Rough Idle and dies
Rough Idle and dies
Hey guys, I'm stumped and really need some pointers on what I should look out for. It is not throwing ANY codes!!!! I am checking using Osiris.
2005 VQ35DE non-revup
Vortech V2
Custom Fuel return system with custom rails
Aeromotive 340LP Fuel Pump
Aeromotive FPR
ID1050x (BRAND NEW)
UPREV GT MAF
JWT LW Flywheel and ACT 6 Puck Clutch
Yes I have a base tune.
Symptoms:
*Very low and rough idle...car starts perfectly. revs to 2k then drops to 1k and then feels like it's gasping for air/fuel and then just dies.
*Sometimes it will stay idling, but idle fluctuates and backfires/misfires A LOT (and loud) (Averages -16 in/Hg)
*pressing the gas pedal (even to the floor) will raise the RPM a little, and just starts sputtering (cannot even rev past 2k). It feels like I am not getting enough gas when I depress the pedal.
I initially thought it was a fuel problem. However my pump does pressurize, and at idle the needle is moving so fast between 45-48 PSI it's like a blur.
The injectors are brand new.
So I moved onto spark.
All spark plugs are new (LFR6A 1 step colder coppers) I checked gapped all of them to .035. I have a spare set of coil packs, swapped it in. Problem still persists.
I have checked voltage and ground for both injector and coil pack plugs and harnesses.
Really stumped and don't know how to proceed from here.
Tried logging it with Osiris. And found out Bank 1 is very lean from the O2 sensor.
Bank 1 goes to like 20+ while Bank 2 will usually stay at around 14.
If it's a vacuum leak how can it be making one bank lean?
Car was running perfectly and N/A before I put all of this on.
Really stumped and could use some help.
VIDS (Ignore belt squeal I have fixed that now)
Dying Startup:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lY...GLDPbGL-9vgvu5
Revving/Idling:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_C...AvzT25GJBLY7kB
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vB...jGrSTODKzTpMMV
Please help :-(
2005 VQ35DE non-revup
Vortech V2
Custom Fuel return system with custom rails
Aeromotive 340LP Fuel Pump
Aeromotive FPR
ID1050x (BRAND NEW)
UPREV GT MAF
JWT LW Flywheel and ACT 6 Puck Clutch
Yes I have a base tune.
Symptoms:
*Very low and rough idle...car starts perfectly. revs to 2k then drops to 1k and then feels like it's gasping for air/fuel and then just dies.
*Sometimes it will stay idling, but idle fluctuates and backfires/misfires A LOT (and loud) (Averages -16 in/Hg)
*pressing the gas pedal (even to the floor) will raise the RPM a little, and just starts sputtering (cannot even rev past 2k). It feels like I am not getting enough gas when I depress the pedal.
I initially thought it was a fuel problem. However my pump does pressurize, and at idle the needle is moving so fast between 45-48 PSI it's like a blur.
The injectors are brand new.
So I moved onto spark.
All spark plugs are new (LFR6A 1 step colder coppers) I checked gapped all of them to .035. I have a spare set of coil packs, swapped it in. Problem still persists.
I have checked voltage and ground for both injector and coil pack plugs and harnesses.
Really stumped and don't know how to proceed from here.
Tried logging it with Osiris. And found out Bank 1 is very lean from the O2 sensor.
Bank 1 goes to like 20+ while Bank 2 will usually stay at around 14.
If it's a vacuum leak how can it be making one bank lean?
Car was running perfectly and N/A before I put all of this on.
Really stumped and could use some help.
VIDS (Ignore belt squeal I have fixed that now)
Dying Startup:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1lY...GLDPbGL-9vgvu5
Revving/Idling:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1_C...AvzT25GJBLY7kB
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1vB...jGrSTODKzTpMMV
Please help :-(
did you unplug o2 sensors and possibly mix them up?
Can you increase fuel pressure to 52psi? I believe 52 is what OEM is?
