take out on the freeway and see if there's any difference.

 

You can not feel the diff actions on a VLSD

 

Maybe shouldn't , but I'm pretty sure I do.

 

If your slip light is coming on, try turning off VDC. You are just spinning the tires causing it to kick in.

 

I'm 100% you don't

 

If your slip light is turning on they all you are doing is spinning the tires. You aren't feeling the VLSD "lock ", hint they don't lock, you are just feeling the traction control cutting power to keep you from sliding off the road.

 

Good deal, I appreciate the responses. Thanks!

 

I dont have the VDC button, only the Trac Off button. Im assuming that will do the trick?

 

Same thing. It's electrical and cuts throttle