doc_sus

I am not familiar with the specs when it comes to a scanner, or what they mean. Could someone make sense of this for me?

It has a slight rattle to the car and will maintain idle at around 625rpm. A few times it has pulsed the RPM on its own going form 600's to 800's up and down. Also, I have noticed that when idling, if given gas to 2k, 3k, 4k, 5k, on its way down, and if done enough, it will choke and shut off as the rpm drops around 100's before stabilizing at 600's.

I have changed all of the plugs, and looked over each coil to be sure its working fine (did so by disconnecting them while the vehicle is on, looking for differences, which were noted with them unplugged).

There are no upgrades or mods to the engine, which has around 50k.

I managed to rent a beefier scanner from autozone, and have included a link to the readouts.

Any tips, or pointed would be greatly appreciated as its been a headache for too long and dont want to take it to a shop.

Thanks!

https://goo.gl/photos/zR4VYMA6D9NhaUho6

ninevoltz

I don't think that MAF sensor reading is right, it should be higher if I'm not mistaken. Service manual says it should be 2.0 - 6.0 g·m/s at idle (0.3-0.8 lb/s). Give it some throttle and see if the MAF reading jumps up, if not, I'd suspect that is the problem.

doc_sus

Thank you ninevoltz, I will check that this weekend. any suggestions for the other trims? Everything look okay on both bank 1 and bank 2? I have done the relearns as well prior to the video. Additionally, its overheating in about 5 minutes of driving, any tips or ideas as what to check and what may be causing this to happen?

Thank you again!

ninevoltz

I see from an earlier thread that you replaced the engine on this car, you need to burp the cooling system to get air pockets out, your water pump can't pump air. Here are a couple of readings from my car, that I recorded a while ago (running normal):

MIL STATUS Off
ABSLT TPS(%) 0.8
ENG SPEED(RPM) 650
CALC LOAD(%) 21.6
MAF(LB/M) 0.44
COOLANT(°F) 178
IAT(°F) 99
IGN ADV(°) 14.0
ST FTRM1(%) -3.1
ST FTRM2(%) -3.9
LT FTRM1(%) -6.3
LT FTRM2(%) -10.2
VEH SPEED(MPH) 0
FUEL SYS 1 CLSD
FUEL SYS 2 CLSD
O2S11(V) 0.660
ST FTRM11(%) -5.5
O2S12(V) 0.820
O2S21(V) 0.700
ST FTRM21(%) -5.5
O2S22(V) 0.180
MIL DIST(mi) 0
OBD2 STAT CA

MIL STATUS Off
ABSLT TPS(%) 3.1
ENG SPEED(RPM) 1913
CALC LOAD(%) 18.8
MAF(LB/M) 1.24
COOLANT(°F) 178
IAT(°F) 108
IGN ADV(°) 41.0
ST FTRM1(%) -0.8
ST FTRM2(%) 0.8
LT FTRM1(%) -8.6
LT FTRM2(%) -9.4
VEH SPEED(MPH) 0
FUEL SYS 1 CLSD
FUEL SYS 2 CLSD
O2S11(V) 0.110
ST FTRM11(%) -3.1
O2S12(V) 0.460
O2S21(V) 0.800
ST FTRM21(%) -4.7
O2S22(V) 0.830
MIL DIST(mi) 0
OBD2 STAT CA

doc_sus

Thank you once again Ninevoltz, I will type out my readings and compare them to yours. Its been a rollercoaster from before the swap. I was hoping that may be the issue with overheating, but will go back and reburp the system.

At some point this weekend, I will rent the scanner and see what I can come up with in regards to the MAF and overall readings/comparison and go from there.

Thanks again and hope you have a great memorial weekend! Im hoping to finally get her back to 100%

doc_sus

In the meantime, here are my averages from the video ( of the values that changed) and Ive highlighted the differences. The MAF reading is the same as yours, but I will still check it with the scanner while pressing the throttle.



my averages compared to ninevoltz normal readings

ninevoltz

Looks like a lean condition from the positive fuel trim readings. Possibly a vacuum leak? I would get someone to put a smoke machine on it and see if you have a leak somewhere.

doc_sus

Here is a better recording of the live feed, as I was unable to figure out how to record and upload the data from the scanner. I apologize if this isnt helpful, if there is a better way for me to record or provide a live feed.

Ninevoltz, thanks for the tips again! I had looked and captured the MAF sensor and it does fluctuate in reading as the RPM changes.





The codes have changed from P0300 multiple cylinder misfire to P0302 for cylinder 2 misfire. I went ahead and reset the code and swapped the #2 and #5 cylinder coil pack. After some time, the engine light was back on and with the same, P0302 code.

I had purchased starting fluid and went around the plenum and the joining areas spraying lightly while at idle and when the engine wasn't too hot and did not come across any vacuum leaks. I will look into renting or using a smoke machine for a safer and more accurate, and assuming easier way, of finding a vacuum leak. Something I did come across was another video where an individual had a P0302 and it turned out to be a vacuum leak due to ac delco plenum gasket. I also have a gasket set that was purchased from Autozone. Are these gasket sets notorious for being faulty and not creating a proper seal? And if so, what gasket kit should I go with?

Thanks again!



The scan tool I had rented from Autozone.

ninevoltz

Do you have a compression tester? I would run a compression test on cylinder 2 to make sure you don't have a valve problem. Do you know if the engine was running ok before the swap? You don't maybe have the flex plate a few degrees off, or missing/damaged teeth on the signal plate?

doc_sus

I have checked the compression and these are my findings



using a harbor freight compression gauge

**this was done with a harbor freight gauge, probably the reason for being such low values?

I had purchased the engine from out of state and it was pulled from a running vehicle. The seller said there were no issues with the engine and had ~50K.

For the flexplate, I had it installed wrong the first time which led to it turning over but not firing up. Upon removal of trans and inspection, it indeed was 180 degrees off, The markings on the back of the engine and on the flexplate were properly matched up. I could be wrong, but I dont think the flexplate can be installed a few degrees off when the two markings are matched up. Can anyone confirm this or know how to be check if it is a few degrees off without removing the trans?

The flexplate came off the old engine and there was no damage that I saw. It was running just fine before being transferred over to the "new" engine.

I had swapped the coils previously and the problem stayed at #2. I had also tried a different coil with a spark plug installed to check for spark while the car was running to rule out any electrical issues at that plug, everything checked out okay.

My next step is to check the injector on cylinder 2, maybe that is clogged, stuck open or something of the sort. Any other suggestions? Since I will have it apart, I will also try a leak down test on the cylinder to see if there is a leak into the coolant, exhaust, intake, or oil.

Thanks again ninevoltz and everyone else!

doc_sus

Ive checked again with another compression tester and got values that were higher

1 140
2 140
3 145
4 112 (What could cause the drastic change when the vehicle was not driven inbetween?!)
5 140
6 140

Any ideas what I could check or do for the issues I am having? Thanks!