I'm not too smart on Uprev but is your intake dimensioning and/or is the new MAF calibrated correctly?
Have you reset your TB position?
I run a haltech and I had to drill a 3/16" hole in my TB/butterfly valve to have it idle correctly ... I dont know if the Uprev guys need to do this to have it idle correctly or not??
would the cam position and crank position sensors have negative influence on the idle if they were going/gone out?
Can you increase fuel pressure to 52psi? I believe 52 is what OEM is?
I'm not too smart on Uprev but is your intake dimensioning and/or is the new MAF calibrated correctly?
Have you reset your TB position?
I run a haltech and I had to drill a 3/16" hole in my TB/butterfly valve to have it idle correctly ... I dont know if the Uprev guys need to do this to have it idle correctly or not??
would the cam position and crank position sensors have negative influence on the idle if they were going/gone out?
O2 sensors have not been switched. I swapped them over one at a time when I installed headers.
The thing is i’m not sure if it’s an idle problem that’s causing my revs to bog
Or it’s a fuel issue causing my idle to be rough.
I don’t understand what could cause my revving to bog like this if injectors and fuel pump are all working with no leaks.
I have done the TB reset and disconnected the negative for the reset too.
I have a base tune for my setup. Im not sure what the specs for the UpRev GT MAF should be but according
to the logs it seems like it scales accordingly according to my RPM
The thing is i’m not sure if it’s an idle problem that’s causing my revs to bog
Or it’s a fuel issue causing my idle to be rough.
I don’t understand what could cause my revving to bog like this if injectors and fuel pump are all working with no leaks.
I have done the TB reset and disconnected the negative for the reset too.
I have a base tune for my setup. Im not sure what the specs for the UpRev GT MAF should be but according
to the logs it seems like it scales accordingly according to my RPM
Last edited by rottingcat; Jun 23, 2018 at 11:26 PM.
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From: South Carolina
Symptoms:
*Very low and rough idle...car starts perfectly. revs to 2k then drops to 1k and then feels like it's gasping for air/fuel and then just dies.
*Sometimes it will stay idling, but idle fluctuates and backfires/misfires A LOT (and loud) (Averages -16 in/Hg)
*pressing the gas pedal (even to the floor) will raise the RPM a little, and just starts sputtering (cannot even rev past 2k). It feels like I am not getting enough gas when I depress the pedal.
I initially thought it was a fuel problem. However my pump does pressurize, and at idle the needle is moving so fast between 45-48 PSI it's like a blur.
The injectors are brand new.
So I moved onto spark.
All spark plugs are new (LFR6A 1 step colder coppers) I checked gapped all of them to .035. I have a spare set of coil packs, swapped it in. Problem still persists.
I have checked voltage and ground for both injector and coil pack plugs and harnesses.
*Very low and rough idle...car starts perfectly. revs to 2k then drops to 1k and then feels like it's gasping for air/fuel and then just dies.
*Sometimes it will stay idling, but idle fluctuates and backfires/misfires A LOT (and loud) (Averages -16 in/Hg)
*pressing the gas pedal (even to the floor) will raise the RPM a little, and just starts sputtering (cannot even rev past 2k). It feels like I am not getting enough gas when I depress the pedal.
I initially thought it was a fuel problem. However my pump does pressurize, and at idle the needle is moving so fast between 45-48 PSI it's like a blur.
The injectors are brand new.
So I moved onto spark.
All spark plugs are new (LFR6A 1 step colder coppers) I checked gapped all of them to .035. I have a spare set of coil packs, swapped it in. Problem still persists.
I have checked voltage and ground for both injector and coil pack plugs and harnesses.
I Have the same issues myself but I had a P1065 come up twice. I have spark and I have fuel pressure. I sent off my injectors to get cleaned and flow matched just incase, even though they were all firing, they could have less than desirable spray pattern and/or poor atomization of the fuel. Not saying this is your issue, but this is what I am doing.
Check your gaskets, clamps/couplers, and intake manifold for leaks.
I would also raise your fuel pressure to 52psi as Bealljk suggested.
Good luck, please post what fixes it if you ever figure it out.
Last edited by BluestreamDE; Jun 26, 2018 at 10:50 AM.
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I Have the same issues myself but I had a P1065 come up twice. I have spark and I have fuel pressure. I sent off my injectors to get cleaned and flow matched just incase, even though they were all firing, they could have less than desirable spray pattern and/or poor atomization of the fuel. Not saying this is your issue, but this is what I am doing.
Check your gaskets, clamps/couplers, and intake manifold for leaks.
I would also raise your fuel pressure to 52psi as Bealljk suggested.
Good luck, please post what fixes it if you ever figure it out.
Check your gaskets, clamps/couplers, and intake manifold for leaks.
I would also raise your fuel pressure to 52psi as Bealljk suggested.
Good luck, please post what fixes it if you ever figure it out.
Going to take off the trans, since I did install JWT flywheel with an ACT 6 puck clutch. I highly doubt that it was installed incorrectly but I’m at a loss.
Going by my logs, my ignition timing is far too advanced. I have checked cam and crank sensors. Checked VVT solenoids (jump started them to make sure they work) and tested continuity all the way to the ECU.
Can any knowledgeable people chime in how ECU determines ignition timing?
Going by my logs, my ignition timing is far too advanced. I have checked cam and crank sensors. Checked VVT solenoids (jump started them to make sure they work) and tested continuity all the way to the ECU.
Can any knowledgeable people chime in how ECU determines ignition timing?
Was not the flywheel...
Im so sure that the problem is ignition timing my logs show that it is definitely too high.
We checked the timing at TDC on crank pulley flywheel and the camshaft all within spec.
I don’t think it can be the cam and crank sensors...Car starts up every time. All wires to sensors would set DTC instantly. Measured resistance of each sensor and they were all the same.
VVT - valves open when given power!!! Does not look clogged at all.
Car was running fine before install.
Head hurts. Don’t know what else to do.
Gonna try a brand new harness next maybe...or ECM...sigh
Im so sure that the problem is ignition timing my logs show that it is definitely too high.
We checked the timing at TDC on crank pulley flywheel and the camshaft all within spec.
I don’t think it can be the cam and crank sensors...Car starts up every time. All wires to sensors would set DTC instantly. Measured resistance of each sensor and they were all the same.
VVT - valves open when given power!!! Does not look clogged at all.
Car was running fine before install.
Head hurts. Don’t know what else to do.
Gonna try a brand new harness next maybe...or ECM...sigh
Try taking the car to an Osiris pro tuner.Where did you get your base tune from?
Ecu does control ignition timing through cam/crank sensors and knock sensor too iirc
When I installed my procharger on my Z it had a low/slightly rough idle idle.Once I got it tuned professionally my idle was raised and smoothed right out
Ecu does control ignition timing through cam/crank sensors and knock sensor too iirc
When I installed my procharger on my Z it had a low/slightly rough idle idle.Once I got it tuned professionally my idle was raised and smoothed right out
Last edited by NissanZcrazy; Jul 5, 2018 at 03:14 PM.
My base tune is from Sebastian at SpecialtyZ. My glaring problem is that I cannot rev pat 2.5k RPMS or so, it will just sputter and misfire and pop really hard when I let go.
Yeah I read that problem a lot when searching I actually traced back all wires back to ECU to double check if it’s an electrical problem. I still have yet to test for short to power.
Also forgot to mention.
Black Fuel/Oil mixture leaking at header and ART pipes and only on driver side (Bank2).
Was worried about compression so I checked compression and all numbers were within 10% averaging 160PSI dry
Will pull engine harness next week....
Black Fuel/Oil mixture leaking at header and ART pipes and only on driver side (Bank2).
Was worried about compression so I checked compression and all numbers were within 10% averaging 160PSI dry
Will pull engine harness next week....
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